It's Tough Being a Princess

The opening reception for the recent Society of American Travel Writers annual convention was held at the Town Hall in Manchester, England. Princess Anne was the guest of honor. Her role involved being escorted onto the dais, standing during the brief opening speeches and being escorted out of the building. A week later, as Zoe and I were looking out the window in Penzance, we saw a Coast Guard ship shooting off water cannons, several smaller ships and two tenders coming into shore and, finally, a helicopter arriving. We got down the stairs and down the shore walk just as a crowd was dispersing. "What's going on?" we asked. "It's over now," we were told,"but the Princess Royal (Anne) was here dedicating a new sculpture memorializing men lost at sea." When I had the opportunity to see a copy of the London Times, I found a column detailing the Buckingham Palace schedule. Sure enough, Princess Anne was attending some opening or another. Being a princess has to have some pretty cool perks but think about it. Can Anne schlep to the DQ for an ice cream cone or go to the dollar movie wearing old blue jeans? And, if she can, when does she have time with all those exciting state duties?

Canon Moments

Top is Lanyon Quoit. In the distance, you can see the ruins of one of the many tin mines that were the lifeblood of the area at one time. Men-an-tol is in the middle. The other photo is one of several sunrise shots from the window of our flat. I really miss that view -- but I'm loving my own bed and especially enjoying our shower with lots of hot water and great pressure.

Blaze of Glory

I woke early this morning, thinking of packing, getting tickets, catching the train, all the details you go over in your head before travelling. It was still dark out but a thin magenta stain was visible just above the inky blue horizon. I sat down at the computer to check email and when I looked up again, crimson had colored the sky. I'd already packed the camera but went in the other room to get it out. When I returned, scarlet and hot pink streaks blazed and tinted the high clouds a delicate shade of peach. I watched and shot from the bay window, not moving, knowing how quickly the light changes. But this is my last morning. I stuffed my feet into my shoes, grabbed my coat and headed for the shore line walk. I caught the last fading bits of this glorious sunrise over the rugged rocks exposed by the low tide. Standing there, I breathed in the sea air, trying to cement the memory in my senses. By the time I returned to the flat, the color had disappeared and the sky is now a flat gray. I'm trying hard to hold onto the warmth, but, leaving Zoe and Simon, the gray is hard to keep out.

Rock of Ages

Having explored some of the early sites with possible religious significance, this day we sought a more familiar seat of spirituality -- Trinity Methodist Church in Newlyn. The pastor, Julyan Drew, presided over the blessing ceremony for Simon and Zoe two years ago. (This was, in essence, a renewal of the vows they took in Oklahoma for the benefit of Simon's family who could not attend the wedding.) We have heard many remarks about the moribund state of religion in Britain and, from the times we have attended church in this country, have had to agree that congregations are aging and dwindling. Trinity has broken with tradition in more ways than one. Their meeting place is a contemporary multipurpose center adjacent to the original chapel which needed (and still needs) serious restoration. During the week, the room serves many needs in the community. On Sunday, chairs are set up and large side doors are opened, revealing the area housing the communion table. Behind the table, a modern stained-glass window casts appealing color into the area. The communion table, pulpit and baptismal font were all made locally -- combining masterful woodwork with stunning copper crafting. Worshippers filled the room and the live acoustics created a full sound as hymns were sung. The service was inspiring and the congregation responsive and warm with young families making up a good portion of the group. Julyan's charismatic personality must be a driving force in the feeling of life and love in this place. I don't want to call it charm, that's too superficial, but he has a glow of goodness about him that is undeniable. A testimony to this -- before the service, he wanted to prepare a little girl (she must have been about 18 months old) before her baptism. He took Olivia from her mother and carried her around, talking to her and showing her the baptismal font. When he took her back to her mother, she didn't want to leave Julyan so he continued carrying her around. Finally, her mother enticed her with a bottle. When the time for the baptism came, same reaction. She wasn't even concerned when he tipped her toward the font and poured water on her head for the ceremony. Julyan would be the last to take credit for what is happening in this little village. An old hymn says it all, "There's a sweet, sweet spirit in this place and I know that it's the Spirit of the Lord." This was a good way to start our last day in Penzance. I won't be blogging for a couple of days because we'll be travelling -- first by train, bus and train (wouldn't you know, track maintenance) with a night spent in Gatwick, then the long flight from London to Dallas and a quick flight home. I'm looking forward to seeing my Oklahoma kids and grandkids, getting Roxie from the kennel and enjoying my really good shower and good bed before I hit the road again. Thanks for reading and following our trip with us.

A Rock and a Hard Place

Traces of ancient people dot this landscape -- men and women whose lives we know little about and whose customs leave only questions, no answers -- their presence noted by megaliths of mysterious meaning. Early Christian fathers sometimes used them as object lessons explaining the stone circle near St. Buryan as women who danced on Sunday and were turned to stone for their sins. These are the Merry Maidens, 19 standing stones in a circle -- much smaller than Stonehenge with no capstones -- one of England's best preserved stone circles. No such easy explanations exist for the Lanyon Quoit or Men-An-Tol, both between Madron and Morvah. The Lanyon Quoit consists of three standing stones and a 13 1/2 ton capstone. It's also been called The Giant's Table. The quoit, or dolmen, originally stood tall enough for a mounted rider to pass beneath but it collapsed in 1815. Re-erected by local people, the monument lacks one of it's original supports, is shorter and is improperly oriented. Still, it is an impressive sight and easily accessible from the road. I'm the one who suggested this outing so I couldn't whine when we found ourselves walking, walking, walking up the public footpath, at least a half a mile from the road, to find Men-An-Tol. This site comprises an upright, circular, holed stone (men an tol is Cornish for stone with a hole) and two standing stones. The circular stone stands just under three feet tall. Experiments have been done showing the alignment of sun and stones on significant dates. In earlier years, superstitious people believed that passing an infant through the hole would prevent certain diseases and for adults, crawling through the hole nine times would cure backache -- but probably kill your knees. For me, the Merry Maidens had the "best vibes" -- don't know why -- it was just a compelling spot. When we visited Men-An-Tol, there was a family with three small children and two dogs spread out for a picnic. It was difficult to get a good picture because one or more of the children were darting in and out and the parents were completely oblivious. Human sacrifice was out of the question, but it did cross my mind.

English Gentlemen

England seems to spawn a certain type of "character" in the best sense of the word. Eccentric doesn't quite fit but it comes close. These gentlemen, usually of mature years, display a breadth of interest and depth of pursuit that seems quite out of the ordinary. I've known several. Nigel Racine-Jacques used to patrol the London streets looking for bewildered tourists whom he would befriend and guide. My parents once stood on a street corner, indecisive about their directions, when Nigel came up to them, offering a map and advice. He wound up walking them all over town, showing them things that most tourists miss -- a house where Benjamin Franklin stayed, Roman ruins, a ribald interpretation of the royal crest. Here in Penzance, on our last trip, we met Roger Jenkin, an historian and scholar and friend to tourists. He not only told us about a local site --a large anchor propped against a building -- but told us of the ship's captain (Sir Cloudsley Shovel) and even added some 300 year old gossip about his death. Yesterday I spent time with my son-in-law Simon's father. He would probably bristle at being called a "character" and, yet, in this sense it is a compliment. He has myriad interests -- from maritime history and architecture to English watercourses. He's documented many of these interests on a variety of web sites. You never know what you'll find there -- perhaps how to date a historic house by looking at the windows or determining the layout of an ancient manor by drawing a tree plan. He's interested in a lot of little things no one else seems to care about. But when he's gone, the world will have lost an amazing amount of information and we'll all be poorer for it. (His name is Raymond Forward and, if you're curious, check his web site at www.freepages.family.rootsweb.com/~treevecwll/index.htm.) Photo: Roger Jenkin and Jack by the anchor from the "Association" which sank in 1707.

English Gentlemen

England seems to spawn a certain type of "character" in the best sense of the word. Eccentric doesn't quite fit but it comes close. These gentlemen, usually of mature years, display a breadth of interest and depth of pursuit that seems quite out of the ordinary. I've known several. Nigel Racine-Jacques used to patrol the London streets looking for bewildered tourists whom he would befriend and guide. My parents once stood on a street corner, indecisive about their directions, when Nigel came up to them, offering a map and advice. He wound up walking them all over town, showing them things that most tourists miss -- a house where Benjamin Franklin stayed, Roman ruins, a ribald interpretation of the royal crest. Here in Penzance, on our last trip, we met Roger Jenkin, an historian and scholar and friend to tourists. He not only told us about a local site --a large anchor propped against a building, but told us of the ship's captain and even added some 200 year old gossip about his death. Yesterday I spent time with my son-in-law Simon's father. He would probably bristle at being called a "character" and, yet, in this sense it is a compliment. He has myriad interests -- from maritime history and architecture to English watercourses. He's documented many of these interests on a variety of web sites. You never know what you'll find there -- perhaps how to date a historic house by looking at the windows or determining the layout of an ancient manor by drawing a tree plan. He's interested in a lot of little things no one else seems to care about. But when he's gone, the world will have lost an amazing amount of information and we'll all be poorer for it.

As We Were Going to St. Ives

My daughter Zoe is a fairly new English driver and I think she does remarkably well. Driving here is an adventure as most of the streets and country lanes were not made for today's traffic. We were going to St. Ives where my husband Jack was going to have lunch with the local Rotary Club. Not wanting to drive through the center-of-town traffic, we chose a back road. Zoe's Mazda is not a large car, but there were places where we could stick our arms out either side of the car and touch the Cornish hedges! Luckily, we didn't meet anyone coming toward us. The Rotary meeting was held in Tregenna Castle Hotel. Yes, it was originally a castle, or large manor house. The family wasn't royal, just rich. Today it offers many amenities including indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, gardens and a golf course. Maybe the finest amenity is the view -- a sweeping panorama of the coast with St. Ives as the feature attraction. St. Ives itself is full of touristy shops and was bustling even on a week day. The clouds faded away today but, even though the sun shone brightly, the breeze was brisk. On Porthmeor Beach, kids wearing sweaters waded out into the water. There was even an intrepid surfer riding the waves that washed up on the sandy beach. St. Ives has much to recommend it but I didn't see anything I'd trade for our lovely view of Mounts Bay in Penzance.

Going Coastal in Cornwall

We cut across country from Penzance to St. Just and the heart of the Cornish World Heritage Mining site. Ruins of engine houses and smoke stacks testify to the mines that once searched for tin, primarily, but also copper, silver and arsenic. Many of the structures perched precariously over the sea and shafts ran out as far as a mile under the ocean. The road winds in and out among the hills, revealing teasing views of the ocean. Cornish hedges squeeze the pavement, cutting off the scenery and providing little wiggle room when meeting oncoming traffic. Cornish hedges are stone-hearted -- literally. Constructed of stacked, unmortared, granite stones, their crevices provide harbor for seeds that produce vegetation which disguises their unyielding centers. We traveled past Botallack and Pendeen, stopping at Zennor to see the 12th century church of St. Senara with its Mermaid Chair, estimated to be 500 or 600 years old. Local legend tells of a young woman who came to the church and became enamored of a young chorister. A mermaid in disguise, she lured him down to the cove and into the sea and they were never seen again. I personally doubt this story, as I had difficulty getting up the tall granite steps into the church. I can't imagine that it would have been possible with a tail.

"This other Eden....this England"

Shakespeare, as always, said it best -- describing the beauty and majesty of this land. Even on a gray, drizzly, foggy day, we found Eden. The Eden Project, that is. This amazing collection of plants combines the English love of gardens, the scientist's curiosity about the role of plants on our planet and the environmentalist's concern over our future all in one beautiful, educational and interesting compound. Making use of an old quarry, the facility consists of outdoor areas and space-age, geodesic structures called "biomes." Looking like giant soap bubbles on the landscape, they house plants from all over the world. One large area is devoted to the rainforests of the world while the other houses the drier, more Mediterranean flora. Brilliant red geraniums and magenta bougainvillea splashed against and draped over white walls decorated with colorful Spanish tiles. Knarled olive trees grew by the path while in the vineyard, sculpted Bacchantes reveled among the vines. The only things missing in the California chapparal section were Wal-Mart bags and beer cans. But then, this wasn't really California -- it is Eden.

Our Not-So-Common Language

The quote about America and England being two countries separated by a common language is still true. I thought I was pretty savvy, but I'm still finding one or two things that surprise me. Flat for apartment, car park for parking lot, lorry for truck, lift for elevator, we're used to these words. New ones I've noticed include scheme for plan, as in "The Nation Health scheme calls for...." Scheme to me has ominous overtones of something slightly shady. Americans straighten things out while the English sort them out. Have a problem? They'll sort it out or wait until you get it sorted out. The newest phrase for my collection is amenity skip. Is that what the bellman does when he brings you extra shampoo in a hotel? Or does it mean you're going to do without the shampoo altogether? Nope, it's a large trash container -- like a Demsey Dumpster -- provided for a group of flats or houses. I haven't completely caught on yet, but I find myself joining the locals in having a lovely time, drinking lovely tea accompanied by lovely little biscuits (cookies) and everything is simply brilliant!

Madron Church: Age and Beauty

Tonight we went to a concert of early music -- Dowland, Lassus, Gibbons -- and it was daunting to realize that the church we were sitting in was much older than the music. The main parts of the church date back to the early 1500s but parts are much older. The bell tower was raised to its present height in 1390. Several bits date back to Norman times (the 12th century). On display in the church is a memorial stone which dates to the 7th or 8th century. Overhead was an unusual wagon-roof -- a close-set series of double arch-braced trusses with 250 carved bosses and carved and painted angels on each cornice. The tracery on the rood screen was as delicate as a spider web. In the center of the screen, over the aisle, was tied a sheaf of barley -- the last sheaf of the harvest. This is part of an ancient ceremony called "crying the neck." No one could tell me why it is called that, just that it has been tradition for many generations. This is one of the most interesting churches I've visited and, while I enjoyed the concert, I kept wishing I could spend several hours just photographing the church.

Beans for Breakfast

We started the day with a long walk up a long hill to the center of Penzance. We were headed for a traditional English breakfast at Wetherspoon's, a local pub. A fried egg, bacon (more Canadian-style than American strips), a sausage, a grilled tomato, a grilled mushroom and baked beans and there you have it. Pretty balanced, actually, with protein, veg and, well, fat! Couldn't do it every morning but it was a treat this morning. We ended the day with more traditional English food -- Indian. We walked to Taj, a really nice Indian restaurant with excellent food -- and brought enough home for dinner tomorrow. In between breakfast and dinner, we visited Trevarno Manor, home of the National Gardening Museum, Vintage Soap Museum and 70 acres of beautiful grounds and woodlands. Things are still blooming here -- fuchsias, hydrangeas, honeysuckle, roses -- though the biggest blooming season is past. Some of the leaves are starting to turn and I got a good picture of a beautiful little lake and Victorian boathouse and a lovely red tree. I promise when I get home, I'll go back and put pictures on all my posts. Please keep reading and let me hear from you.

Outside the American Box

Just because we're used to doing things one way doesn't mean that's the only way to do them -- as we're discovering here in England. Staying in a vacation flat, we're experiencing pay-as-you-go electricity. You put a pound coin in a meter and use all the electricity you want until your pound is up and everything goes dark. There was some money left on the meter when we moved in Wednesday -- it's now Friday and we're still going on it. But we're turning off lights, doing without lights, keeping the heat low and keeping the water heater off unless we really need it! It's amazing how frugal we've gotten -- and probably a good thing.

Zoe and I went to the grocery store yesterday and there were some other discoveries. I dropped the cleaning off there. And, in the parking lot, there are covered sheds for the grocery carts. The carts are chained together and to get a cart, you have to put in a pound coin ($2 at today's rate). When you return your cart, you get your coin back. I took a picture of a woman buying some lovely fresh fish and one of the butchers offered to show me his sausage. I can't say I've gotten that offer in Oklahoma.

Meet Miss Potter

If you haven't seen "Miss Potter" with Rene Zellwiger, rent it. It is a quiet little movie about a strong woman in a time that little appreciated strong women. There are a few chronological details that aren't quite accurate but the basic story is a factual account. Beatrix Potter didn't begin "writing" until her late 20s when she wrote a letter to the son of her former governess. Not knowing exactly what to write to this boy she hardly knew, she wrote him a story. A few years later, she decided to try to turn that little story into a book. No publisher would touch it, so she had 250 copies published on her own. They quickly sold out. Frederick Warne Company became interested -- the result was "The Tale of Peter Rabbit." Several years and books after that, she was able to buy Hill Top Farm in the Lake District. On our visit, we saw the garden that appears in the illustrations for Jemima Puddleduck and toured the house, which figures prominently in "The Tale of Samuel Whiskers." Upon leaving, we drove past Esthwaite Water -- I'm sure if the driver had stopped, we could have seen Jeremiah Fisher on a lily pad with a pole and line.

Water, water everywhere -- and no photo stop

England's Lake District is beautiful. That's the plain truth. Wordsworth, of course, said it more poetically. The water of Lake Windemere mirrored the sky. Mist hung on the hills and caught in the branches of the trees. Fall is just setting in and there are russet and gold trees among the green. By noon, the haze had burned off and patches of blue peeked through the clouds. I'll have great memories of this day -- but few pictures. Alas, there are few stopping places along the road and, being part of a tour, I was at the mercy of the bus driver. I wonder if he would have seen the daffodils?

My, Oh My, Oh Manchester

Manchester, England, was the queen city of the industrial revolution. It's amazing the mechanical devices and scientific discoveries that came from here. If I'd toured the Museum of Science and Industry, I could tell you all about them. Instead, I visited the Dr. Who exhibit! Today Manchester is a commercial, retail and sports hub and a great place to visit. Solid, substantial buildings, monuments to manufacturing glory (but with the flourishes and embellishments that herald economic power) stand next to avant-garde architectural extravagances that signal Twenty-first century success. This is a great town for walking and exploring. It also has lots and lots of trees and beautiful flowers. I've never seen such happy begonias. The city's so on top of what's in that they even have a shop named "Oklahoma." I'm so pleased that we came here for the Society of American Travel Writers convention. What a great choice!

Gotta Get to Guymon

Here I sit in the heart of the Oklahoma panhandle -- in the midst of miles and miles of miles and miles. This is amazing country -- enough sky to cover a continent -- and it's blue, a veritable ocean of air. The terrain is so flat that you can see past beyond. Yesterday Jack and I spotted a magnificent male pheasant, a prairie dog and an antelope. It's antelope season and I wonder how hunters get close enough to take a shot. Since I'm an unabashed bambi-lovin' tree hugger, I hope they don't! We've spent two nights at the Willows Inn Bed and Breakfast here in Guymon (while I was attending a conference) and it's better than a home away from home. It's cleaner than my house and the breakfast, which I didn't have to fix, was awesome. Check www.thewillowsinn.net to see pictures. There are several good restaurants in Guymon and several chain motels in addition to the b and b. Guymon boasts a nice park with a one-mile walking trail around a little lake and a wildlife refuge with buffalo and elk (who were hiding out when we visited). I'll be writing about this trip in the Edmond Sun. Got to hit the road to Goodwell. More later.

WaterFire

What's a writer to do with an indescribable event? I'd be chewing my pencil if I weren't on the computer! Jack and I "did" Kansas City this weekend capped off with one of the most enjoyable spectacles I've seen in a long time -- WaterFire. Copied from an event back East, WaterFire combined music, performance art and 85 bonfires blazing in Brush Creek Canal on the Plaza. I thought the music was canned until Jack pointed out a singer not six feet away on a bridge over the canal. I don't know her name, but will find out. She sang a glorious Dvorak aria "Song to the Moon." The selection of music was outstanding for the free event. Definitely not aimed at rockers or headbangers, the choices soared over the crowd, a fitting accompaniment to the European-feel of the setting. Later in the evening, performers did things with fire that surely sent their insurance rates skyrocketing. There will be a second presentation of WaterFire on October 13 -- definitely a do-not-miss event.

The young lady in the photo is soprano Sylvia Stoner-Hawkins.

Oklahoma Wine -- Endangered Species?

Often my articles in the Edmond Sun get posted on the web. This one didn't. But I'd like to share it because I feel so strongly that the Oklahoma wine industry is important and needs our support. So, here's the text of the article that appeared in the Edmond Sun on June 3rd.

A number of jokes begin with the words, “I have some good news and some bad news….” This story begins like the jokes – only it’s not funny. The good news is that the Oklahoma wine industry is growing. The bad news is that liquor wholesalers, with the complicity of the legislature, may kill it.
Oklahoma now has 48 wineries. Not all wineries have their own vineyards; others have vineyards but don’t grow enough grapes for their own production. This opens up an avenue for crop diversification; a number of farmers have turned portions of their land over to grape cultivation. Wine tourism is growing in importance. Travelers get off the interstates to visit wineries and leave more money in the state. And wine, particularly red wine, has some real health benefits. All this is good news.
Oklahoma voters apparently appreciate the case for the local wine industry. In 2000 a state referendum passed in all 77 counties, by a margin of 70 per cent or more, allowing winemakers to sell their products directly to retail liquor stores and restaurants.
Wineries in Oklahoma are, for the most part, boutique facilities. Their output is small and their profit margin is slim. Start-up costs are not inexpensive. One well-established winery is expecting to operate in the black this year, after seven years of red ink.
And now, for the bad news. Thanks to three liquor wholesale companies in Oklahoma, wineries may be forced to sell their products through wholesalers who take up to a 22 per cent cut for their minimal efforts. The wholesalers sued the ABLE Commission, saying direct sales were illegal. Seems they’re concerned that large out-of-state producers are going to be crushed by Okie wine sales. Or are they worried that the out-of-staters might be able to bypass them, too? A federal judge was forced to agree with the wholesalers based on a US Supreme Court case preventing discrimination between in-state and out-of-state wineries. He did, however, stay his decision to give the legislature time to rewrite the Oklahoma law so that it not only conformed to federal law, but reflected the wishes of Oklahoma citizens (remember the 2000 vote).
All efforts to present such a bill failed. What passed was a bill reaffirming the old three tier – producer, wholesaler, retailer – system which would cripple the fledgling Oklahoma wine industry. To find out why, a good detective would “follow the money.”
That would be money in campaign chests and wholesalers pockets at the expense of the Oklahoma wine industry, the state and, ultimately, the citizens of Oklahoma.
Oklahoma statistics aren’t available but statistics from other states are revealing. Forget the number one state, California, where the grape and wine industry (over 2000 wineries) has a $51.8 billion impact on the state. Look at North Carolina with 55 wineries – 2005 figures place the industry impact at $813.3 million.
How does this relate to a travel column? Wine touring is a big draw. Individual wineries may be small, but together, they create an important tourism niche.
What can you do? Visit a local winery; sample the wares and talk to owners about the current law and how it will affect their business. Call your legislators – and don’t be put off by smoke-screen issues like tax collection, internet sales and sales to under-age buyers. These issues are easily resolved. The bottom line is – do we want to support Oklahoma’s expanding wine industry or will we let it be nipped in the bud?