On the Road Again -- Almost

What a busy week!!!! Lots of catching up to do and a quick trip to Stillwater where I visited Woodland Park Winery -- they'll be featured in my first Sunday in May Edmond Sun column. I've also spent the week trying to recover from my foodie trip to Fredericksburg, Texas. Fredericksburg was always fun but they have really kicked it up a notch in the culinary department. I went to two cooking classes, sampled cheese, wine and sausage, ate at some exciting restaurants and delved into one of my not-so-secret passions -- chocolate. Fredericksburg is the home of Quintessential Chocolates. Lecia Duke learned the secret of enrobing liquid in chocolate. I don't mean thickened liquid; I mean pure-dee liquid liquid, most of the alcoholic kind. My favorite was toffee liqueur in dark chocolate. The non-alcoholic black cherry was pretty yummy, too. Visit Lecia's store, Chocolat, on Main Street and check these amazing confections for yourself. I'm off to Albuquerque in the morning -- oh, the tempting Mexican food. If Fredericksburg was dangerous to my diet, Albuquerque could be disasterous. Wish me self-control.!
Photos: Before being enrobed in chocolate, the liquids are encased in a thin sugar shell, or zuckerkrust. In addition to making the liquid-filled chocolates, Lecia also creates other chocolate treats.

Flight of Fancy

Flying into the airstrip at Fredericksburg, Texas, is like flying back to the 1940s. Dick Estenson has created a little fantasy world with all the modern conveniences. No, that's not a hangar -- that's the Hangar Hotel. And next door is the Diner. Through the diner is a great conference space decorated with a 40s-style movie marquee and a mural of a plane landing. Entrances to two smaller meeting rooms are through quonset hut facades. In another part of the building is a nightclub that would have been right at home in the South Pacific -- they hold regular USO-type dances here. You don't have to fly in to enjoy the Hangar Hotel but what a great place to stay if you pilot a small plane. Or you can just sit in a rocking chair on the hotel's observation deck and watch the planes taking off and landing.

Cool Beans

When there's a gap in my google -- it's usually because I've been out of town. And I was. I just got back last night from a great five days in Fredericksburg, Texas. There's so much to write about but I have so much to catch up on! So just a quick note and a picture from Fredericksburg which inspired what's on my stove for tonight!

The Brown Palace

I've discovered an interesting reaction when I mention the Brown Palace to someone else who's stayed there. They immediately begin to smile. It's a secret code. To stay at the Brown Palace is to love it. By today's standards, the outside is unprepossessing. However, it must have caused jaws to drop when it was built in 1892. Henry Brown built it in a field he'd used for grazing his cows. He spent the unheard of sum of $1.6 million on the building and another $400,000 on the furnishings. Glowing golden Mexican onyx dominated the lobby which was crowned eight stories above with a glorious stained glass ceiling. Lacy cast iron panels topped with a brass railing trimmed each balcony. Arches around the mezzanine held bulbs with metal floral reflectors mounted on hand-painted panels. And guess what -- all that beauty remains. For 116 years the lobby of the Brown Palace has signaled an elegant welcome to its guests.

Tours of the hotel are given each Wednesday and Saturday at 2:00 and provide a great way to see the sights and hear the stories of the hotel. Don't miss the antique silver water fountains which provide water from the hotel's own artesian well 750 feet beneath the hotel. All the hotel's water comes from this source. Antique silver pieces are on display by the entrance to the Palace Arms, the hotel's premier dining room. Inside, you'll also find a small private dining area, the Independence Room where chef's tastings and private parties are held. The wallpaper, created in 1834 in Alsace-Lorraine, is the same paper that hangs in the Diplomatic Receiving Room at the White House.

Every president since Theodore Roosevelt -- with the exception of Calvin Coolidge -- has stayed here. The three presidential suites honor Roosevelt, Reagan and Eisenhower. The Eisenhower suite is the largest. The first lady, Mamie Eisenhower, grew up in Denver and had family here so the Eisenhowers visited Denver often and stayed for weeks at a time.

For the town that's about to host its second Democratic National Convention (the first was in 1908) I was feeling a distinct Republican theme here. I was, however, taken to the Gold Room, an intimate and elegant meeting space, which once served as the Oval Office for President Clinton. I didn't ask if he made use of the Churchill Room -- the hotel's cigar bar!

Tea Party

I just returned from Denver where I was a princess. It can happen to anyone staying at the Brown Palace Hotel. What a marvelous hotel -- one of America's great historic hostelries. My ultimate indulgence was the afternoon tea -- a 115-year tradition. Seated at a small marble-topped table in the lavish lobby, I pretended I was a Victorian lady (sans corset, thank you) as Catherine Rogers poured jasmine tea into my lovely Royal Doulton cup (shades of Hyacinth Bouquet!).

In the background, pianist John Kite provided a beautiful soundtrack of music from classical to romantic favorites from "Phantom of the Opera" and Rogers and Hammerstein (I'm not bothered by anachronisms in my fantasies). Next to my table, a group of girlfriends celebrated a birthday while at another table two young mothers enjoyed a relaxed moment.

This was my final memory of a memorable trip. I'm back in the real world -- not a princess here -- but it was fun while it lasted!

Photos: Tea included Devonshire cream and (clockwise around the plate from upper right) chicken salad with walnuts on honey wheat bread, watercress with tomato butter on brioche, sliced cucumbers with pesto sauce on sour dough, a nine-layer chocolate and mocha centennial cookie, a vanilla plum petit four, the Brown Palace's signature almond macaroon and, in the center, raspberry chocolate mousse tart and berry cheesecake.

Birthday party

A peek at a bit of the lobby -- John Kite at the piano.

Power of the Pen

I'm sure historians bemoan the use of email. Think of all the wonderful things we've learned about our ancestors from their letters. To our descendents, we won't even be a flash in the cybersphere! When I was at the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn, Michigan, I found the most marvelous letter. It was a fan letter to Henry Ford reading "Ford has got ever (sic) other car skinned and even if my business hasn't been strickly (sic) legal it don't hurt eny (sic and more sic) to tell you what a fine car you got in the V8." And as one to whom a fast getaway was important, Clyde Barrow knew what he was talking about!

The Henry Ford Museum is full of interesting items -- not just car history -- including the bus that made Rosa Parks famous (or visa versa), George Washington's camp bed and the chair Lincoln was sitting in when he was shot. If you're anywhere near this great museum, do not miss it.

Gracious Host

I get to stay at a lot of great hotels in my travels but every once in a while I find a place that really stands out. The Saint Paul Hotel is the newest name on that list. I arrived late at night, tired after a two-hour flight delay then two-hour flight and I was cold -- my usual winter complaint. I opened the door to my room (an Ambassador Suite) and the knots in my neck began to loosen.

The room was suffused with a warm glow -- peach taffeta draperies with elegant valances with peach, blue and gold stripes brought a summer feel to the room and kept the cold outside. A beautiful basket of fruit and cheese sat on the coffee table -- plump, juicy strawberries, grapes, apples, oranges and brie and crackers. The temperature was perfect, the furnishings plush and comfy and I was definitely a happy camper! French doors led to the bedroom where a massive four-poster, plush with a goose down duvet and pillows, promised a great night's sleep.

Before I could go to sleep, I had to play photographer with the night scene outside my windows. Below, twinkle lights covered the trees in Rice Park like dew-spangled spider webs. The castle-like Landmark Center was just to my right and in the distance, St. Paul Cathedral sat majestically on a small rise.

The rest of my experiences in the hotel -- touring some of the other rooms, hearing about the history, dining in both of the restaurants -- only confirmed my opinion. The Saint Paul Hotel is a very special place. I can always count on a great stay in one of the members of Historic Hotels of America -- this was one of the best!

Bummer

I picked up the business section of the paper this morning and -- RATS -- Expressjet has announced it is cancelling two of its Oklahoma City non-stop flights -- Austin and San Antonio. Apparently ridership was not adequate. I'm doing a series for Southwestern Publications on cities that can be reached from Oklahoma City by non-stop flights. Cancel those two! But most of all, I hate it that Expressjet won't be flying there. I LOVE Expressjet!!!! Expressjet is the closest you'll get to old-fashioned fun flying -- and they feed you.

Gold in Them Thar Hills

I'm working on an article about the Mother Lode country in California and I'm ready to pack up and go. With gold at over $970 an ounce, I think we're ready for a new gold rush. When I was in Sacramento last fall I toured a closed gold mine and was told that if the price rose high enough, the mine might reopen. California has a lot of environmental regulations that make the mining and processing very expensive. I'm writing about the area south and east of Sacramento -- around Sonora and Columbia. Going over pictures from my last trip, I found one of Linda Clark in her persona of Hard Luck Lin. At the time, she was a docent at Columbia State Historic Park. A lot of research went into creating her character. She got so involved with Lin that she's writing a book about her. Imagine -- a young girl in the California gold fields in the 1850s. It's an adventure I'm looking forward to reading.

Photo: Linda Clark a.k.a. Hard Luck Lin, "My clothes is clean but I ain't done my personals yet 'cause it ain't May!"

Nothin' Says Lovin'

My valentine and I were apart on the big day. I ate a chocolate in his honor. Not just any chocolate -- a Tenor's Temptation from Just Truffles in St. Paul. Chocolates here are an art form -- started almost as a joke. Kathleen O'Hehir-Johnson always enjoyed making candy. Working for Northwest Airlines two decades ago, she brought a platter of her truffles as her contribution to a company party. Stunned co-workers wanted more -- deluging her with orders. And Just Truffles was born. Her treats became so legendary that she was asked to create a truffle for dessert at a dinner for Luciano Pavarotti on one of his visits to the area. Working with his secretary, she determined that the perfect combination would include milk chocolate, coconut and Malibu rum enrobed in milk chocolate. She topped the creation with a decorative "P" for the maestro. She and husband Roger attended the concert and Kathleen was puzzled by the fact that the tenor seemed to be trying to show her something. The next day, Pavarotti and his entourage entered her store and his manager explained. Pavarotti had worn the band from the truffle box as a good luck charm at the concert! Luciano was not the only one enchanted by Kathleen's magical treats. Oprah included them in her Favorite Things. Not that she needs my endorsement -- but they're definitely one of my favorite things, too. I hope my husband appreciates that it's the thought that counts because there's no way that chocolate was going to make it back to Oklahoma City!

North for the Winter

Whoever thought it would be a good idea to go to Minneapolis and St. Paul in February? Well, actually, I did. I'm doing a series of articles for Edmond Monthly/Nichols Hills News/Norman Living/Northwest Style on cities that are a non-stop flight away from Oklahoma City. Since each city means a trip and I already have a busy trip schedule for spring, a two-fer seemed like a no-brainer. My complaint about the temperature -- I spent more time being too hot than too cold! It was 11 the night I arrived, a balmy 20 the next day then a slow slide down to 8 when I left. I really bundled up -- long johns and all. I often wear long johns here in Oklahoma in the winter -- have them on now -- and I'm perfectly comfortable. Well, let me tell you, those Minnesotans keep their buildings warm! It felt good to go outside! Actually, the trip WAS a good idea. I had a great time. Now I want to go back and see both towns in their summer greenery. More about the trip in the next couple of blogs.

Photos: The shot of St. Paul featuring the Landmark Center -- a turn-of-the-center courthouse turned venue for several small museums -- and the lovely Cathedral of St. Paul was taken from my window in the St. Paul Hotel. The skyline shot of Minneapolis was taken through a window at the Guthrie Theatre. The glass in the window was yellow. I color-corrected as much as I was able and I think I did fairly well, though the sky is still a bit green!

Last of the King Cake

The King Cake tradition of Mardi Gras really celebrates Epiphany. The shape of the cake represents the circuitous route taken by the Magi to find the baby Jesus. Paula Stevens of Delicious Donuts in Lake Charles prepared cakes for each of the journalists on our press trip. We got to ice and decorate the cakes which were then boxed and shipped to our homes. Mine got home before I did! I chose the pecan praline filling -- excellent choice -- but the other flavors including chocolate, Bavarian cream, and fruit looked equally tasty. Paula ships cakes all over the country. I'm pretty sure I'm going to continue the tradition next year. The cake was fabulous but now it's all gone. I found the little baby doll hidden in the cake. That means I get to host the next King Cake party. I know where I'm getting it!

Busy Day at the Birdbath

Cedar waxwings are among the world's most beautiful birds with their bands of yellow across the end of their tails, just a touch of bright red and their little black masks. I rarely see one around here, so I'm always excited at a sighting. They usually travel in groups so where there's one, there are often more. I spotted three on this birdbath by my front door and ran to get the camera. By the time I got back, they were gone but I was patient and was rewarded. And, in the meantime, I spotted a yellow-rumped warbler and a nuthatch. Did you know that birding is one of the fastest growing sports in America?

Guys Gone Wild

Now I've seen it -- the Courir or chicken run -- and the trick is to describe it! Apparently, it was quite common in French areas of Louisiana in the 1800s. Most towns gave it up -- it is a rowdy custom -- but a few either retained it or revived it. Elton is a revival town. Each town has its own rules. In Elton, the celebration starts in the country and moves toward town. Only men are allowed to participate. The group is led by the Capitaine and participants are called Mardi Gras. Many of the Mardi Gras are on horseback; the others run or ride on a flatbed. Rows and rows of fringe cover the costumes and capuchons. Beer is a major lubricant for the festivities which start at sunup. The group follows a set route, visiting several homes, begging for ingredients for a communal pot of gumbo. Riders dismount and all wait for the host to release a chicken which sets off a free-for-all as the Mardi Gras race to catch the chicken. I have to say I was rooting for the chickens -- but, though caught, the feathered victims didn't seem to be worse for wear. And though in the past, they would have wound up in the pot -- the gumbo was already in the works for this celebration, so the chickens will live to lay another day. It's traditional for the Mardi Gras to dance for the residents in thanks for the contributions. As the day goes on and the beer continues to flow, the celebration gets wilder. Included in the procession, a cajun band kept the beat going. The whole thing looked like the Cajun counterpart of the Bacchanalia!

Vendredi Gras

Pass the Pepcid! I'm full of boudin, cracklin's, gumbo, fried catfish, and king cake. It's all leading up to Mardi Gras which I'll celebrate in Lake Charles, Louisiana. I'm on a press trip and tonight we watched a cooking class on gumbo then made cone-shaped hats (called capuchons) and masks for tomorrow's Chicken Run in Elton.

Upside-down Geography

You won't be in Detroit very long before one of the locals tries to catch you with the city's favorite trivia question. "If you go south from Detroit, what country do you come to?" Okay, logic tells you that Detroit is still part of the United States and what's south of the U.S.? -- Mexico. Right answer -- except in Detroit -- where the correct answer is Canada. Check a good map.

Photo: Looking towards the southwest at the Detroit River, Detroit is on the right (north) and Windsor, Ontario, Canada, is on the left (south).

The Monastery

On our fall trip to England, we visited Gorton Monastery -- here's that story.

In 1861, three Franciscan priests (two from Belgium, one from Ireland) came to Gorton to serve the few Catholic families there. Catholics had been forbidden to openly practice their religion until 1829. Nearby Manchester was highly Protestant and anti-Catholic. By the time the group had grown to about 300 parishoners, the priests decided to build a church -- not just any church -- a real architectural poke in the eye to their Protestant neighbors.

Architect Edward Pugin was engaged to draw up plans for a massive, Gothic-style building situated on a north/south axis -- rather than the traditional east/west -- the better to be seen from Manchester.

The project would cost 8000 pounds -- money the parish didn't have. Other Franciscans donated 2000 pounds; another 1000 came from general donations. The 4000 pound labor would be taken care of by volunteer builders. The remainder came from begging. Brother Patrick, the talented Irish mason/builder monk begged a penny a brick. Bricks were scrounged from demolished buildings or made on the premises from local clay.

The parish flourished and grew to around 6000 congregants. It provided three schools, youth clubs, theatre and music groups, choirs, even brass bands. The church was the center of community activity.

The parish, however, was not a wealthy one. Surrounding homes and buildings became the target of redevelopment efforts in the 1970s. Residents were relocated as the area buildings were torn down. The members were scattered and the church suffered.

In 1989 the church closed and was sold to developers who stripped it for conversion to flats. This scheme failed and the building fell into receivership.

By 1993, the church and friary were totally abandoned and unprotected. Vandals destroyed altars and windows and stole anything of any value -- marble, even lead from the windows.

In 1996, Elaine Griffiths and her husband formed a group of volunteers to save the building. The building was already a Grade II listed building giving it some protection but, structurally, it was falling down on its own. Elaine made a case for the monastery to the World Monument Fund based on its being the work of Edward Pugin. In 1997, the WMF put it, along with the Taj Mahal and the Valley of the Kings, on its 100 Most Endangered Sites in the World list.

Through grants and fund raising, structural integrity has been restored and the building is again open to the public. Though not a church, nor owned by an ecclesiastical organization, the building itself exudes a sanctified air and areas are being reserved for private prayer or meditation.

From the outside, the building is something of a monstrosity -- like a wedding cake on a card table. Some parts are still in ruins and the whole thing seems to loom over the landscape. But the first reaction on entering the former sanctuary is an involuntary "ah."

The white walls and pointed, clear windows lead the eye to the dark, wooden ceiling almost 100 feet above the floor. Six pedestals on each side of the nave await the return of the statues of saints that once stood there. The statues were found in an art dealer's catalogue and purchased back for 25,000 pounds. The clerestory windows have been strategically placed so that, at certain times, the light falls directly on each statue.

In June, 2007, The Monastery opened as an events center hosting conferences, meetings, weddings and parties. Elaine Griffiths was awarded an MBE in the Queen's Birthday Honours List for her services to heritage.

There's more work to be done but we were awed by the tremendous effort that has brought this church back from little more than a rubble-filled shell of bricks.

Hot Dog!

Rereading my last two blogs -- I hope they don't sound whiny. Yes, I did fall on my face and, yes, my legs did ache after climbing down the hotel stairs -- but that was such a small part of my trip. I had a great time in Detroit -- lots of surprises. I'll be blogging more about some of them in the future. Today, I want to talk about food. I had some magnificent meals in Detroit -- one at Iridescence, Detroit's only Four-Diamond award-winning restaurant, located in the Motor City Hotel and the other at Wolfgang Puck's in the MGM Grand Hotel. And I had some fun meals that, though they don't qualify as gourmet fare, provided food for thought.

At the Michigan Cafe in the Henry Ford Museum, I was introduced to Faygo sodapop. Faygo has been making pop for over 100 years. They produce familiar flavors like cola, creme soda and grape and unusual ones like Rock & Rye. That was the one I tried. It was really good but all I can say to describe its taste is it tastes red! Two other Michigan favorites that I saw but didn't try were Better Made Potato Chips and bumpy cake. My guide pointed out the bumpy cake as we were leaving the restaurant. It's a rich, chocolate cake with a buttercream filling and rows of buttercream on top -- covered with a smooth, chocolate icing. Just one more reason to go back to Michigan.

The big mystery to me was being told that the definitive Detroit food was a Coney Island -- a hot dog topped with chili, chopped onions and mustard, served on a steamed bun. American Coney Island Inc., founded in 1917, in Detroit, has a legitimate claim to the invention of the coney as we know it. Because the founders of the company were Greek, it's become tradition to serve it with a Greek salad. I had a chance to try this meal (at a different chain) at the airport where I took this picture. Historically, I'd have preferred an American coney, but sure couldn't fault National Coney Island for their attempt.

What Goes Up

In 1924, Detroit's Book-Cadillac Hotel was the tallest hotel in the world and the tallest building in Detroit. Built in popular Italian Renaissance style, its decor leaned toward the more lavish Venetian manner. Famous for its dining areas and clubs, it was the hub of social activity for many years. It reigned for 60 years, though, in the later years, showed its age -- like a fading matinee idol whose collar and cuffs are frayed and whose tie is stained with food spots. The hotel closed its doors in 1984. Ornamental metal and chandeliers were stripped from the building and wood paneling and wallpapers suffered from water leaks and vandalism.

Twenty years later, plans for redevelopment included creating a 455-room luxury hotel topped with 67 upscale apartments. The $180 million project is scheduled to be completed in the fall of 2008.

"Should I take my camera?" I asked our host as we prepared to take a hard-hat tour of the work-in-progress.

"No," I was told. "There's not much to see yet."

We took the construction elevator up 30 floors to the roof where we got a bird's eye view of the city. And me without my camera!!!!!

Inside, we toured a $1.5 million, three-level apartment -- had to use lots of imagination since it was still at dry-wall stage. We walked down a floor to see a smaller unit, then down another few floors to see what would become hotel rooms.

And then came the bad news! We were not taking the elevator down. Yep, we walked down 60 flights (30 floors) of stairs. I wouldn't have thought I could do it but I didn't have a choice. What goes up.....and I did. But it took two days for the backs of my calves to recover.

Okies Hit Mo(o)town

One hundred and twenty longhorn steers from Oklahoma paraded through downtown Detroit to help introduce the new Dodge Ram truck last week. (Wouldn't sheep have been more appropriate?) It took four semis and three one-ton trucks hauling trailers to get the cattle, cowboys and horses over a thousand miles to their destination. Media outlets all featured shots of the cattle drive and coverage was extensive, if not always accurate. One paper wrote about the bulls (need a sex check?) and several were fascinated with the bored steer who decided to give the crowd a little X-rated entertainment. Still, it was good to see Oklahoma's Chain Ranch getting some great publicity.

This was just part of the hoopla surrounding the North American International Auto Show -- Detroit's biggest do. Over 700 vehicles -- both concept and in production -- vied for attention in the massive Cobo Center. I attended the black-tie, charity preview where ball gowns and jewels were de rigueur. The event was topped off with a rockin' Barenaked Ladies concert. I capped my evening by catching my toe on a rug seam and falling flat on my face. Falling down is a great way to be the center of attention -- but I don't recommend it!

Road Hazards

Yesterday it was 60 and sunny. Today was cloudy, then drizzly, then rainy and the thermometer dropped like the New Year's Eve ball. Will the roads freeze? Chances are good. It figures. I need to leave before sunrise for an early flight to Detroit. Keep your fingers crossed for me. If I get out of town, I'll be posting photos of some pretty elegant autos -- I'm headed for the North American International Auto Show.

High Rise Happiness

For a photographer, happiness is a great view. I think you'll agree, this late afternoon view of the Dallas skyline is pretty good. The only thing missing is the Reunion Tower. And there's a reason. I was looking out my window at the Hyatt Regency Dallas at Reunion! With a view like this I didn't need television. What a great stay. Our room was spacious and comfortable and the bed was fantastic. My husband, who rarely gets to travel with me, was on this trip (as my chauffeur) and now understands one of the reasons I love to travel. With a great bed like this, who wants to go home? A brochure describing the bed and decor elements available for purchase was enticing -- the price, which didn't include shipping, was daunting. I think I'll just keep traveling!

Sounds Like Fun

Just got this email and this sounds like a lot of fun, so I'm sharing it.
"It's the Year of the Rat!Help Tulsa ring in Chinese New Year 2008 (the Year of the Rat) with a spectacular celebration of dance, music, theater, and performing arts on Saturday, February 2, 2008 at 7:00 p.m. in the Van Trease Performing Arts Center, 81st Street & Highway 169. Traditional lion dancing, Kung Fu demonstrations, a fashion show, and much more will be presented by the Chinese American Association of Tulsa, Tulsa Community College, and dozens of talented participants at this year's performance. It will be the best show ever!
This is a fabulous cultural event suitable for the whole family. Come learn more about Chinese culture - with traditions dating back more than 5,000 years."
The event is free but seats are limited so arrive early.

Really Exclusive

You want to know what frustration is? Trying to follow those online driving directions. You know what's worse? Trying to follow those online driving directions to find someplace that is particular about who finds it. Being confused in Dallas traffic is not a good thing. We shot U-turns and turned quickly without signalling. We had finally pulled to the side of the street to call for help when the phone rang. It was our breakfast host who "talked us in" to the Mansion on Turtle Creek. What an elegant place! But don't look for a big sign. It's great for celebrities who are looking for a hideaway and a little anonymity, but tough on those of us who aren't "in the know." Frustration aside, the breakfast was wonderful. The juice of the day was watermelon-strawberry -- yum. This was followed by a Hazelnut Brioche French Toast. Think I'd like to start every day this way. Our table, tucked into a sunny alcove, overlooked the new veranda -- a charming space which must look magical at night with twinkling Mexican, punched-tin lanterns hanging from the branches of large trees. The restaurant is located in the what was originally a mansion and many of the decorative elements have been retained. I loved the ornately plastered ceilings and beautiful stained glass in the Chef's Room. After such a lovely start to my day, I felt like a celebrity!

What a Coincidence

I'm in Dallas and spent the afternoon touring museums at Fair Park. The Women's Museum here is fabulous -- hundreds of great exhibits on women of all ages, times and walks of life. Lo and behold, there was a poster just like the one on my previous blog. Pawnee Bill does Dallas!

Pawnee Bill

The Pawnee Bill Ranch and Museum were the subjects of my Sunday article in the Edmond Sun. At church I ran into a friend, Ed Berry, who lived in Pawnee as a young (very young, I'm sure) boy. "Pawnee Bill used to come into town in a big yellow car -- I think it was a Cord," he told me. "He would let the kids climb in and I got to honk the horn." How cool! (To read the article, go to www.edmondsun.com/features/local_story_005231926.html. )

Kenya

You know I generally write about travel and entertainment -- not politics. Our world, however, is a small one and it is our responsibility to be aware not only of the pleasant aspects of other countries but also of the travails. Jean Warner is an Oklahoma woman who has done significant work in Kenya. She is blogging extensively about the situation there. Please check her blog at www.oklahomawomen.blogspot.com for information on the political unrest in that country.

Return of a Grande Dame

Oklahomans welcomed the reopening of the Skirvin Hotel almost a year ago. For many years Oklahoma's finest hostelry, the hotel had been closed for nearly 20 years. I recently got my first glimpse at the Grande Dame. She may be even grander than she was before. The towering lobby is impressive and the rich, red draperies absolutely regal. My room was spacious and comfortable and the bedspread entertaining. Yep, I said bedspread. The fabric was custom made and has a history of the hotel written on it. I've read in bed for years -- this is the first time I've read the bed itself. The Red Piano Lounge is an afternoon hot spot and the Park Avenue Grill, a destination restaurant. The food was fabulous and the desserts excellent. As we often do on press trips, we ordered several desserts for the table and spoons all around. The big favorite for the photographers was the Red Piano, a chocolate creation filled with white chocolate mousse and fresh berries. It was just as good as it looks! This is the second Hilton re-do I've stayed in in the last couple of months. The other is the Hotel President, a Kansas City icon. Both the Skirvin and President fell victim to dwindling downtowns. The city centers of both towns are reinventing and revitalizing themselves and Hilton has done a magnificent job on both of these older properties.

Merry Christmas

The sun is coming up -- no clouds to temper its enthusiasm -- and the temperature is just above freezing. Just a note before I walk the dog and start the day's activities. Our holiday began last night with the traditional 11 p.m. service at church. The penultimate moments were spent in near-darkness with only the light of the Christ candle. Then the minister lit a small candle from it and began passing the light. One by one, each of our candles were lit until the sanctuary glowed with the combined gleamings. We sang "Silent Night" then waited a moment for the pealing of the bells that heralded midnight. The organ joined in and we all sang "Joy to the World."

Earlier yesterday evening, I indulged in another favorite tradition -- watching "A Christmas Story" with Darren McGavin and Peter Billingsly. This, for me, is the definitive American holiday classic. For travelers who feel the same, here are two suggestions for destinations:
Cleveland -- the house that appeared in the movie has been restored to its cinematic semi-glory -- leg lamp and all -- and is open to the public (www.achristmasstoryhouse.com) and Rogers, Arkansas' Daisy Airgun Museum. Though Ralphie's "200 shot Red Ryder range model air rifle with a compass in the stock" was never produced commercially, you'll find one of the four created for the movie in this neat little museum (www.daisymuseum.com). Merry Christmas and Happy Traveling.

A Proper Cornish Hedge

Cornish hedges are fascinating and intimidating things -- often untidy, haphazard looking, concealing hearts of stone, providing shelter for wildlife and rootholds for plants -- they snake across the Cornish landscape. Check out www.cornishhedges.co.uk/charlist.html for more than you'll ever need to know about Cornish hedges. I found it very interesting. I hope you will, too.

Prairie Palazzo

The Marland Mansion is an amazing home -- 55 rooms in this 43,000-plus square-foot pied-a-terre. Visitors oooh and aaah at the gilded ceilings, sparkling crystal and elegant hand-painted Chinoiserie. But even more amazing is the story of E.W. Marland. A millionaire by age 33, he was broke by 34. After moving to Oklahoma in 1908, he made his second fortune, founding Marland Oil Company. By the '20s, he controlled a tenth of all the world's oil reserves. In 1928, he was forced out of his own company by J.P. Morgan and the "wolves of Wall Street." Noted for his generosity and philanthropy, he went on to public service as a U.S. Congressman and as the 10th Governor of the state of Oklahoma. His story can't be told without including his second wife, Lydie. E.W. and his first wife, Virginia, had adopted Viriginia's niece and nephew, Lydie and George Roberts. Two years after Virginia's death, E.W. had the adoption annulled and he and Lydie married, causing considerable tongue-wagging in the small Oklahoma town. Lydie and E.W. lived only briefly in the magnificent mansion. After the loss of his oil company, his fortune declined and he could no longer pay the utility bills for the massive residence. The two moved into the artists' studio on the property. In 1941, Marland sold most of the property to the Discalced Carmelite Fathers of Mexico. He died in the chauffeur's quarters where he and Lydie had moved after the sale. Lydie became a recluse and woman of mystery. Sad endings to the lives of such important Oklahomans. Better to remember E.W.'s work on behalf of the underprivileged, aged and disabled, his conservation efforts and his founding of the Oklahoma Department of Public Safety and Highway Patrol, and laughing Lydie, the effervescant princess of the "Palace on the Prairie."

Ladies, Be Seated

Comedians always joke about women going to the ladies' room together and lots of times we do make a social occasion out of those visits. Some of the best fun I've had lately was in a ladies' room in Tortilla Flats, Arizona, northeast of Phoenix. Tortilla Flats was a stage coach stop on the Apache Trail. Today about all that's left is a cafe but it's well worth a visit -- especially the ladies' room. The stalls are painted with pictures of saloon dancers' bodies -- we supplied the heads. When I got up from the table to make the trek I was told, "Take your camera and get someone to go with you."

Good advice. We took turns taking pictures of one another and even took pictures for strangers! The restaurant walls are papered with dollar bills and the bar stools have saddles. The food was good, too.