A Royal Winter Send-off for Spring Break

I'm loving the 70 degree weather, nodding daffodils and blue skies out my window. Meanwhile, my son, daughter-in-law and three grandsons are keeping their fingers crossed for great skiing in New Mexico

And it looks good. All four of the ski areas I visited last month are open now with ample snow -- all trails are open and no snow-making machines needed!

My family is headed to Angel Fire -- staying in the lodge. It's so convenient just to walk out the door and you're ready to go. Angel Fire has the easiest check-in of the four places. They have computer terminals to enter your height, weight, shoe-size -- and, if you're a regular -- that information comes right up.

I have to admit, my skiing days are now behind me. I discovered I could still ski a bit after a 35-year hiatus -- but the lift totally conquered me! I spent some quality time in the Stray Dog Cafe adjacent to the ski area and browsing in the gift shop in the lodge. I also toured the property -- there are some gorgeous homes here and, in summer, golf and horseback riding.

Ski Santa Fe has great facilities for serious skiers. I played around on the baby slope for a while -- but there were too many babies and not enough slope (and I'd given up on the lift by the time we got here -- our third stop). There were plenty of places to sit and watch the action and the facilities are expanding to accommodate more guests inside. This ski area is strictly that -- so if you're not a skier, stay in Santa Fe!

I loved Taos -- very European-looking! This was our last stop and I'd given up even pretending to ski and concentrated on apres-ski! The day was gorgeous and it was comfortable sitting in the sun and watching others negotiate the slopes. And I met this nice guy with the most precious little husky puppy!

I'm very nostalgic about Red River -- it was the last place my family skied years ago -- back when I could actually get off the lift by myself. And it was the first place we skied on this press trip. The first afternoon we took beginners' lessons and I was rockin'. It was the next morning when the lift was added that things began to look bleak for my career as an antique Olympian. I couldn't stand up fast enough. First trip up the lift -- pow, I hit the snow. The next few times, the instructor boosted me off. After that, I'd just shout at the attendant, "Watch out, here I come!" And he would grab my hand and pull me off. Humiliating! Fortunately, there are other things to do and the moonlight snowmobile ride we took was a super experience -- full moon and snow-covered pines looking like they belonged on a Christmas card. The town has such a great family feel -- very laid-back.

In spite of not being the skier I'd hoped to be when I signed on for the trip, I had a great time. Now I'm going to breathe deep and enjoy the pollen-laced spring air here in Oklahoma!

Ghosts of Old Mesilla

I LOVE Mesilla, New Mexico, a little town just south of Las Cruces. The first permanent residents settled here in 1848. Thanks to a mistaken Yankee mapmaker, Mesilla was in "no man's land." When most of the state was ceded to the U.S. by the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, it was discovered that the depiction on the map was wrong and a little chunk of southwest New Mexico and a slice of southern Arizona were unaccounted for. The Gadsden purchase in 1853, settled the boundary dispute. The old town clustered around a central plaza -- a defense against raiding Apaches. Many of the buildings here date back to the 1850s.

Our group was led on a walking tour of the historic district by Preciliana, an enthusiastic and voluble guide dressed as an "adelita" -- a female "soldier" in the army of Pancho Villa.

She regaled us with stories of Old Mesilla and ghosts of days gone by. One of her best stories concerned the building that now houses the Double Eagle restaurant. Though not approaching its current opulence, the home was large and impressive for its time. The matriarch of the Maes family, the owners, had grand plans for her son Armando -- no local senorita was good enough. Armando, however, fell in love with Inez, one of his mother's maids. When Senora Maes discovered this, she drove Inez from the house. But not from the arms of Armando. One afternoon, returning earlier than expected, Mama Maes found Armando and Inez in an intimate situation in Armando's room. Grabbing her sewing scissors, she stabbed Inez. In the struggle, she also stabbed Armando -- killing the two lovers. The star-crossed specters still inhabit the property.

Today the highly popular restaurant has a reputation for fine cuisine -- and they make a mean Margarita. There are a number of dining areas -- from the twinkle-light-bedecked enclosed patio to the elegant gold Maximillian room with its Baccarat crystal chandeliers.

There are two chairs in the corner of Carlotta's Room (once Armando's bedroom) said to belong to the ill-fated couple. Superstitious people refuse to sit in them. I am not one of those people. No shrieking shades followed me into the night and my slumber was undisturbed.

Travelin' Teddies

SATW (Society of American Travel Writers) Central States Chapter, with Build-a-Bear Workshop, has an educational program called Travelin' Teddies. There are three dozen bears, each associated with an elementary classroom, traveling around the country with SATW members. Mrs. Kysar's class named their bear Teddy and he went with me to New Mexico. While he was there, he met Oso, the official New Mexico Adventure Bear. And, thanks to Oso's creator, Jill Lane, Oso now lives in Oklahoma. The photos of Oso and Teddy were taken at Jill's place, Elkhorn Lodge, near Chama. Oso will hold down the fort in Edmond while Teddy goes to Florida with me. It's going to be a tight squeeze because we're flying on one of those airlines that charges for the first checked bag. I'm trying to get everything in a backpack and a small carry-on. We'll see how that works but I think I'm going to hear some serious growling from Teddy.

New Mexico 4

Oh, my, what a day. We began at the little village of Chimayo with its lovely little chapel which dates back to the early 1800s. Many legends surround this church and many healings have been associated with the soil where a crucifix was found. The church is traditional style with vigas in the ceiling and five elaborate reredos, two on each side of the nave and one behind the altar. These are painted in folk santero style. In a tiny room off the nave is a hole where one can dig some of the sacred soil, said to promote healing. In another room are crutches, pictures and gifts from those who have been healed. There is also a niche with a statue of the Santo Nino de Atocha. It is said that at night, the Holy Child would leave his throne, visiting the sick and the unjustly imprisoned. He feeds them bread made by "Mama Mary" and water with the promise to set the captives free. He travels so much that he wears out his shoes. Many people leave shoes by the statue.
We visited two weaving shops -- Ortega's and Irvin and Lisa Trujillo. Beautiful, beautiful weaving -- Ortega's more of a large-scale operation, the Trujillos concentrating on one-of-a-kind artwork.
I have had several wonderful experiences with Native Americans this week -- today at the Pojoaque Pueblo. Lunch in their restaurant was fantastic and the Cultural Center was outstanding. Their story is told through a series of rooms depicting periods in their development corresponding to the seasons. I'm so sorry I couldn't take pictures there -- the three-dimensional exhibits were exceptional. Artist Roxanne Swentzell created all the figures used in the exhibits.
Next we went next door to her gallery. I'm so sorry I didn't get to meet her in person. Her art is compelling and with such a sense of humor! I did get pictures there and will put them up when I get home.
After tonight's dinner at Red Sage, I'll pack and in the morning hit the trail back to Oklahoma. This has been a long but wonderful week with so many photos, memories and things to write about. I thought I knew a lot about New Mexico but I know now that I have only scratched the surface. I have seen so many places that I want to come back to -- and spend more time.

New Mexico 3

This has to be fast -- we leave in 9 minutes for Chimayo to visit the church there and to stop in at several artists' studios. We'll be seeing some famous weavers and potters. The last three days have been amazing. I'll blog more when I get home but the highlights included a tour at Ghost Ranch to see spots featured in Georgia O'Keeffe paintings,

a narrow-gauge train trip from Chama to Antonito on the Cumbres and Toltec Railroad and a jeep trip from Red River into the Wheeler Wilderness. The aspens are a glorious gold and, highlighted against the dark green pines and spruce shine like heaps of coins. More when I get home -- and, hopefully, some good photos!

New Mexico 2

What an amazing day! We went to Bandelier, a gorgeous national monument in a canyon -- home to ancient Pueblo people. I was dreading the hike -- but it was great. Some climbing, but not too much. I even made it up a ladder to a kiva. I was so proud of myself that I passed my camera down and asked Cathy Admire, one of the Geiger associates, to take my picture. I was very specific about her waiting until I turned around to snap it. She took not one but three shots of my butt backing out of the kiva! Looked like a giant blue bear coming out of hibernation. I don't know where; I don't know when, but she will get hers.
Later this afternoon we met a delightful brother and sister, Krieg Kalavaza and Diane Jenkins, at the San Ildefonso Pueblo. They are potters and gave us a detailed demonstration of their art. I wish I could have bought one of their pots but someone asked the price of a medium sized pot on the table and their answer told me I probably couldn't even afford a thimble! The process to make the pots was extremely time consuming -- they even gather their own clay -- and the finished products are truly works of art so the price wasn't unreasonable. Just didn't fit my purse!
They were so gracious about sharing traditions and beliefs. When they gather the clay, they only gather as much as they will use for one project. Krieg said that the clay didn't belong to them but to Mother Earth. So, even though it means many trips with small containers, they have this deep respect for the source of their materials. They also prepared iced tea and cookies for us. The demonstration was in Kreig's home where they grew up. We were also allowed to take all the pictures we wanted. It was a real honor to be invited into their world.

New Mexico 1

I arrived in Albuquerque yesterday afternoon and was picked up and driven to Santa Fe where we (other journalists and I) toured the New Mexico Museum of Art. It is in a beautiful pueblo-styled building with a picturesque courtyard. Their current exhibit, How the West Was One, is brilliant. The museum started as a studio and gallery where artists could create, show and sell their work and was open to any artists working in New Mexico. The exhibit includes works from the time of the railroad's arrival to the present and includes an amazing variety from Native American and Hispanic artists to Easterners who came here (like John Sloan, Marsden Harley and Georgia O'Keeffe) to work. Some of the contemporary pieces are real stunners. Upstairs, the curator has paired works. I don't have my notes, but trust me, the exhibit is top-notch.
Today we started with a 7 a.m. architectural walk, breakfast at the La Fonda (where I am staying) then visits to two museums (I'll get the names wrong so I'll put them in later) on Museum Hill -- one featuring Native American art and heritage and the other Spanish Colonial. Then the most spectacular lunch at the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum. We got to tour the museum which is currently closed while they install a new exhibition which opens Friday. Oh my, the fabulous O'Keeffes. And the curator went around with us and gave us great background material.
The weather is the most gorgeous New Mexican weather -- a sky so blue it's beyond belief, warm sun, cool breeze -- absolutely perfect. The 7000-foot altitude is telling on me -- hopefully by tomorrow I will be more used to it and not so short of breath. (Couldn't be those extra pounds from the great food we're having?)
Must go -- I leave in 50 minutes to eat again!!!!!