Happy Birthday to Me!

The older I get, the longer I like to spread out my birthday. I just had the second day of it. Yesterday I was in Prince William County, Virginia, on a press trip. First big birthday treat yesterday was an email from Jack. Then, at the Marine Museum in Quantico, the press group -- and our Marine docent -- sang Happy Birthday to me in the rotunda of the museum. What a neat surprise. But then at dinner, the restaurant brought out a big dessert with extra spoons and the group sang again and gave me a neat card they'd all signed. So I felt well and truly celebrated yesterday.
I called Jay when I got into town today and he sang to me and he, Carolyn, Austin, Calvin and Alexander came over tonight with prezzies. Tomorrow I'll talk to Zoe and she'll sing to me, too.
I love my birthday!!!!

She's Baaaaaack

Ah, I'm having a life! Last Sunday night -- late -- I sent off the last of my 109,000 words about Tulsa. I know there will be more work to do on it but it feels good to have a little break. If I had my way, the book would never be done -- I really worked hard and put a lot into it but there's always more...... What a great town Tulsa is.

So Monday morning early, we left for Texas so I could catch up with some work that got pushed aside during the book. We spent two nights in Salado -- the most delightful little village. People speed by on I-35 -- it's between Waco and Austin -- and never realize what a historic and charming spot they're missing.

Jack and I finally got around to celebrating our 48th wedding anniversary with a sentimental dinner at the Stagecoach Inn. Part of this historic inn dates back to 1860. The recipes are pure 1940s -- they're so popular that the restaurant can't change them! Jack and I ate here the first time about 43 years ago. We were on our way to Padre with my folks. We've stopped a couple of other times -- once when Zoe was showing her horse in Waco over Thanksgiving. Jay and Carolyn were in Austin where Jay was finishing his master's. Mom and Dad were there and of course Zoe and Jack and me.

Honest to goodness, this place has the best hushpuppies in the entire world. We talked to Morris Foster who now owns the place and he told us that the only ingredients are cornmeal, water and oil -- but the water has to be 40 degrees and the hushpuppies must be hand-rolled. Whatever, they had the most delicate crust -- as thin as the first skin of ice on an October pond. And inside, hot, light and wonderful.

I managed to wade in the creek twice -- once behind our bed and breakfast and the next day to get a good photo of Sirena, the little mermaid who sits by one of the springs that feeds the creek. Today I interviewed Kay Campbell at Paint Rock. There are over 1500 Native American pictographs on the bluffs on their property. She and her husband have been married 59 years and they are the most delightful couple. Kay showed me an article Rogayle Franklin wrote about her in AAA Texas Journey. She got a kick out of the fact that the youngsters in California, who edit the magazine, were concerned about publishing an article about someone of her maturity -- figuring she had to be senile or dead! Leslie, no offense intended, but Kay and Fred are probably in much better shape than your staff members will be at the same age! They are a delightful couple and it was a real pleasure to visit with them.

Will you get to see a picture of them? Wish I knew. I'm still having MAJOR computer/photo issues and I couldn't get off the computer long enough to take it back to the guys who messed it up. As soon as I get these Texas articles, plus a Lake Charles/L/Auberge article done for Southwestern Pubs (all due Monday), the computer's headed for the shop!

Blind and Silent

Okay, it's been way too long since I've blogged -- but I have an excuse. First of all, I'm up to my armpits in the Tulsa guidebook project. Time is fleeting and the word count isn't rising nearly fast. But worse than that -- the last time I had my computer worked on, when it came back, the program that I use to upload my photos to the computer had disappeared. So I haven't been able to get my pics off the camera -- all nine million England photos are just sitting there. I'm headed to Tulsa for two days so Jack is taking the computer back to Computerzone. I'll keep you posted.

Legless but Smiling

That's the slogan for Scrumpy produced by Healey's Cornish Cyder Farm -- and how I feel about our trip. We've done a LOT of walking. Some days we'll get back to the flat and I'll think I can't possibly make it up the stairs -- but I always do.


The Cyder Farm was lovely -- with acres of trees in bloom. They produce not only Scrumpy -- a traditional hard cider which was actually, at one time, a method of payment for farm workers -- but a number of different wines, jams, jellies, chutneys and even straight apple juice.

Parts of the buildings are 100 to 150 years old and there is a small museum with antique tools and equipment on the property. We took the tour, sampled the products and spent money in the gift shop. Jack forgot to bring a hat and his head has been getting red so now he sports a jaunty, green baseball cap with the "Legless but Smiling" motto.



Zoe's a whiz at driving here -- we've ginned all over the countryside -- through large towns like Truro and Falmouth and tiny hamlets with names like Water Ma Trout and my favorite, Praze-an-Beeble. Sounds like a pentacostal church service.

This day we went to Mousehole (pronounced Mouw-zel) and, yes, that's a two-way street. Mousehole has a lovely little harbor, interesting shops and galleries and Nigel Hallard. We were lucky to catch him in his gallery/studio-- wish I could afford one of his paintings. Here he's working on a painting of St. Michael's Mount -- a favorite subject for painters including J.M.W. Turner.



As you can see, it was a beautiful day for walking. Weather watching here is frustrating because, even with a sky like this, it's just as likely to become totally overcast and raining in 15 minutes! I spend a lot of time putting on layers and taking layers off!




Meanwhile, back at the flat, we have a fairly regular visitor. Zoe's named him Bandit and he's a shameless beggar of bread.

I Promised You Photos --

And here are pictures of the ecclesiastical furnishings at Newlyn's Trinity Church. Copper work by Michael Johnson; woodwork by Dave Need.

Room with a View

This is the view that greets me when I look south out of my front window in the morning. That's Newlyn, the next village over. The last time we were here Jack and I went to church in Newlyn. Julyan Drew, the minister who did Zoe and Simon's blessing ceremony, is the minister at Trinity Methodist Church there. Julyan was just as impressive this time as the last time -- he's an intelligent, engaging preacher and his message was thought-provoking and inspiring.

On our last visit we were so taken with the beautiful copper and oak lectern, baptistry and furnishings that we wanted to meet the man who made them. We achieved half our goal. The coppersmith is Michael Johnson, a wonderful artist and craftsman. We visited with him in his studio -- Newlyn Copper Works -- on Friday. Michael worked with woodworker Dave Need who made all the beautiful oak pieces.

Newlyn was once noted for its superb copper creations and Michael is working to restore that reputation. Here he is with a monstrance he created in memory of a friend. We took pictures of the church pieces this morning and I'll add them when Zoe downloads my photos.



This is a photo I took on the walk back from Newlyn. We walked along the shore -- this is looking north to Penzance. You can see the steeple of St. Mary's church on the right.



One of the little shops along the way had fresh, Cornish strawberries and we couldn't resist. Every single berry was perfectly ripe and luscious -- unlike the ones we get at home where half of the berries in the basket are, if not downright green, at best a sickly pink! And these tasted as good as they looked.



For a report on our trip to the Seal Sanctuary, check Teddy's blog -- Teddietravel.blogspot.com

Garden Heaven at Heligan

Jack and I wanted to come to England in the spring because we love rhododendrons and today we saw some amazing ones. They towered over us -- one was 75 feet across at the crown. We visited the Lost Gardens of Heligan south of St. Austell -- I think it was about 40 miles from here. The day was overcast but didn't look threatening and we lucked out -- no rain while we were there. It was chilly, but we were dressed warmly enough -- in the 50s with only a slight breeze.

The first manor house was built here in the 12th century and was followed by rebuildings and alterations over the centuries. Earliest records of the gardens date back to the 1700s. They grew and thrived until World War I. Though the property remained in the Tremayne family for 400 years, for various reasons, the gardens were neglected following the war. The family now leases the gardens to a non-profit organization whose goal is not only to restore the beauty of the gardens, but to make it a working estate.


The Giant's Head, in the Woodland Walk, was created by local artists Sue and Pete Hill. Though a totally contemporary creation, it was done in the same spirit that Victorian gardeners had in creating features of interest to enhance the enjoyment of the natural landscape.


Although it is getting close to the end of the season for camellias, many of the plants were still blooming profusely.



Garden areas at Heligan range from exotic and wild to formal and utilitarian. These poppies were in the Flower Garden. Other gardens included the melon yard, vegetable garden, apple orchard and the oldest working manure-heated pineapple pit in England (since the 1800s).

Tropical ferns and giant rhubarb plants flourished alongside magnificent rhododendrons in the Jungle -- a tropical paradise in a deep chasm. The rhodies are definitely the stars of the show this time of year. Some of the plants are approximately 150 years old and were brought from Sikkim, Bhutan and Nepal by Sir Joseph Hooker.

Pleased to Be in Penzance

After 22 hours of sitting, waiting, changing planes, sitting some more, running for trains, and sitting some more we finally arrived in Penzance. I slept for 11 hours and Jack slept for 12, then we got on with life -- starting with a walk downtown. This is one of my favorite corners in downtown Penzance.

I took Teddy everywhere we went and took lots of photos of him. Please check his blog at www.teddietravel.blogspot.com for more photos. The rhododendrons are just starting to bloom and we tucked Teddy onto a branch to take his picture. The result was a bit obscene so Zoe remedied the situation with a strategically placed blossom. Zoe and I picked up a couple more fallen blossoms and tucked them behind our ears. Look at the size of those things -- the blossoms, not our ears!


After dinner we walked down to the beach across the street. It was a bit chilly but still beautiful.

The swans didn't seem to mind.

Spring Has Sprung

Between my travels and working on the guidebook, I've been slacking on blogging. So here's a quick catch-up -- but please hang with me. I'm going to go silent again for a bit but I promise I'll be back and be better!
Last week I spent time in Knoxville. What a great town! The azaleas and dogwood were absolutely stunning. And we were there for the Rossini Festival -- ate some great Italian food. I didn't actually hear any Rossini (they're doing "Barber" next year) but I did attend a marvelous "Pagliacci." The voices and orchestra were wonderful and the Tennessee Theatre was a beautiful setting.
Knoxville was a real treat. For a town of about 200,000, it packs all the amenities of a major metropolis. Art, music, food, great public spaces, interesting museums -- wow! -- there wasn't enough time to do and see everything and I'd love to go back.

P.S. I'm having serious issues both with photos on the blog and with photos in general. If you have any suggestions -- I'd be most appreciative. I really want that poster picture at the bottom of the blog -- but I can't get it to move!

And when my computer came back from the repair shop, the program that used to pop up when I plugged in my card reader or put a CD with photos in the CD drawer now has disappeared. It had a blue border and choices like "View as a slide show" and "Upload photos to computer" and "Open a folder to view contents." I have no idea what the program's name is -- it just used to appear as if by magic. AND I WANT IT BACK!!!!!! I went to Moto-Photo and put my Knoxville pics on a CD so I could erase my card, but I'm having issues getting them on to the computer. The program I'm using I have to do one at a time and it puts them on the desktop! Since there are over 200 photos on that CD, this is not a good solution!

Am I Blue?

I am, as the French say, "a woman of a certain age" but I certainly don't feel old. So it constantly surprises me when other people treat me like I am. It happened the other night in St. Louis. And it's sort of a bad news/good news kind of thing. Fearless leader and hostess extraordinaire Mary Hendron took me and two other writers to a blues club -- Beale on Broadway. I must admit that 10:30 is usually my bed time so it did feel a bit odd to be heading out at that time of night (must be an old lady thing). The club was packed and Miss Kim Massie was ruling. The room was not large and we headed toward the back since there were no seats. As you can see, I had a pretty good view -- until the next wave of blues-lovers came in. I always hope for a convention of "little people" because, otherwise, I'm not going to be able to see over anybody. So I squeezed through the crowd and found a spot up by the front door. I stood there quite a while, totally enjoying myself, when the manager saw me, brought a chair and put it at a table (already occupied by another party!) right up in front. Now I was comfortable, happy and I could see. But it also bothered me -- did she do it because I look old? Nah! I'm sure she was just being polite -- nevermind that there were a lot of other women standing up -- and I'll continue to believe that until the next boy scout tries to help me across the street!

Big Hit in St. Louis

My SATW Traveling Teddy and I made a nostalgic return to the city of his birth! Teddy was born in the Build-a-Bear Workshop -- headquarters, St. Louis. Though we didn't go to the factory, we did go to the BABW in Busch Stadium -- the first ballpark location for the company. Teddy watched while I made a Fredbird (the Cardinals' mascot) and other writers (Bob made a bear and Phil made a big Clydesdale named Clyde and a little one named Dale) and Mary Hendron made their little friends.

Teddy's becoming my alter ego and does things I wouldn't have nerve enough to do -- like asking Albert Pujoles and Mike Shannon to pose for pictures with him. Since he was so bold, I got in the pictures, too.

Teddy also got a new outfit -- a Cardinals' uniform. And he modeled an All-Star shirt. What a little ham. He thinks he's a real celebrity now!

Georgia on my Mind

Oh, man, life is going way too fast. And I'm traveling way too much. And I'm writing way too little. But enough about me. Oh, I forgot, it IS all about me. So here's what I did last week -- went to Atlanta for the SATW Central States Chapter meeting. Was it fun? You bet.

I'm leaving tomorrow morning for St. Louis -- think baseball, beer and botanic garden -- so this is a quickie with just a couple of the many highlights of the Atlanta trip.

The first full day of the meeting -- with professional development in the a.m. and city tours in the p.m. -- it was drizzly and rainy. And sometimes it just flat poured. We toured the Martin Luther King, Jr. Historic Site and Birthplace and the Carter Presidential Museum. I was so looking forward to that -- only to be told not to bother with notes because they were about to redo everything but the replica Oval Office! The grounds were lovely, though too wet to get out in. Still, you can see from the picture that the azaleas and dogwoods were in full bloom.

The next morning -- 6 a.m. and 53 degrees to be precise -- we took a Segway tour of downtown -- went around the capitol and through the Georgia State campus. I was brilliant -- I wore long underwear under my clothes, put my knit bandeau (which Margo Lakin says looks like I have a maxipad tied on my head) under my bicycle helmet, pulled on my gloves and I was comfortable -- could have gone for hours. Some of my companions got a little cool. That's me -- just look for the lowest helmet in the group!

That night Zoe's and my friend, Jana Keeler, (who used to live in OKC but has moved back to her hometown of Atlanta) had a short visit before our Dine-Around. She suggested picking me up at my hotel and taking me to the restaurant early -- she could eat dinner and I could have a Diet Coke while I waited for the group. We had a great visit and the restaurant -- One Midtown Kitchen -- was a delight. I'm not a calamari fan -- but if I'd had theirs first, I would be and just realize nobody else fixes it as good. So I guess I'm a One Midtown Kitchen calamari fan.

Saturday was a really beautiful day. That was the day we went to Oakland Cemetery where Margaret Mitchell is buried. The photos might have been more effective if it had been rainy that day but still, the blue sky and the gorgeous flowers were awfully pretty. This lion statue, reminiscent of the Lion of Lucerne, represents the dying Confederacy and commemorates the unknown soldiers who are buried in this section of the cemetery.

Sunday I came home. I miss the great bed at the Marriott Marquis. I loved the hotel, loved my room on the 36th floor, but it's good to be home. Now I have to go pack!

Red, White and Blue, Blue, Blue and Leaning to the Left

Okay, if you don't think that November 4th was one of the greatest days in American history -- or if you still have your W sticker on your car, skip this post entirely. I rarely get partisan on this site but I'm about to, so be warned.

On my recent trip to Brenham, one of the stops on the schedule was at the George Herbert Walker Bush Presidential Library and Museum. Let's see, which would I rather do -- go there or have root canal? Well, I didn't have a choice. So I went and I behaved -- mostly.

I did almost lose it when I saw the sign forbidding photography in the replica Oval Office. I went to the visitors' desk and asked about permission and was sent to the front desk to a young man who was about as interested in my problem as I was in the museum. I explained that I was with the group of writers and usually we were allowed to photograph whatever we wanted. He said he was pretty sure I couldn't. I asked for the p.r. person and he told me he/she had just left. He added that in the two years he'd been there, they'd never made an exception that he knew of. Which just shows what he knows!

I have to insert here that for only $9, the docent would take my picture in the Oval Office, so there was a profit motive going on -- exactly like getting your picture with Air Force One at the Reagan Museum.

I went back to the group, my feathers as ruffled as any righteously indignant hen, and was passing on the news when the museum director walked by. We grabbed him and asked him -- and got permission.

I had Teddy, my SATW traveling teddy, with me and I took lots of pictures to send back to Mrs. Kysar's class. And, trust me, Teddy will be respectful when he blogs about the visit.

On the way out. someone asked me how I enjoyed the museum. We try not to talk politics on press trips -- but usually you know where people stand. (Oh, yeah, "liberal" media, I hear some of my r.w. friends saying -- I prefer to think of it as "educated and intelligent" media. )

I ducked the question but replied that Teddy enjoyed it a lot and went on to describe all the places Teddy had his picture taken -- sitting on GHWB's knee (okay, it was just a statue), in front of the White House play house, reading a book in the children's library, in front of a piece of the Berlin Wall. A voice from the back of the group intoned, "Tonight we must burn Teddy!"

I thought it was pretty funny. Almost as funny as the group member who wore an Obama 08 ball cap and put it on the GHWB statue for a photo!

I really don't dislike President Bush -- he served his country well in many ways. I just wish he and Barbara had been more careful with their birth control!

Bluebonnet Bounty

I just got back from a marvelous trip to Brenham, Texas, one of the country's coolest towns. It's charming, laid-back, off-the-beaten-track and altogether nifty. And this time of year, surrounded by fields of bluebonnets, Indian paintbrush, evening primroses and wild verbena.

We did a lot of neat things -- and I'll be blogging more about them in the future -- but maybe my favorite was driving the backroads and taking photos.

The only thing I could have asked for was a blue sky. It was mostly overcast -- with an absolute downpour last night. But they really need the rain there so I won't complain too much. I hope you enjoy the photos.

This photo was taken right before an old lady drove up and told us to get off her private road! Our guide from the CVB, Lu, apologized to us and made soothing noises about how she might have had bad experiences with people coming on her property, etc. Frankly, I think she was just a cranky old lady whose clip on earrings pinched and furthermore, I'm pretty sure she's not a native Texan because they are unfailingly friendly and hospitable.

One-armed Paper Hanger

Accckkkkk!!!!!! I am having a terrible time finding time to blog! I have great intentions but this book project is eating my lunch. I spent three days in Tulsa this week -- more checking out restaurants (still lost a pound this week, YEA ME!), hotels, shops, you name it. I did manage to get to the zoo and took Teddy, the SATW traveling bear with me. Teddy managed to blog to Mrs. Kysar's classroom. So if you want to keep up with me, check Teddietravel.blogspot.com. I'm leaving in the morning for five days in Texas. I can't really afford the time, but I made the commitment before I got the book deal. Hopefully, I'll catch up with you a bit when I get back. I'm looking forward to seeing the bluebonnets.

Taste of Tulsa

One of the nights I spent in Tulsa I stayed at the Hotel Ambassador -- a renovated beauty, now Tulsa's premier boutique hotel. And I'd put it up against ANY hotel in Tulsa. It's one of my all-time faves. It's also home to the Chalkboard Restaurant, a bijou of a bistro. As I've mentioned, I'm a Weight Watcher and checking out the eateries in T-Town is tough. I've eaten at the Chalkboard in the past -- even tried its signature Beef Wellington -- so, knowing it's excellent, I thought I could get by with just an appetizer and a salad. I figured without Manager Tracy and Chef Paul. They brought me an extra appetizer and two desserts! There were four young women at the next table and I brazenly barged in and asked if they'd like to try some of the goodies. (I tried to be kind of sneaky -- I didn't want Tracy and Paul to think I didn't appreciate their consideration. I got caught but they were cool with it.) And I did taste some of everything. I ate one of the two crabcakes I'd ordered and I knew after I finished the first that if I didn't do something drastic, the second one was going to follow the first. The other appetizer was a giant sea scallop on a bed of marinated lentils, garnished with a bit of seaweed salad. The desserts were a bread pudding with white chocolate sauce and strawberries and an apricot mocha cake. Be careful when you look at the pictures. I think you can gain weight just from looking at them!

Deco-rave

I'm learning so much about Tulsa and meeting so many nice people! I spent some time with Alice Froeschle, owner of Bandana Tours, the other afternoon. She gave me a taste of her Art Deco walking tour (plus an extra favorite off the beaten path). Tulsa is noted for a wealth of Art Deco buildings and I saw several amazing examples. First she took me by the 1934 Fire Alarm Building. A Frederick Kershner design, the building has a Mayan Temple theme with an iconic combination of mythic and industrial motifs. This is the place where all the fire alarms in Tulsa were reported -- a state of the art system at the time. A Greek-god-type figure holds alarm tape. Now cut of from the downtown area by Highway 75, the building stands,renovated but out of the limelight it deserves.


It's hard to pick a favorite building, but the Boston Avenue Methodist Church has got to be close to the top. Designed by Adah Robinson who founded the art program at the University of Tulsa, its soaring tower punctuates the SoBo (South Boston) landscape. The stained glass windows are as delicate as dragonfly wings and everything directs visitors toward heaven.

Waite Phillips twin downtown towers, the Philtower and the Philcade, are also of prime importance. The Philtower was built first and while it has definite deco touches, it tends to Gothic extravagance. Notice the elaborate fan vaulting.

The Philcade glows like a Midas treasure. The ceiling of the ground floor arcade is covered with gold leaf.

We stuck our heads in the Atlas Building, cut through the Mid-Continent Building and ended with the 320 Boston Building -- originally the National Bank of Tulsa. The first ten floors were built in 1917 but the building was added on to later.


Alice's tours generally cover a larger area; there were several important buildings we didn't see. I simply ran out of time and energy. But, fortunately, I will be back many times and I plan to see lots more of Tulsa's architectural treasures.

Oh my gosh, this guidebook thing is consuming my life!!!! I haven't had time to blog or check anyone else's blog. So here's a quickie. Jack and I made a research trip to Tulsa last Friday and I found a treasure. It's no big secret -- lots of people know this -- but, just in case you, like I, hadn't tried it. Here are directions. Go directly to the Palace Cafe on the northeast corner of Cherry Street (15th) and Peoria. Food -- fantastic. And, best of all, there were some great choices for light and healthy eating. I hate to say that because, in the past, I would shy away from those selections because the usually tasted .... well, light and healthy. I have for the past three months been seriously Weight Watchering. As opposed to the years before when I was casually weight watchering and not losing anything. Now here comes this guidebook project and at least three dozen restaurants to check out and I'm feeling a bit panicked. If they were all like the Palace Cafe, I'd be in like a porch-climber! Can't say enough about presentation, taste, portion -- Chef James Shrader has it all. He also has dishes that will harden your arteries upon reading them on the menu. And I'm sure they taste great. But if you're like me and you enjoy eating out and you don't enjoy feeling deprived -- this is a great place to go. They're open for lunch Tuesday through Friday from 11 to 2; dinner Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 10 and Sunday brunch from 9 to 2.

Photo: Shrimp Spring Rolls with Asian slaw

Wild Week

Oh, my, what a week! Deadlines were coming out of my ears -- articles on the OKMozart festival in Bartlesville, the Norbeck Scenic Byway in South Dakota and munching my way through Fredericksburg, Texas. And Monday night, grandson Calvin competed in a speech contest sponsored by the Edmond Rotary Club. Of course I'm biased but I'm also right. He was the best. He'll be competing in the district contest in April. Needless to say his grandfather and I were proud!

Then I got a call from an editor about a guidebook to Tulsa. I'm going to do it but it scares the foo out of me -- more words than I've ever written and of course, it was due yesterday! I'm going to have to learn everything there is to know about Tulsa from the attractions and restaurants to the schools, senior facilities and yoga classes and bus schedules! Recommendations are welcome!

And last night was a great night out for Valentine's Day.

Oh, I forgot. We had a tornado. It clipped the northwest corner of Edmond -- no where near us -- but a sad week for many in the state. The weather was wonderfully warm -- part of the creation of the storm. It's gotten cold again, which I hate, but at least we're safer.