Beans for Breakfast

We started the day with a long walk up a long hill to the center of Penzance. We were headed for a traditional English breakfast at Wetherspoon's, a local pub. A fried egg, bacon (more Canadian-style than American strips), a sausage, a grilled tomato, a grilled mushroom and baked beans and there you have it. Pretty balanced, actually, with protein, veg and, well, fat! Couldn't do it every morning but it was a treat this morning. We ended the day with more traditional English food -- Indian. We walked to Taj, a really nice Indian restaurant with excellent food -- and brought enough home for dinner tomorrow. In between breakfast and dinner, we visited Trevarno Manor, home of the National Gardening Museum, Vintage Soap Museum and 70 acres of beautiful grounds and woodlands. Things are still blooming here -- fuchsias, hydrangeas, honeysuckle, roses -- though the biggest blooming season is past. Some of the leaves are starting to turn and I got a good picture of a beautiful little lake and Victorian boathouse and a lovely red tree. I promise when I get home, I'll go back and put pictures on all my posts. Please keep reading and let me hear from you.

Outside the American Box

Just because we're used to doing things one way doesn't mean that's the only way to do them -- as we're discovering here in England. Staying in a vacation flat, we're experiencing pay-as-you-go electricity. You put a pound coin in a meter and use all the electricity you want until your pound is up and everything goes dark. There was some money left on the meter when we moved in Wednesday -- it's now Friday and we're still going on it. But we're turning off lights, doing without lights, keeping the heat low and keeping the water heater off unless we really need it! It's amazing how frugal we've gotten -- and probably a good thing.

Zoe and I went to the grocery store yesterday and there were some other discoveries. I dropped the cleaning off there. And, in the parking lot, there are covered sheds for the grocery carts. The carts are chained together and to get a cart, you have to put in a pound coin ($2 at today's rate). When you return your cart, you get your coin back. I took a picture of a woman buying some lovely fresh fish and one of the butchers offered to show me his sausage. I can't say I've gotten that offer in Oklahoma.

Meet Miss Potter

If you haven't seen "Miss Potter" with Rene Zellwiger, rent it. It is a quiet little movie about a strong woman in a time that little appreciated strong women. There are a few chronological details that aren't quite accurate but the basic story is a factual account. Beatrix Potter didn't begin "writing" until her late 20s when she wrote a letter to the son of her former governess. Not knowing exactly what to write to this boy she hardly knew, she wrote him a story. A few years later, she decided to try to turn that little story into a book. No publisher would touch it, so she had 250 copies published on her own. They quickly sold out. Frederick Warne Company became interested -- the result was "The Tale of Peter Rabbit." Several years and books after that, she was able to buy Hill Top Farm in the Lake District. On our visit, we saw the garden that appears in the illustrations for Jemima Puddleduck and toured the house, which figures prominently in "The Tale of Samuel Whiskers." Upon leaving, we drove past Esthwaite Water -- I'm sure if the driver had stopped, we could have seen Jeremiah Fisher on a lily pad with a pole and line.

Water, water everywhere -- and no photo stop

England's Lake District is beautiful. That's the plain truth. Wordsworth, of course, said it more poetically. The water of Lake Windemere mirrored the sky. Mist hung on the hills and caught in the branches of the trees. Fall is just setting in and there are russet and gold trees among the green. By noon, the haze had burned off and patches of blue peeked through the clouds. I'll have great memories of this day -- but few pictures. Alas, there are few stopping places along the road and, being part of a tour, I was at the mercy of the bus driver. I wonder if he would have seen the daffodils?

My, Oh My, Oh Manchester

Manchester, England, was the queen city of the industrial revolution. It's amazing the mechanical devices and scientific discoveries that came from here. If I'd toured the Museum of Science and Industry, I could tell you all about them. Instead, I visited the Dr. Who exhibit! Today Manchester is a commercial, retail and sports hub and a great place to visit. Solid, substantial buildings, monuments to manufacturing glory (but with the flourishes and embellishments that herald economic power) stand next to avant-garde architectural extravagances that signal Twenty-first century success. This is a great town for walking and exploring. It also has lots and lots of trees and beautiful flowers. I've never seen such happy begonias. The city's so on top of what's in that they even have a shop named "Oklahoma." I'm so pleased that we came here for the Society of American Travel Writers convention. What a great choice!

Gotta Get to Guymon

Here I sit in the heart of the Oklahoma panhandle -- in the midst of miles and miles of miles and miles. This is amazing country -- enough sky to cover a continent -- and it's blue, a veritable ocean of air. The terrain is so flat that you can see past beyond. Yesterday Jack and I spotted a magnificent male pheasant, a prairie dog and an antelope. It's antelope season and I wonder how hunters get close enough to take a shot. Since I'm an unabashed bambi-lovin' tree hugger, I hope they don't! We've spent two nights at the Willows Inn Bed and Breakfast here in Guymon (while I was attending a conference) and it's better than a home away from home. It's cleaner than my house and the breakfast, which I didn't have to fix, was awesome. Check www.thewillowsinn.net to see pictures. There are several good restaurants in Guymon and several chain motels in addition to the b and b. Guymon boasts a nice park with a one-mile walking trail around a little lake and a wildlife refuge with buffalo and elk (who were hiding out when we visited). I'll be writing about this trip in the Edmond Sun. Got to hit the road to Goodwell. More later.

WaterFire

What's a writer to do with an indescribable event? I'd be chewing my pencil if I weren't on the computer! Jack and I "did" Kansas City this weekend capped off with one of the most enjoyable spectacles I've seen in a long time -- WaterFire. Copied from an event back East, WaterFire combined music, performance art and 85 bonfires blazing in Brush Creek Canal on the Plaza. I thought the music was canned until Jack pointed out a singer not six feet away on a bridge over the canal. I don't know her name, but will find out. She sang a glorious Dvorak aria "Song to the Moon." The selection of music was outstanding for the free event. Definitely not aimed at rockers or headbangers, the choices soared over the crowd, a fitting accompaniment to the European-feel of the setting. Later in the evening, performers did things with fire that surely sent their insurance rates skyrocketing. There will be a second presentation of WaterFire on October 13 -- definitely a do-not-miss event.

The young lady in the photo is soprano Sylvia Stoner-Hawkins.

Oklahoma Wine -- Endangered Species?

Often my articles in the Edmond Sun get posted on the web. This one didn't. But I'd like to share it because I feel so strongly that the Oklahoma wine industry is important and needs our support. So, here's the text of the article that appeared in the Edmond Sun on June 3rd.

A number of jokes begin with the words, “I have some good news and some bad news….” This story begins like the jokes – only it’s not funny. The good news is that the Oklahoma wine industry is growing. The bad news is that liquor wholesalers, with the complicity of the legislature, may kill it.
Oklahoma now has 48 wineries. Not all wineries have their own vineyards; others have vineyards but don’t grow enough grapes for their own production. This opens up an avenue for crop diversification; a number of farmers have turned portions of their land over to grape cultivation. Wine tourism is growing in importance. Travelers get off the interstates to visit wineries and leave more money in the state. And wine, particularly red wine, has some real health benefits. All this is good news.
Oklahoma voters apparently appreciate the case for the local wine industry. In 2000 a state referendum passed in all 77 counties, by a margin of 70 per cent or more, allowing winemakers to sell their products directly to retail liquor stores and restaurants.
Wineries in Oklahoma are, for the most part, boutique facilities. Their output is small and their profit margin is slim. Start-up costs are not inexpensive. One well-established winery is expecting to operate in the black this year, after seven years of red ink.
And now, for the bad news. Thanks to three liquor wholesale companies in Oklahoma, wineries may be forced to sell their products through wholesalers who take up to a 22 per cent cut for their minimal efforts. The wholesalers sued the ABLE Commission, saying direct sales were illegal. Seems they’re concerned that large out-of-state producers are going to be crushed by Okie wine sales. Or are they worried that the out-of-staters might be able to bypass them, too? A federal judge was forced to agree with the wholesalers based on a US Supreme Court case preventing discrimination between in-state and out-of-state wineries. He did, however, stay his decision to give the legislature time to rewrite the Oklahoma law so that it not only conformed to federal law, but reflected the wishes of Oklahoma citizens (remember the 2000 vote).
All efforts to present such a bill failed. What passed was a bill reaffirming the old three tier – producer, wholesaler, retailer – system which would cripple the fledgling Oklahoma wine industry. To find out why, a good detective would “follow the money.”
That would be money in campaign chests and wholesalers pockets at the expense of the Oklahoma wine industry, the state and, ultimately, the citizens of Oklahoma.
Oklahoma statistics aren’t available but statistics from other states are revealing. Forget the number one state, California, where the grape and wine industry (over 2000 wineries) has a $51.8 billion impact on the state. Look at North Carolina with 55 wineries – 2005 figures place the industry impact at $813.3 million.
How does this relate to a travel column? Wine touring is a big draw. Individual wineries may be small, but together, they create an important tourism niche.
What can you do? Visit a local winery; sample the wares and talk to owners about the current law and how it will affect their business. Call your legislators – and don’t be put off by smoke-screen issues like tax collection, internet sales and sales to under-age buyers. These issues are easily resolved. The bottom line is – do we want to support Oklahoma’s expanding wine industry or will we let it be nipped in the bud?

Little Rock Report

If you're a catfish fan, the Flying Fish in Little Rock is the spot for you. I created my own combo basket in order to try the catfish, oysters and shrimp. The menu isn't limited to these choices and you can get grilled or broiled items. The decor is eclectic -- fish photos, the Billy Bass wall, lineoleum tile floors and plastic table cloths. Dive comes closer than dining establishment to describe Flying Fish -- but it's good and popular and you can expect to stand in line to order.

For something completely different, try Lilly's Dim Sum and Then Some. Fresh, flavorful and exotic, the food includes favs from several Asian countries.

To read my article on Little Rock: http://www.edmondsun.com/features/local_story_104154758.html.

panda pic

This is Bai Yun (White Cloud), the adult female panda at the San Diego Zoo. She is the mother of two cubs. According to the zoo, she likes things that smell like cloves, pine or mens' cologne.

Panda moanium

When I'm wrong, I'm wrong. I wrote in my latest Edmond Sun column that there are 10 giant pandas in U.S. zoos. I was quickly brought up to date by emails to the editor. There's been a panda population explosion -- there are now 20% more pandas -- bringing the total to 12. There are four pandas in San Diego, three in Washington, D.C., three in Atlanta and two in Memphis (with a possible baby on the way). Mea culpa!

To read the article, please go to www.edmondsun.com/features/local_story_077143410.html?keyword=secondarystory

There were a couple of editorial errors in the story -- those weren't my culpas! If you read it -- there are 24 Israeli scrolls in the San Diego exhibit -- 10 of these have never been on public view. There are also three scrolls from Jordan. The Russian materials are not Dead Sea Scrolls but very ancient texts. And the prices quoted in the paragraphs about the U.S. Grant Hotel refer to the nightly rate -- not the cost of the headboards!!!!!

Other than that, enjoy!

Don't it always seem to go

Oklahoma Travel
I thought of the song with the line "don't it always seem to go -- you don't know what you got til it's gone" today when I heard from Lawton that the Percussive Arts Museum is closed. If you never visited, you missed a treat. Associated with the national Percussive Arts Association, which is moving to Indianapolis for better accommodations for their conventions, the museum was a delightful collection of musical instruments from all over the world -- and even out of it with one instument with parts made from meteorite material. I understand the Comanche tribe will occupy the space so, hopefully, there will be a new museum there.

The other bit of sad news I've received lately is that Oklahoma's only Polish restaurant, Bozena's in Ft. Gibson, is closed. I'll miss Bozena's great pierogis.

On the upbeat side -- Oklahoma Trails opened this week at the Oklahoma City Zoo. Featuring animals native to the state (in the present and the past), this marvelous exhibit covers not only animals but the plants of Oklahoma's many eco-systems. Well done, zoo.

San Diego Shines

Oklahoma Travel
I don't always stay in Oklahoma, and, this time, I just returned from warm, sunny San Diego -- a great place to be when it's cold in Oklahoma. Future articles will feature Balboa Park which I think is the country's greatest urban park -- yep, even better than Central Park. The big news is the Dead Sea Scrolls exhibit scheduled to open at the San Diego Natural History Museum. Opening June 29 and running through the end of the year, this exhibition will feature the largest, most comprehensive exhibit on the Dead Sea Scrolls ever assembled. It includes materials both from the the Israel Antiquities Authority and the Jordanian Department of Antiquities. Other items will be brought in from the Russian National Library, the British National Library and the Ecole Biblique in Jerusalem. Other parts of the exhibit highlight the Qumran site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found, the science involved in dating and preserving the materials, and, using more contemporary writings, how ideas are transmitted over time. Scholars and experts will also be presenting lectures on everything from "The Archaeology of Qumran and the Dead Sea Scrolls" to "Jesus,l the Dead Sea Scrolls, and the Da Vinci Code." For more information, click on www.sdscrolls.org.

Oklahoma Travel

Oklahoma Travel
O is for Oklahoma and Ohio Amish

As I mentioned in my Edmond Sun article, the Amish group tours are probably not the best bets for traveling with younger children. The best way to learn more about the Amish and let your kids absorb at their own level is to visit the Yoder's Amish Home on State Route 515, close to Millersburg in Holmes County, Ohio. This 116-acre Amish farm has lots to attract the visitor. You can tour both an 1866 Amish home and a contemporary one. Take a ride in an Amish buggy; pet farm animals; see an Amish school house or just swing on a swing underneath the big trees. Yoder's is open from mid-April through October. Call (330)-893-2541 for more information.

Here in Oklahoma, the largest concentration of Amish is around the eastern Oklahoma town of Chouteau. You can buy Amish cheeses produced both locally and from other communities at the Amish Cheese House. Amish baked goods are available at Ropp's while Amish-style meals are served at the Dutch Pantry. If you're traveling with a group, contact the Chamber of Commerce (918) 476-8222 about dining in an Amish home.

Every year people flock to Clarita (this year it's September 9th) for the Amish Auction, Crafts and Antique Show at the Ben Troyer farm. Call (580) 428-3458 for more information.

Oklahoma Travel

Arcadian Inn, Edmond, Oklahoma
I mentioned the Arcadian in my last blog as one of my favorite B and Bs in Oklahoma. Since it's right here in town, I don't visit often but I know I can count on owner/innkeeper Martha Hall.

I'm doing a food column for the Edmond Sun on B and B recipes so I called Martha and asked if I could come take some pictures and get one of her recipes. She had guests coming and she said she'd ask them if they minded.

I showed up at the specified 9:30 this morning to find that they did! Seems one of the party had been to the inn before -- with another partner -- and was feeling camera shy.

Martha hadn't called to cancel the photos -- she simply fixed an entire extra breakfast for me to photograph! That's typical of the hospitality people can expect at the Arcadian Inn.

And the breakfast was superb. Of course, I sampled it -- strictly in the line of duty.

I'll include photos in the next blog -- after I figure out how to do it!

Oklahoma Travel

In answer to a question about b and bs in Oklahoma -- here are a few of my favorites:

Arcadian Inn, Edmond -- Charming Victorian, fab food and walking distance from a lovely downtown with lots of public art and interesting boutiques.

Aaron's Gate, Guthrie -- Owned by the Halls who own the Arcadian, this one is a clutch of cottages in the woods. Really away from it all, each cottage has many amenities and a ready-to-do-it-yourself breakfast so you can sleep in as long as you want.

Montford Inn, Norman -- a Select Registry property, that says it all. Great accommodations, afternoon lemonade and cookies, great breakfast and a fun college town.

Inn at Price Tower, Bartlesville -- fulfill a fantasy in a Frank Lloyd Wright skyscraper.

Stardust Inn, Medicine Park -- I love this funky little town, the big porch at the Inn, the beautiful Indian art and its proximity to the Wichita Wildlife Refuge. And there's a new winery in the vicinity.

I'd love to hear about your favorites, too.

okietravel

I hope by now you've checked out my website, read my bio and looked at some of my photos. I'm going to try to make it more useful with this blog -- add quick up-dates, travel tidbits and, in this case, make some corrections. Unfortunately, there's occasionally a slip-up somewhere in the ether between what I write and what actually gets printed. I try as hard as I can to be accurate -- and I know my editors do, too. I'll take responsibility for anything I get wrong but, oh, do I hate it when a mistake I didn't make gets in. So, for local Okies who are AAA members, the article on food in central Oklahoma has a picture of an attractive couple in front of their restaurant. They're Leticia and Mario Hernanez and that's the Adobe Grill -- not KhaZana, a very nice, but not pictured, Indian restaurant! For Okies and anyone else who gets AAA Home and Away, in the article on Oklahoma City -- the Oklahoma Trails are not open yet and the Great EscAPE does not have a rainforest with waterfalls. Other than that, I think we're on target. If you don't get the magazine and would like to see the Oklahoma City article, click www.homeandawaymagazine.com/Index_capitol_weekend_ok_city.cfm.
If you try to type this in, put underlines where the spaces are.

okietravel

Dear Friends,

I am creating this blog to share my comments about traveling in Oklahoma, although I welcome comments about visiting other sites as well.

I write a travel in Oklahoma column for the Edmond Sun, a daily newspaper in Edmond, OK.

Elaine Warner

Please visit my web site at www.okietravel.com