The Brown Palace

I've discovered an interesting reaction when I mention the Brown Palace to someone else who's stayed there. They immediately begin to smile. It's a secret code. To stay at the Brown Palace is to love it. By today's standards, the outside is unprepossessing. However, it must have caused jaws to drop when it was built in 1892. Henry Brown built it in a field he'd used for grazing his cows. He spent the unheard of sum of $1.6 million on the building and another $400,000 on the furnishings. Glowing golden Mexican onyx dominated the lobby which was crowned eight stories above with a glorious stained glass ceiling. Lacy cast iron panels topped with a brass railing trimmed each balcony. Arches around the mezzanine held bulbs with metal floral reflectors mounted on hand-painted panels. And guess what -- all that beauty remains. For 116 years the lobby of the Brown Palace has signaled an elegant welcome to its guests.

Tours of the hotel are given each Wednesday and Saturday at 2:00 and provide a great way to see the sights and hear the stories of the hotel. Don't miss the antique silver water fountains which provide water from the hotel's own artesian well 750 feet beneath the hotel. All the hotel's water comes from this source. Antique silver pieces are on display by the entrance to the Palace Arms, the hotel's premier dining room. Inside, you'll also find a small private dining area, the Independence Room where chef's tastings and private parties are held. The wallpaper, created in 1834 in Alsace-Lorraine, is the same paper that hangs in the Diplomatic Receiving Room at the White House.

Every president since Theodore Roosevelt -- with the exception of Calvin Coolidge -- has stayed here. The three presidential suites honor Roosevelt, Reagan and Eisenhower. The Eisenhower suite is the largest. The first lady, Mamie Eisenhower, grew up in Denver and had family here so the Eisenhowers visited Denver often and stayed for weeks at a time.

For the town that's about to host its second Democratic National Convention (the first was in 1908) I was feeling a distinct Republican theme here. I was, however, taken to the Gold Room, an intimate and elegant meeting space, which once served as the Oval Office for President Clinton. I didn't ask if he made use of the Churchill Room -- the hotel's cigar bar!

Tea Party

I just returned from Denver where I was a princess. It can happen to anyone staying at the Brown Palace Hotel. What a marvelous hotel -- one of America's great historic hostelries. My ultimate indulgence was the afternoon tea -- a 115-year tradition. Seated at a small marble-topped table in the lavish lobby, I pretended I was a Victorian lady (sans corset, thank you) as Catherine Rogers poured jasmine tea into my lovely Royal Doulton cup (shades of Hyacinth Bouquet!).

In the background, pianist John Kite provided a beautiful soundtrack of music from classical to romantic favorites from "Phantom of the Opera" and Rogers and Hammerstein (I'm not bothered by anachronisms in my fantasies). Next to my table, a group of girlfriends celebrated a birthday while at another table two young mothers enjoyed a relaxed moment.

This was my final memory of a memorable trip. I'm back in the real world -- not a princess here -- but it was fun while it lasted!

Photos: Tea included Devonshire cream and (clockwise around the plate from upper right) chicken salad with walnuts on honey wheat bread, watercress with tomato butter on brioche, sliced cucumbers with pesto sauce on sour dough, a nine-layer chocolate and mocha centennial cookie, a vanilla plum petit four, the Brown Palace's signature almond macaroon and, in the center, raspberry chocolate mousse tart and berry cheesecake.

Birthday party

A peek at a bit of the lobby -- John Kite at the piano.