A Broad Abroad: An Okie Traveller Out & About

Upbeat and Down Under

2011-11-11T16:02:00.001-08:00

No, not Australia. I'm in New Zealand -- which I will never again think of as an appendage to the larger country. New Zealand may be smaller in size but it totally rules in beauty of landscape, variety of terrain and the kindness, generosity and friendliness of the Kiwis -- what the locals call themselves. And they have a cheekiness that is irresistible. New Zealand is the Michael J. Fox of nations -- not large but so appealing!
We've seen everything from glaciers to forest glades (where we had a proper tea), driven in one rushing river and jetboated up another one. Last night's Gala closing dinner for our Society of American Travel Writers Conference (why I'm here) was amazing and I have the pictures to prove it -- just have to get home and upload the 600+ photos I've taken in the last nine days. Shameless, I got down on the floor to get the right angle on the Black Tower of Isengard

and Jack and I posed (several times) with a couple of Orcs. If you're not a Lord of the Rings fan, this will mean nothing. If you are -- be damned impressed!

Yesterday was a wine tour -- and we also did an olive oil tasting. Lunch at the Coney Winery was superb -- needless to say, lamb here is excellent. The Martinborough Vineyard is noted for its pinot noirs -- but I was most impressed with the flowers, both wild and cultivated.

Tuesday afternoon we visited a spectacular garden -- 400 rhododendrons in bloom -- and me without a camera! I left the battery in the hotel room in the charger. RATS!
This morning the whole event was capped off with a champagne brunch sponsored by Air New Zealand. Wonderful food and the most delightful program by the "Cuddly Cook" Annabelle White. Talk about high energy -- and funny -- but you had to be there.

I'm going to miss New Zealand. There's so much we didn't see -- it would be worth the butt-busting trip to come back again -- but only if I can fly Air New Zealand!

My White Knight

2011-10-31T22:03:00.000-07:00

Chivalry did not die with Don Quixote. If you read my blog a couple of days ago, you read about my losing my hat in a ravine. I took this picture the next day -- when it wasn't raining -- and you can see the bridge I was standing on and the gorge it crosses. I really hated losing that hat. Imagine my surprise the next day when we were about to get on the bus and leave; Richard Frisbie, who shall forever be my champion, presented me with the hat. It was totally soaked but none the worse for wear. Richard had gone for an early morning walk and climbed down into the gorge and retrieved it!

That was not his only act of kindness. Throughout the trip he was unfailingly cheerful and never lost patience when one or the other of us got a little tired and cranky -- or just plain diva-ish. Then at our dinner the last night, he noticed I was shivering because the private dining room where we were going to eat was chilly. Next thing I know, he's talked the waitress out of a tablecloth and is draping it around me. And I was cold enough that I wore it all through dinner. I have no pride where my comfort is concerned! I called Richard my knight -- but I was wrong. He's absolutely a prince!

Just Desserts

2011-10-26T06:58:00.000-07:00

Oh, my gosh, I´ve just had heaven on a plate! The food in Spain is amazing and the quantities they are serving us would feed a small -- or maybe not so small -- army. We are in the parador in Almagro, a charming and beautiful town. For lunch we were served a local specialty for an appetizer -- pickled eggplant stuffed with pimiento and garlic. The dish dates back to the Muslim tradition -- the Moors occupied Spain for several centuries. The first course was cod topped with julienne vegetables and "foam of potato" -- sort of a thinned mashed potato thingie. Totally full -- and having left a lot of food on my plate -- I made the mistake of looking at our menu only to discover that a second entree was coming. The pork plate, with potato and vegetables, went practically untouched. I played with my food so it would look like I´d eaten some! Then came dessert -- fritters of Calatrava with bitter almond sauce and quince sherbet. It was fabulous.
We´re off to the town where it is tradition that Cervantes was imprisoned and where he began his masterwork. Bet I sleep on the bus!!!!

The Rain in Spain.....

2011-10-25T00:39:00.000-07:00

Is not only on the plain. Yesterday it was in the hilly country between Alcala de Henares and Cuenca. I loved Alacala de Henares -- not far from Madrid, it was the birthplace of Miguel Cervantes. And the point of this trip is to follow the route of Don Quixote (which I am reading on my Kindle every chance I get). The weather was lovely the first day and our walking tour around town a delight. The parador is the newest of the 90+ paradors owned by the Spanish government. I´ve stayed here before and it was like going home -- to the most technically up to date, comfortable room -- except it´s built around a centuries-old convent.
Last night we stayed in the parador in Cuenca -- it, too, was a convent. While it has all the conveniences, the decor is more traditional and I felt like a Spanish princess when I opened the shuttered window to see, across a deep gorge, the "hanging houses" of the old city.
It rained most of yesterday -- the wind broke my umbrella and sent my rain hat (a special souvenir of a very windy day in Oxford) over the bridge and down, down, down into the gorge. Still, it was worth it to see this beautiful old town.
The rain stopped late in the day and the lighted, wet streets made colorful photos - which, since I left my large camera in the room and carried my point-and-shoot, will probably come out fuzzy. You´ll have to take my word for it.
The food ranges from excellent to "interesting" and there´s way too much of it. It´s going to be hard holding on to my old-girlish figure on this trip!
Must fly -- time and the bus wait for no one!

Grandmom-a-go-go

2011-10-20T21:07:00.000-07:00

Wow! I can't believe how long it's been since I've blogged. (Though those of you who check my Traveling Teddy's blog -- www.teddietravel.blogspot.com -- know that the bear has checked in a bit more often.) I've been on the road BIG time. And I'm fixin' (that's how we get ready here in Oklahoma) to hit the highway again. So here's a quick catch-up on where I've been since the first of September.

Jack and I (with our dog, Roxie) made a road trip to Ennis, Texas to experience some Czech heritage. The picture above is a beautiful costume (called a kroj, pronounced kroy) at the Sokol Hall museum -- one of several Czech dance halls. And, of course, we had some great Czech food. Sweet kolaches and spicy klobase were big favorites.

The Travel Media Showcase -- a kind of speed-dating for destinations and travel writers -- was held here in OKC and I played tourist. We started with a trip to eastern Oklahoma to explore the Cherokee heritage there. In Tahlequah, a number of the street and road signs are bi-lingual.

At the Ancient Village at the Cherokee Heritage Center we watched demonstrations of native crafts and skills. Scott Ennis posed with Batman (yep, that's what the kids named the bear).

Jack and I made a quick but fun-filled trip to Fort Worth. We traveled down on the Heartland Flyer -- I heart the train. We had a great dinner with McKenzie Zieser at Reata.

We spent a lot of time on our feet the next day -- four museums after lunch. So I was ready for some pampering at the spa at the Omni. I'm getting my toenails painted with OPI's "It's Totally Fort Worth It."

Last week I spent four days in Florida. Though Apalachicola was the main destination, I stayed in a beach house on St. George Island. It was gorgeous -- right on the beach -- and I slept with the balcony door open so I could go to sleep with the sound of the surf.

The seafood in Franklin County is the best! I'm not a big raw oyster fan but I'll eat them here. They're unbelieveably fresh and good. It didn't do a lot for my appetite, however, when our guide at the Apalachicola National Estuarine Research Reserve told us that the oysters are still alive when we eat them. Ugh, I ate that little oyster when its teeny heart was still beating! I had no such qualms when Chef Brett Gormley served bacon-wrapped grouper stuffed with fresh crabmeat.

It was wonderful to get up early and watch the sun rise over the ocean. I really like this shot -- I think it looks almost like an abstract painting.

Paging Dr. Warner

2011-08-29T12:50:00.000-07:00

For years, Wisconsin remained a state I hadn't visited. Finally, in 2008, I made it to Door County. Since then I've been back twice and every time I find more and more to like about the state. I love the lovely green landscape, the passionate Cheeseheads -- and their amazing headgear -- the cheese and so much more. And like so many places with impressive attractions, it also has some little, quirky treasures. I'd have to say the National Mustard Museum heads that list.

It's located in Middleton in the metropolitan Madison area. Barry Levenson is the founder and chief cheerleader. An attorney, he's a former assistant state's attorney general and an adjunct professor of food law at the University of Wisconsin. And he has a wild and wicked sense of humor.

The Mustard Museum features over 5000 mustards from every state in the union and more than 60 countries. The museum store carries mustards from many of these places -- and features a mustard tasting bar.

The museum itself is an exploration of mustard history and includes displays of antique mustard pots, advertsing and actual jars of the condiment. Guests can view a video in the Mustardpiece Theatre. It's also a seat of higher learning with school songs like "Roll Out the Mustard" and university fight songs. And I, myself, received a diploma from this institution.

As you can see, I am now a D.D.S. -- Doctor of Diddley Squat. And my alma mater -- Poupon U.

After receiving my credential, I headed for the school store for memorabilia. Here's one of my favorites.

Swiss Is More Than Just Cheese!

2011-08-02T17:50:00.000-07:00

This is Chef Roland Furst at the New Glarus Hotel in New Glarus, Wisconsin, preparing cheese fondue. I'll put the printed recipe in this post -- but notice that he varied it by using several different kinds of cheese and he also added dill. In additiion, he had prepared an entire Swiss meal for us:

jaegerschnitzel, wienerschnitzel, geschnetzlets, roesti, spaetzli, salad, hot rolls, and, for dessert,

Napoleon topped with fresh strawberries. The meal was wonderful; the atmosphere authentic Swiss (the town was founded by 108 Swiss immigrants); and we ate to the accompaniment of yodeling and an alpenhorn.

Here's the New Glarus Hotel recipe for Cheese Fondue
1 clove garlic

1 1/2 cups dry white wine

1 Tbsp. lemon juice

1/2 pound Swiss cheese

1/2 pound Gruyere cheese

1 rounded Tbsp. flour

Pepper and nutmet to taste

2 loaves crusty Italian or French bread

Grate the cheeses and dredge with the flour. (You can do this in advance and keep refrigerated in a tightly closed plastic bag.) Cut bread in one-inch cubes. Each cube should have crust on one side.

Rub the inside of the fondue pot with the cut garlic clove. Heat wine in a the pot over medium heat until hot but not boiling. Add lemon juice. Add cheese by handfuls, stirring in pepper and nutmet to taste. Bring to a boil, then remove from the stove and place on a lighted fondue burner on the table.

Enjoy!

Maine-ly Lobster

2011-07-23T19:51:00.000-07:00

It has a face only a mother could love -- the rest of us love it for other reasons. And the best place in the world to eat lobster is on the coast of Maine. Our press group had ample opportunities to try this indigenous delicacy and we got a great lesson in lobster lore from Buddy Hall, owner of Anglers in Searsport, Maine.

Here Buddy is giving us a tutorial in lobster sexing. I promise I will never be trying it out myself -- all those creepy claws and legs will keep the lobster's secrets secret. Female lobsters can carry their eggs up to two years -- the last half of the time they are glued to the underside of her tail. When a lobsterfisherperson (yes, there are lobsterwomen) catches a female with eggs, he cuts a notch in her tail and tosses her back so if she gets caught again, she will be released. That keeps the population going.

In young lobsters, the claws are about the same size but as the animal grows, they differentiate into the larger crusher claw and smaller pincher claw.

The lobster's face is interesting. I could identify the eyes easily enough but I'm not sure I could find the mouth. Buddy did -- and, wh0 knew -- lobsters have teeth!

Here's a sampling of lobster dishes we tried: lobster salad,

the ubiquitous lobster roll,

and the whole lobster. I deliberately chose a small lobster (notice the claws) because I discovered that, with my braces, lobster takes a lot more chewing than without them. I managed to get through both claws and about 1/3 of the tail about the same time everyone else at the table was finishing dessert!

This is part of the group the night we ate at Weathervane in Belfast. Are we having fun yet? You bet!

Tip to tourists: in choosing a place to eat lobster, look for one that has a pound. This is a tank that circulates sea water around the lobsters. Buddy also told us you could tell how long a lobster had been held in a tank because they start to bite off one anothers' antennae. Avoid the stumpy antennae!

Take Me Away!

2011-07-21T20:52:00.000-07:00

I got a nice break from the oven that is Oklahoma with a trip to Maine. Above is a picture of my snug little cabin in the woods at Lookout Point Resort. Below is the bedroom area of the cabin which had a neat little kitchen and a wonderful screened-in porch.

The resort sits on almost 400 acres of woods sloping up from a small strip of beach. I walked down the hill from my cabin to check out the water. I think it was about 1/2 to 3/4 mile down to the water.

This great dane was having a super time retrieving sticks from the surf. I must be getting old -- I think this is the first time in my life that I've been on the ocean (okay, technically Penobscot Bay) without actually sticking a toe in the water. I just couldn't stand the thought of walking back up the hill with sand in my sandals. And I swear it was five miles back to the cabin -- uphill the whole way!

On one of our outings, we went sailing on the schooner Olad, out of Camden. I'd never been on a sailboat before -- I loved the quiet.

We sailed by this picturesque lighthouse on Curtis Island at the mouth of the harbor.

We were out almost two hours but headed in as we watched the rain moving in. We weren't the only ones headed for harbor.

The rain just missed us and the sun was shining when we docked. Camden is such a pretty town and their harbor is beautiful, too, don't you think?

Going to Waist in Wichita

2011-07-07T22:15:00.001-07:00

I'm eating again! This time in Wichita. I was there working on an assignment about meetings and conventions so I spent a lot of time doing site visits. I did get to see some of the beautiful attractions, though. And talk about feeling pampered -- Carol Jones and the sign at the CVB -- Go Wichita -- couldn't have been more welcoming. My host, Ken Vandruff and his co-worker Rachel Janes took me to lunch at a neat Latin American American restaurant, Sabor, in Old Town. I tried to go light with a wonderful soup -- Sancocho Soup -- a chicken broth (the red color is from a chile paste) with chicken, corn, onion, peppers, plantain, potato and avocado. Not so light -- the appetizers included fried calamari with a pepperoncini garlic mayo and a white cheese queso with corn and roasted tomato served with flatbread triangles!

More site visits after lunch then dinner at Hangar One Steakhouse. I'm not eating steak these days because of my braces but there were several other good choices including the one I ordered -- L-Bird Chicken Pepper Pasta -- diced chicken, mushrooms, artichoke hearts, lemon pepper pasta and a light wine sauce. I righteously rejected any suggestion of dessert!

After dinner, Ken took me out night shooting. The iconic image of Wichita is the Keeper of the Plains which stands on a rock promentory above the Arkansas River.
There's a pedestrian bridge which crosses the river there -- the design reminiscent of native bows -- most attractive.

Breakfast this morning was at the Hyatt where I was staying. Rachel and I split a breakfast burrito. It came with salsa verde, queso, grated cheese and a stuffed mushroom. The burrito was super and the salsa much bolder than I expected. Most restaurants outside the southwest in general and New Mexico in particular just don't "get it." This one did!
We toured the Hyatt and the adjacent convention facilities -- pretty amazing -- then flew by the River District museums -- Botanica, the art museum, the science museum, the American Indian museum and Old Cowtown -- looking, again, at meeting spaces.
And it was time to eat again. This time we pigged out at Pig In Pig Out. The chef-owner, Derek Cochran knows his 'cue -- the walls are covered with ribbons he's won at BBQ competitions. Again, the braces kept me from attacking everything -- but the chopped brisket and the pulled pork worked fine -- and I wound up bringing home containers of both the hot and mild sauces. I'd have brought meat -- but several hours in the car without a cooler seemed a little risky to me.

Wichita was wonderful. I couldn't believe how much is going on there -- lots of cultural opportunities, entertainment and great attractions. Can't wait to go back and play tourist!

Mama's Little Baby Loves -- Bread Pudding

2011-06-19T20:31:00.001-07:00

During our Louisiana trip we tasted a lot of bread pudding. And we were lucky to watch Chef Carlos Russo at the Accidental Chef do a demonstration. It was fabulous (even though he didn't put raisins in) and someday maybe I'll be brave enough to try this recipe.

Bourbon Pecan Bread Pudding

Chef Carlos Russo

1 loaf of French bread

5 eggs

1 can evaporated milk

1 cup of roasted pecans (plus pecans to sprinkle on top)

2 tsp vanilla

1 can condensed milk

1 c. granulated sugar

1/4 tsp cinnamon

crushed pineapple

Combine ingredients, pour into a greased cake pan and let sit for 1 hour. Bake at 350 for 45 minutes.

Bourbon Sauce

1 stick butter

1/4 c. bourbon

1 c. brown sugar

Combine in sauce pan, add bourbon and flambe. (That's the part that has me clucking like a chicken!)

Pour on after pudding is baked.

Let me know if you're brave enough to try this.

Serious about Cheese

2011-06-02T06:24:00.000-07:00

Okay, no more jokes about Wisconsin cheeseheads. I have seen the light! Yesterday our press group toured Henning's Cheese Factory and I have new respect for Wisconsin cheese.

These people are hard core! Did you know that Wisconsin has a Master Cheese Maker designation? I didn't. This hard-won title takes a minimum of 13 years to achieve. Before you can even be considered for entry into the Masters' program, you have to have had your cheesemaking license for ten years and you must have had five years of experience in the cheese you wish to major in. And that title will only apply to that one cheese. You have to qualify again for different cheeses!

Hennings, founded in 1914, is now owned by the third generation of the family -- with a fourth generation in the wings.

Kert Hennings took us through the plant and gave us a thorough orientation. His brother, Kerry, is a Master Cheesemaker of Colby, Monterrey Jack and Cheddar.

I could now give you a mini-dissertation on the conditions required for excellent cheese but it would be more fun for you to find some Henning's cheese and taste for yourself.

A small operation, they do, nonetheless, supply some very large markets -- some of which sell the cheese under their own label. When I get home, I plan to do some research. I'm now a big Hennings cheese fan and it would be worth the search to find this excellent comestible on my own turf.

In Old Louisiana

2011-05-20T20:56:00.000-07:00

Do you know what the oldest town in Louisiana is? I would have guessed New Orleans. But that would have been before I visited Natchitoches. This lovely little town is almost 300 years old. With brick streets and lots of wrought iron, it kicks charm to a new level. It's like a tiny New Orleans without the drunks and naked ladies!

Jack and I are eating our way across Louisiana and made our first stop here. Our home away from home was the Jefferson Bed and Breakfast. Our hosts were Herman and Arlene Mayeaux -- turns out the Mayeauxs had lived in Oklahoma a few years ago and I had actually interviewed him at that time. Small world! Lush gardens surrounded the home and our room was well-appointed and comfortable. And you couldn't beat the view of the Cane River.

I'm an early riser so while Jack continued making zzzzs, I got out early with my camera. I think this is the oldest building on the main street. I don't have my notes with me, so if I'm wrong, I'll edit later. I loved all the lacy balconies.

The author who wrote Steel Magnolias is from Natchitoches and a lot of the movie was filmed here. This was M'Lynn's (Sally Field's character) house in the movie. Built in 1830, it's now a B&B.
Foodies who think Natchitoches think meat pies so we had to try some at Laysone's -- the premier pie producer not only in Natchitoches, but, arguably, anywhere. Their pies are all made by hand and Angela Laysone told us that one of the things that makes their pies unique is the crust. I've tried meat pies twice since then and so far she's absolutely right. One of the pies held the traditional beef/pork mix; the other was a crawfish pie. Laysone's has been featured in a number of the Stern's (of Road Food fame) books, the NY Times, Gourmet, Southern Living and now -- ta da -- this blog.

We were on a tight schedule so we didn't have time to explore the town at our leisure -- but we did stop at Ft. St. Jean Baptiste -- a recreation of the colonial fort established here. Costumed interpreters brought the site to life.

On the way out of town, we visited Oakland, a plantation built in 1803. The house has been enlarged over the years and members of the family lived here up into the 1950s. I loved the oak allee in front.

This area is noted for Creoles and Kate Chopin. The definition of "Creole" varies greatly -- to the point that you can almost take your pick. As for Kate Chopin -- there are probably several words for her. If you want to know what they are, buy my book, Remarkable Missouri Women, when it comes out in January!

Going to Pot

2011-04-18T20:05:00.000-07:00

Last week I was in L.A. -- that's Lower Alabama -- on a press trip and one of our stops was Fort Gaines at the mouth of Mobile Bay on the west side. Fort Morgan is situated on the east side. During the Civil War, these forts were held by Confederate forces.

We had a marvelous interpreter in the person of Park Ranger Joseph Everett, dressed as a Confederate soldier, rank of private, from Louisiana. Seeing military sites usually makes me long for a nap but Ranger Everett gave such a lively account that I found myself enjoying the experience.

And it was impossible to sleep when he fired off this cannon. His tip to those of us who couldn't handle our cameras and cover our ears -- "Keep your mouth open." Guess it worked.

This was the location of the Battle of Mobile where southern forces held the Bay. It was here that Admiral Farragut broke through the blockade with "Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead." Everett explained that the torpedoes were not fired from ships but were floating mines -- something I didn't know before. He also told us that a requirement for soldiers was two front teeth -- necessary to bite the paper end off the cartridge before firing a rifle.

In the blacksmith shop, we were given a demonstration of the smith's craft. Ralph -- I didn't catch his last name -- made several items that would have been used during the Civil War period. He first made a nail and told us that round-nail-making machines weren't invented until the 1890s. Then he fashioned an S-hook, handy for hanging items.

I have to admit that my sense of humor is about the level of a 5th grade boy and my favorite spot was the 10-holer latrine! Talk about togetherness! There were no party poopers -- pardon the expression -- in our group and everyone gamely posed for a group photo.

I Heart Jack Hanna

2011-03-16T21:55:00.000-07:00

I've been writing my fingers to the bone lately -- just not on this blog. I'm feeling guilty because I had a spectacular trip to San Antonio -- lots of highlights -- and I've been too swamped to post. So here's a quick one about one of my favorite moments -- meeting Jack Hanna.

You probably know he's the Director Emeritus of the Columbus Zoo, the modern incarnation of Marlin Perkins and better looking than Jim. (For those of you not old enough, Marlin Perkins started a TV show -- back in the days of black and white -- called Zoo Parade, which was filmed at the Lincoln Park Zoo in Chicago. Perkins is primarily associated with the St. Louis Zoo where he was director until his retirement. It was during this time that he became starred in the Mutual of Omaha show Wild Kingdom -- where he usually got his assistant Jim to do the dirtier jobs like wrangling giant snakes.)

Back to Jack. He was making an appearance at Sea World and we (the travel writers) got to go back stage and meet him. He's not hyper -- like he usually seems on David Letterman's show -- but poised and professional, also relaxed and oh-so-gracious. He made my heart go pitter-pat and I think I might have declared undying love. He neither gagged nor laughed but was totally charming.

Also garnering a lot of attention in the dressing room were two five-month-old cheetahs, Bella and Jacob. They were stretching their legs and chasing one another around the room but we did get to pet them. Their traveling companion is a dog -- who was in his crate during our visit.

Jack Hanna was a delight; Sea World was awesome; and I loved the Shamu show. What a great afternoon!

A Special Valentine

2011-02-05T12:46:00.000-08:00

There's a reason I don't ever throw anything away. I just didn't know it would be this. My dad died in 1997, my mom in 2001. They had been married 67 years, 3 months, when Dad died -- and he loved mom every minute of those years -- even the last ones, when, suffering from Alzheimer's disease, she didn't know who he was.

When Dad died, mom was in a nursing home and I had to clean out his house. He had lots of yellow note tablets and I, never wasteful, brought them home. They've been moved from shelf to closet over the years -- I'd grab one occasionally, but not often. However, since I've been working on a book, I've been taking lots of notes and the stack of pads has gotten smaller.

Yesterday, working hard on my notes, I got to the middle of one tablet to discover my dad's writing. I knew that he'd thought about writing his life's story -- but always gave up in frustration. This was one of those attempts -- and it is precious to me because it's the story of how he met my mother. I don't think I knew they'd known one another less than a week before Dad proposed. They had a long and devoted marriage. I'd like to share his story with you --

"Thursday, March 27, 1930, was the closing day of the annual Kansas City Business Show; just dragging along nearing time to shut down our display booths and straggling out in little groups. I had to drive our Thomas A. Edison Co. manager to his apartment in our company car, and then I was free for the rest of the evening -- with the car.

By pre-arrangement I was to meet later at the apartment of our sales manager and his wife, and be the "blind date" of an attractive young lady (Violet Chandler) from the Underwood Typewriter Co. All went well, just chatting and having some mild drinks.

When the party broke up, I drove my "blind date" home and walked her up to the door. I thanked her for a nice evening, and then I put my foot in my mouth by saying, "Do you expect me to kiss you goodnight?" I couldn't have done worse. The chill was on! She informed me, "I don't expect you to kiss me and I wouldn't LET you kiss me!"

Trying to repair the damage, I said, "Some girls expect to be kissed good-night and some don't. Actually, I would very much like to see you again." I hoped to make a better impression next time. She was agreeable.

The next day, Friday, I phoned Violet at the Underwood Co. office and asked if I might see her on Sunday afternoon. I would have the Ediphone Co. car and we could drive out to Swope Park and see the fabulous display of spring flowers. So it was arranged.

That brings us to Sunday afternoon. She lived out on Chestnut Avenue with relatives and when I arrived, she was there alone. We sat on the divan and talked for a while and the phone rang. From her muffled voice, I imagined what I couldn't actually hear:

He: "Are you busy?"

Vi: "Yes."

He: "How long is he going to be there?"

Vi: "I don't know."

He: "Shall I call back later?"

Vi: "Okay." -- Hung up.

Me: (to myself) "I'm going to out-last that fellow."

Me: (to Vi) "Well, let's drive out to Swope Park."

We did, and returned to her home after a couple of hours. Lo and behold -- soon afterward the phone rang. Just a repeat of the earlier conversation. Again, I determined to out-last that fellow. Keep in mind this is 1930 -- hard times. Especially for me. I needed to do some fast thinking -- which I did.

"Violet, there's a good movie at the Main Street Theater. What would you think of going to a show and then getting something to eat?"

"Okay."

I don't remember the name of the movie so it probably wasn't outstanding. I still had enough money to go to "my favorite place, " the bus station near the theater. Each of us had a 25-cent double-decker toasted ham and cheese sandwich and coffee. And I drove her home.

By that time her folks were home, so we sat in the porch swing and talked for hours. Remember this was Sunday night. We made a date for Wednesday. By this time we were getting in a lot of porch-swing time. I'd long since forgotten my one-time girl friend and Vi's friend Paul had given up. Now was the time for some serious thinking.

The conversation went like this:

Me: "I don't know why it should be so hard for a fellow to propose to his girl if they are in love and want to get married."

Vi: "Well, how would YOU go about it?"

Me: "I wouldn't go through all that on the knee stuff. I'd just put my arms about you and look you in the eyes and say, 'Honey, I love you. Will you marry me?'"

Vi: "Are you proposing to me?"

Me: "Yes, I am. Will you marry me?"

Vi: (after a slight hesitation) "Yes."

Me: "Okay, when shall we get married? Let's start making our plans. First of all, we'll talk it over with our families and friends and you go ahead and announce it to your sorority."

The wedding date was September 27, 1930, six months after the day we met."

How awful if I'd just thrown that tablet away. And what a beautiful Valentine's gift it was to find this story in my dad's own words. On the side of the paper, he had figured exactly how long they'd been married when he wrote it -- 65 years and 3 months.

City of Faith

2011-01-21T13:36:00.000-08:00

Just a block off the Plaza in Santa Fe is the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. The massive Romanesque structure was consecrated in 1887, built under the direction of Bishop Lamy. The first church on the site was built in 1610.

A number of impressive sculptures stand on the grounds. One would expect a statue of St. Francis. This one is quite traditional -- sculpted by Betty Sabo. Another representation, more contemporary, is St. Francis of Assisi Dancing on Water by Monika Kaden. Its exuberance makes me smile.

Also in front of the church is a statue of the Blessed Kateri Tekakwitha, the first Indian of North America to be promoted toward sainthood. Here's what I learned about that. There are four steps to sainthood. The first step is an intial investigation. Completing the second level, the candidate is declared Venerable. The third step is beatification and the candidate is called "Blessed." The final step is canonization. It made me wonder -- we talk about St. Joseph but what about the Blessed Virgin? Any Catholics have the answer? The Blessed Kateri statue is by sculpture Estella Loretto. I love it that all these statues were by women artists.

On our visit to the cathedral, we (the press trip participants) spent most of the time in the St. Joseph Chapel. We were honored to meet the santera who was responsible for painting the reredo behind the altar. (Old school teacher digression -- excuse me if you already know this. A santero or santera is a maker of sacred images. These images, common in Spanish colonial art, are called santos. Paintings of saints on flat panels are called retablos; three dimensional carvings are called bultos. The reredo is the decorated screen behind the altar. This one, like many others, is made up of retablos.)

Arlene Cisneros Sena didn't discover the art form until she was an adult. Now she is one of the foremost painters of santos. "It's teaching the faith -- telling the stories," she says. Her work is widely sought after and she has pieces in a number of museums. In addition, a reliquary, which she made in collaboration with a local jeweler, is in the Vatican.

We had little time to see the rest of the cathedral but I was able to snap a quick picture down the main aisle.

And we made a short visit to another side chapel, a remnant of the 1625 church, dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary, La Conquistadora.

This is the oldest Madonna in America. She arrived in Santa Fe around 1625 and has remained an important icon for the community.

The cathedral is a lovely spot for worship and reflection. We tried to be inconspicuous as we snapped away like frantic tourists!

History and Heritage

2010-12-31T20:20:00.000-08:00

We started our press trip in Albuquerque. We were hosted by Heritage Hotels and Resorts -- an amazing group of properties in New Mexico and Arizona. Founder Jim Long is passionate about preserving the history and heritage of the areas and he does it by taking over hotels and turning them into unique hostelries which feature the arts and crafts important to the area.

The Hotel Albuquerque showcases the Spanish influence in the area. You'll find traditional touches like vigas, latillas, Mexican tinwork, hand-forged chandeliers and artworks that reflect the heritage and landscape of northern New Mexico. Other features pay homage to the Pueblo, Territorial and Western styles so important in Albuquerque. My room was huge -- and comfortable with a fabulous view of the mountains -- the view at the top of this post.

The hotel is a popular wedding destination with facilities to meet every need. The chapel on the grounds is a replica of a small chapel which Jim found in southern New Mexico. In summer -- when I took this picture -- the gate (and nearby pergola) was covered with fragrant wisteria.

I can't go to New Mexico without having huevos rancheros for breakfast and the Cafe Plazuela in the hotel didn't disappoint. I had to try everything so in answer to the definitive New Mexican question, red or green, I requested "Christmas." Both sauces were house-made and excellent.

Hotel Albuquerque is one of seven under the Heritage banner -- I've stayed in three of them and visited another -- my goal is to stay in each of these hotels. Every one is different and very special. In a future post, I'll write about the St. Francis Hotel in Santa Fe. It's a tough job -- but somebody has to do it!

Renaissance Man -- Robert Mirabal

2010-12-22T18:15:00.000-08:00

When my brother heard I was going to New Mexico, he said, "If you're anywhere near Taos, there's the most marvelous musician there. His name is Robert Mirabal and you ought to see if he's performing and go see him."

He couldn't believe it when I told him my itinerary -- we (travel writers on a press trip) were going to get to spend an afternoon with Robert Mirabal. And he's more than just a marvelous musician -- he's an author, an actor, a great cook and an important influence not only in his community but in a much wider context.

We met Robert at the Taos Pueblo -- a great World Heritage site -- the multi-storied adobe structures that have been home to the Taos people for over 1000 years. He walked with us as a lovely young woman named Winona took us on a tour.

Robert has a farm on the Pueblo land and had prepared an amazing lunch for us.

I can't begin to name all the dishes he and his wife Dawn had fixed for us but the menu included blue cornbread, fresh-baked bread, elk stew with wild celery and parched corn, elk with herbs, corn soup, deer meatballs, corn on the cob, pumpkin soup, trout, Indian tea and two different desserts.

While we ate, Robert told us of his efforts to bring farming back to the community. He talked about the traditional importance of corn to his people -- both as sustinance and for use in ceremonies. Farming has become a lost art and Robert and some of his friends are working hard to reintroduce this integral skill.

Robert Mirabal is walking the tightrope between the past and the future -- protecting the traditions of his people while also living as a citizen of the society at large. It's a difficult task but he approaches it with intelligence and dignity. He not only offered us hospitality, he honored us by sharing some of his culture and traditions with us. It was a memorable afternoon.

Family Thanksgiving

2010-11-25T18:12:00.001-08:00

Hurray for family holidays! Today was marvelous! I think the kids topped themselves (pun intended) with their festive Thanksgiving headwear. In keeping with our usual spirit of awe and reverence concerning these occasions, Jack disgraced (pun intended) himself by including a very pointed football request in the blessing.

We welcomed the newest member of the family -- Julie's husband, Jeff Brown. I think he survived -- we'll know next month when we do this all again for Christmas.

We were glad that Carolyn's mom, Sue, and Jack's mom, Mildred, who is 97, could join us.

Austin and Alyssa. Instead of crowding around the dining table (like we usually do), since we numbered 12 now, I set up another table and we went six and six. The people at the "big" table had lots of room. At the "little" table, not so much -- but it was still better than usual and people could actually get out to go to the kitchen for seconds.

My sweet daughter-in-law Carolyn. I told her she probably wouldn't like her eyes in the picture but she said it was the best she could do on cold medicine!

Calvin, home from college. I'd mention the fact that I have the three best looking grandsons in the world, but it is so obvious it shouldn't be necessary.

And they're the most fun. That's Alex in the amazing turkey butt hat.

After dinner we went out to see Austin's new car. He turns 16 on Wednesday. He drove us around the block after announcing that, unlike me, he was going to be an excellent driver.

This was an unnecessary reference to the time when Calvin was 2 1/2 -- and a major snitch -- that he came in from an outing with me and told his mom, "Mom, Grannybird ran a yellow light. She only did it once, but I wish she wouldn't have done it."

Jay must have caught the penchant for making faces for the camera from Austin -- or is it the other way around?

Even the dog celebrated -- though she was less than thrilled at wearing the drumstick headband. It took several bites of turkey to get her over the humiliation.

After dinner -- and the ride -- we engaged in a spirited game of Apples to Apples.

Proof that I was actually in attendance!

Austin, not making a face, showing off his awesome biceps.

Somehow Jack evaded the camera most of the day but the party wouldn't have been complete without him! In spite of our lack of gravitas, we are very aware of our blessings and are thankful for all of them -- especially our family!

Wet and Wonderful

2010-11-23T06:17:00.000-08:00

Yes, there really are eagles at Canyon of the Eagles. Our first full day here we took a Vanishing Texas River Cruise up the Texas Colorado River (which is dammed up farther down, creating Lake Buchanan). The 24-mile round trip took us past miles of (practically)virgin terrain -- protected by large ranches, invaded only by grazing cows and horses.

If you look closely at the top of the photo, you can see one of the five bald eagles we spotted. We also saw osprey, cormorants, pellicans, great blue herons, ring-billed gulls, coots and mallards. The scenery went from rocky bluffs to low scrubland. This is a view of Ceremonial Rock and the falls at Fall Creek.

The next afternoon we got up close and personal with the falls with Buchanan Adventure Tours -- a great outfit that helps visitors do all sorts of fun things. It was windy on the lake and our time was an issue so instead of kayaking four miles up to the falls, Duane Te Grotenhuis ferried us up in a pontoon boat and we met his son Zac who had gone ahead with the kayaks.

My traveling teddy (http://www.teddietravel.blogspot.com/) and I shared a kayak with Valerie Redell. She's an experienced kayaker -- and I let her do most of the work while I took pictures. I've kayaked before and it's usually a two-man-and-a-crane operation to get me in and out of the kayak. Duane made this really easy -- I just scooted to the edge of the pontoon boat deck and just slid onto the kayak seat -- much more graceful than being lowered like a bag of bricks!

Kayak view of Ceremonial Rock.

The area has been experiencing less-than-normal rainfall for the past couple of years so the falls were not as full as in other times. They were still impressive.

Kenneth Grahame had it right when he wrote in Wind in the Willows, "There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."

Some of the hardier souls kayaked under the falls. We made Ben Ballanfant do it several times and still didn't get a really good photo of him!

Sarah VanHoose gives her opinion of the experience. Looks like she's adopted my technique and Ann Mazzanovich is doing the paddling.

To share a bit of the trip, check this clip. And give me credit -- it may not be thrilling but at least I've finally figured out that I must shoot horizontal!

Come to the Canyon

2010-11-19T19:29:00.000-08:00

Canyon of the Eagles northwest of Austin has been around for several years -- a great property with amazing potential. It always had "good bones" but now it has brains and heart. A new partner, Calibre, has joined with the Lower Colorado River Authority to make Canyon of the Eagles the asset it was intended to be -- a full-service nature park and resort. In this post, and the next couple to follow, take a peek at this super getaway. I loved it -- I'll bet you will, too.

My room was clean, comfortable and welcoming. (The cheese and fruit plate was a delightful surprise.) It was designed for retreat and enjoyment of the natural beauty all around. No TV to distract -- though if you just must catch up with your favorite show, there is a TV on property. I loved the down pillows and duvet -- and I didn't need the TV. I had KBAY -- "your hometown country" -- for the weather and a little Willie Nelson.

But who needs TV with a view like this? This was my porch -- the same view from my windows.

The buildings -- this is the restaurant -- blend in with the surroundings. The picture at the top of the blog shows the Canyon cottages -- taken from a boat, obviously. Canyon of the Eagles is on Lake Buchanan.

Huge window walls bring the outdoors in. I took this picture this morning before I had to leave for the airport. It was chilly last night and you can see the mist rising off the water.

My next posts will highlight activities in the park and attractions in the area. But you don't have to go anywhere or do anything to have a great time. My friend, Eileen Mattei, knows how to kick back.

One of the premier spots at the resort is Sunset Point -- the site of lots of weddings -- and the best place to watch the evening light show.

A Joyful Sound

2010-11-15T18:52:00.000-08:00

Zoe's friend Jon Pender sings in the Mousehole Male Voice Choir and he clued us in to this concert. What a treat! It was a joint concert with the Nankersey Male Choir. Both groups sang their own numbers but they joined together for two numbers including this one. The hymn is well-known as "Gwahoddiad" and is popularly thought to be a traditional Welsh hymn. It isn't. It was written in 1872 by an American Methodist minister. The choirs here sing the original English text, "I Hear Thy Welcome Voice."

The Mousehole Choir is over 100 years old -- quite a tradition. Their director is Stephen Lawry -- he's on the right end of the choir wearing a fancy vest. Here the group is directed by the Nankersey director, Elaine Tangye. The Nankersey Choir was founded in 1950 and two of the original twelve singers are still singing with the group.

My video doesn't begin to do justice to the quality of the sound -- it will just give you a little tease. The men were magnificent -- and raised many a goose-bump with their performance.

Afterwards, everyone headed to a local sports club for beer and munchies. And after a few pints, the men sang practically the entire concert all over again -- plus some other favorites. This evening was my idea of heaven!

Rub-a-dub-dub, How 'bout Some Pub Grub?

2010-11-09T09:56:00.000-08:00

Welcome to the Bath Inn in Penzance -- that's Pete Shapland, owner, bartender, Pete-of-all-trades. We first visited the Bath Inn a few years ago. Jack was going to a local Rotary meeting and I was on my own.

The Bath Inn was close to our bed and breakfast and looked inviting. The building dates back to the 1700s. I was lucky that visit -- they're not serving food in the off season now -- just from Easter to September. I was there in October and ordered the Ploughman's Lunch -- a specialty. It was properly traditional and oh-so-good. It consisted of a large slab of mature cheddar with lettuce, tomato, onion and cucumber, cole slaw, pickled onion and chutney, accompanied with warm crusty bread and butter.

And, like so many places in this civilized and dog-friendly country, well-mannered companions are always welcome.

Close to Zoe and Simon's apartment in nearby Newlyn is the Tolcarne Inn. It dates back to 1717.

We hit this spot more than once. It's hard to resist the wonderful fresh fish and chips -- even if they do have to put peas on the plate!

This is the First and Last, a pub in Penzance. First documented in the 1850s, when a visitor was ticketed for leaving an unattended cart and horse in front of the pub, it probably dates back to 1830. Apparently beer laws were changed then and a number of pubs were established around that time.

We ate here twice on this year's visit. It's a Tuesday regular spot for Zoe and some of her co-workers. Very friendly staff -- they always save a table. The food, while not gourmet fare, was ample and inexpensive -- two requirements for the hungry civil servants! This was chicken curry. I expected something with more heat, but it was tasty nonetheless.

My next visit I had cottage pie with chips and beans. Man, those English sure know how to do French fries!

The definite winner in the Pub Grub sweepstakes was the Sportsmans Arms in Heamoor, just northwest of Penzance. The building probably goes back to the 1800s and has served as several things besides a pub. New owners, Helen Cadman and Paul Odgers, bought the place a year and a half ago and completely re-did it. And they took a spot with a less than stellar reputation and are turning it into a foodie destination.

They make almost everything in house and concentrate on fresh and local! My scampi was excellent. They also offer a number of local artisan cheeses. Simon ordered the day's special which featured three different kinds of local fish, mussels and shrimp and potatoes. What you don't see is the side dish with a variety of veg. Simon filled up on the fish plate and left no room for the veggies. Zoe had a bowl of homemade mushroom soup that was out-of-this-world. I know, because I dipped my spoon in it. Jack opted for meaty ribs with homemade barbecue sauce. They might not win prizes in Memphis or Kansas City but he gave them a big thumbs-up.

We tend to do a lot of cooking in when Jack and I visit but we do make the occasional foray out. Pub grub is usually a good choice, price-wise. Thanks to the puny dollar, everything is pretty expensive there. When we splurge, it's usually at the Taj for Indian food and the Newlyn Meadery is a firm tradition. It's hard to have a bad meal when you're in such good company!

Going Coastal -- Part 2

2010-11-05T14:52:00.001-07:00

As you can see, this was an absolutely gorgeous day! We drove west from Penzance to Porthcurno, home of the Minack Theatre. The sun was bright, the sea was brilliant blue and there were swimmers and surfers on Porthcurno Beach.

The Minack Theatre was the vision and creation of one woman -- Rowena Cade. And what a vision it was! Entertainment in Cornwall in the '20s was pretty much do-it-yourself. Rowena organized a production of A Midsummer Night's Dream in an open field in 1929. This was followed with another production the next year. Looking for a more permanent solution, Rowena looked at the rocky cliff on her property.

Today's theatre is miles beyond the first rough stage which was lit by battery-powered lights and car headlights.

The theatre season runs from May through mid-September though visitors are welcome throughout the year.

The theatre features plays, musicals, concerts and ballet. Special morning shows for children are offered during August.

"Minack" refers to a rocky place in the old Cornish language.

Above the theatre seating area, the cliffs are planted with plants which can survive and thrive through stormy winters and hot, dry summers.

There may have been swimmers in the water -- but we thought they were crazy! Though the sun was bright, we dressed for cool weather -- and were happy we did.

Going Coastal -- Part 1

2010-10-30T00:25:00.000-07:00

Cornwall is famous for its dramatic and scenic coastline -- and for its mercurial weather. We certainly got a demonstration of both the day we visited The Lizard -- a peninsula which hangs off the southern coast making it the farthest south point in Britain. We can see The Lizard from Penzance -- snaking down the north side of Mounts Bay -- but the name doesn't come from its shape but as a combination of old Cornish words meaning "holy court or palace." The Lizard is fairly flat on top but drops away to the sea with steep cliffs.

The Lizard holds a special place in the history of communications. Gugliemo Marconi had a workshop here and it was from that site that the first wireless trans-Atlantic message was sent from Europe to North America on December 12, 1901.

Communication of another sort as been a long tradition -- the lighthouse on the point has warned ships away from the treacherous coast and into the English Channel since 1619. The present tower was constructed in 1732. It was electrified in 1924 and automated in 1998. Visitors can rent light-keepers cottages here.

It was sunny, but cool, on the drive from Penzance. We'd packed a picnic to eat on arrival at Lizard Point. Right on the ocean, it was quite windy and we decided to eat in the car. As we ate, we watched clouds sweep in so that by the time we finished, the blue sky was gone and the wind stronger than ever. We put on all the clothes we had with us -- Jack gave up his Legless but Smiling ball cap for a knit cap Zoe had in the boot of the car. I took the cap and tied it on my head with my knit headband. Zoe tied a shirt over her head --and tied her hood over that.

As you can see from the pictures, the clouds rolled in and out with the sun making a brief appearances. I've put these pictures in here in chronological order, so you can see the quick changes of conditions.

It was quite a walk back up from the water and as we reached the car park, the clouds had re-appeared and the rain came peppering down.

Driving out we encountered a situation common to English drivers -- two cars needing to be in the same space at the same time. Something has to give. Zoe was impatient with the car in front of us because he was just a few feet from a bit of added shoulder which would have given him more room. Instead, he tried backing up a Cornish hedge! According to Zoe, "We've all driven up the occasional hedge." As I've mentioned before, these leafy barriers have hearts of stone -- stacked granite that plants find ways to root on.

Driving from Lizard Point to Mullion Cove, we were treated to a lovely rainbow. We could see the entire bow and one end stopped right over a wind farm. Zoe wanted a picture of that -- seemed like an environmental blessing -- but between the narrow road, the Cornish hedges and the traffic -- we never got that particular shot. We did get this one where the combination of little traffic and low hedges cooperated.

By the time we got to Mullion Cove, it was cloudy again. Jack got bored with our photo taking and headed back to the car. Zoe and I lingered a bit too long and before we got back to our auto, we got soaked by another downpour!

A Sticky Situation

2010-10-28T01:41:00.000-07:00

I've been curious about acupuncture but the thought of someone sticking needles into me just sounded awful. However.... my daughter Zoe, who also is no seeker of pain, has been going to an acupuncturist in the U.K for her migraines and has had good results. So when we came for a visit -- and I've been having a problem with a "trigger finger" -- I decided that this would be a good time to try the therapy.

Dr. Tang is licensed and has many years of experience and Xiao Mei, the herbalist in the clinic, is also similarly qualified. I was apprehensive before my first visit but the discomfort with my hand overcame my reticence.

At each visit, Dr. Tang checks my pulse and looks at my tongue. Then we go upstairs where I lie on an examining table. Dr. Tang covers me with fluffy towels to keep me warm. After cleaning my hands and arms, she starts inserting the needles. I can't watch. Sometimes I don't feel anything; other times, a slight pressure; occasionally a brief twinge. Then Dr. Tang puts a heat lamp on me. Her English is limited and, when she turns it on, she says, "Barbecue!"

Then I settle in for a 30 minute nap. When Dr. Tang returns, she removes the needles and I get a brief massage. Her touch is light as a butterfly as she makes tiny circles with her fingers on my forehead, temples and behind my ears. Then she massages my ears and pops them. This is followed by a gentle massage on both arms and legs. And I'm done!

Dr. Tang suggested some pills for circulation, herbs for soaking my hand and some liniment. I have no idea what the herbs are -- they look like bits of sticks and evergreen plus bits and pieces of other stuff! These I soak, then boil, then cool enough to soak my hand in.

Are these remedies working? Well, my hand is definitely better. Whether this is the result of the acupuncture and medicines or just the healing touch of time, I don't know. I felt very confident with Dr. Tang -- her traditional training is a good assurance of safety of treatment. I'd do it again.

Colorful Cornwall

2010-10-26T03:19:00.001-07:00

It's actually not very colorful right this minute -- our first really rainy day, which out of 10 so far, is pretty darned good. So today's post is all about colorful sites around town. I love the movie with Alan Alda and Carol Burnett -- never can remember if its The Seasons or Four Seasons -- but in it, Sandy Dennis' character is a photographer going through a vegetable phase. I totally get it.

Who could resist these romanescu -- looks like the mutant child of a match between broccoli and cauliflower!

Huge leeks! Obviously a do-it-yourself joke opportunity!

Savoy cabbage -- great color, texture, vitamin packed -- ugh!

Purple cauliflower? Hmmm. A turnip in the woodpile perhaps?

A number of the stalls have fresh flowers.

And here the flower of British womanhood stands up for the fight against breast cancer. Love the trim on the umbrella!

Pied-a-terre in Paradise

2010-10-21T11:58:00.000-07:00

April Cottage, 1 Pleasant Place --doesn't that just sound so Mary Poppins? Zoe's friend loaned us her beautiful home in a little village outside of Penzance -- still walking distance to town -- and it's charming. It faces a tiny lane so I couldn't get back far enough to get a good shot of the front.

This is the backyard -- all sorts of beautiful plants -- roses, fuchsias, primulas and many more I can't name. There's a little water feature with a burbling fountain and water lilies. I don't know how old the house is but considering the low ceilings and bowed roof line, I'd say it has some age to it.

From the breakfast table we have a great view of the garden.

This picture is one of several streets in the main area of Penzance. We walk down there almost every day -- always some errand to run or something interesting to see. This particular shot is looking towards the bay.

The town's main street is called Market Jew -- the "jew" being the old Cornish word for "Thursday." The side of the street with the raised pavement (sidewalk) is called The Terrace.

The closest thing to a mall is the outdoor collection of shops known as Wharfside. You can see St. Michael's Mount through the arch.

Looking up Market Jew Street from the south you can't miss the domed Lloyd's Bank.

Another main shopping street -closed to most traffic - is Causeway Head.

And when we tire of strolling through town, we come back to the cottage and enjoy the view.

Big Cedar -- Roughing It Royally

2010-09-26T21:41:00.000-07:00

Oh, yes, I could definitely get used to this! There aren't enough superlatives to describe Big Cedar. Everything about this place is artful and outdoorsy from the cedar tree logo worked into the ironwork fences to the lines on the parking lot -- not just straight lines but painted stringers of fish. The stone and wood buildings blend into the towering trees and beautiful English cottage-style flower beds snuggle up to each building.

Our room (Jack was with me on this trip) was in the Springview Lodge (that's Falls Lodge at the top of the blog). It overlooked the swimming pool, which, with the beautiful, warm weather, was a welcoming spot.

Our room had a fireplace -- no, we didn't need it -- and a balcony where we enjoyed breakfast. The bed was perfect and I slept like a baby each night.

Big Cedar Lodge is south of Branson, Missouri -- close enough to enjoy the shows but a world away from the traffic and crowds. There are plenty of activities -- fishing, boating, jet skis, horseback riding, tennis, miniature golf, and a lovely spa -- but I could have been happy just sitting on my balcony or by the pool enjoying the fresh Ozark air.

The Lumber Baron's Daughter

2010-09-19T18:40:00.000-07:00

Stillwater, Minnesota is a charming little town that's experiencing a resurrection as a tourist destination. It was a lumber boomtown in the late 1800s and early 1900s -- until all the trees were cut down. The town slipped into an economic slumber leaving charming buildings which, now house bed and breakfasts and boutiques, and, along with a beautiful riverfront and historic downtown, are attracting visitors to the area.

I wasn't in town long before becoming aware of the name "Staples." Not the office supply store, but one of the city's first movers and shakers -- and Minnesota's first millionaire. Isaac Staples, first and foremost a lumberman, had his fingers in many pies -- farms, a saw mill, timberland, a bank and other businesses. His name was so prominent that the house where his daughter Aurora and her husband Adolphus Hospes lived is still known as the Aurora Staples house -- now a bed and breakfast inn.

The gingerbread trim is elaborate; the woodwork in the home befitting a lumberman's daughter. The house is furnished in the style of the period (late 1800s). One of the few original items in the house is the beautiful bedroom set in the St. Croix Suite -- my home away from home. All the rooms have double whirlpool tubs, fireplaces and private baths. And oh-so-comfy beds!

The present owners are Cathy and Jerry Helmberger. They're live-in owners and always available to meet any need -- but they think most of their guests want privacy. I think I was a new experience for them -- chasing them around with my notebook in hand and photographing my food!

Every breakfast was a three-course delight. This one started with a warm apple/cranberry medley topped with a dollop of sour cream sprinkled with nutmeg. Next course was peach French toast with a brown sugar/maple glaze and sausage. It smelled so good I got excited and bit into it before I remembered to photograph it!

What's a meal without dessert? We finished with a peach and raspberry cobbler and vanilla ice cream sprinkled with cinnamon.

Aurora may have lived in the lap of luxury but I'm sure she couldn't have been more pampered than I was.

Princess of the Plantation

2010-08-19T19:58:00.000-07:00

Oh, yeah, I could live at Amelia Island Plantation. I had a beautiful room at the Amelia Inn -- and a balcony overlooking the ocean. I also had a great view of one of the golf courses -- there are three on the property.

Amelia Island Plantation occupies a good chunk of the south end of Amelia Island, Florida. The island, just off the east coast, is about as far north as you can get and still be in Florida. With a good stiff wind, you could spit on Georgia!

It was hot -- though it was hotter by five to ten degrees in Oklahoma -- but what it lacked in Fahrenheit, it made up in humidity! This misty, romantic shot isn't fog -- it's just a steamed up camera lens. Every time I walked outside, I became temporarily blind until I could wipe off my glasses!

One of the highlights of my trip was a Segway tour. Five of us -- and our guide and Segway-sitter Gary -- wound our way along some of the many paths and roads that ribbon through the Plantation.

When we'd gotten about as far as we could from our starting point, the clouds opened and dumped on us. I didn't plan on wearing see-through pants but that's what they were by the time we got back! Wet as I was, I'd do it again in a minute.

There are almost 2000 residences on the Plantation -- a number in several high-rise buildings but many free-standing houses tucked in the trees. Planners were way ahead of their time in considering the environment -- they preserved between 70 and 80 per cent of the tree canopy. I loved riding down this alley of live oaks dripping with Spanish moss.

I went to sleep at night with the sound of the ocean in my ears. What luxury. I felt like Cinderella at the ball. But now it's back to reality. Just pass me my pumpkin.

Who Is My Neighbor?

2010-08-07T14:33:00.000-07:00

Excuse the detour from my usual travel adventures. First I have to beg forgiveness for 1. being judgmental (I KNOW I have logs in my eye!) and 2. for eavesdropping (which I do with great regularity.) Here's what I heard this morning at my favorite McDonald's.

On one side of the restaurant is a long bench serving three tables. I was sitting at the middle one, reading my library book and savoring my 7 point (Weight Watchers!) breakfast burrito. An older man and woman and their adult daughter sat down at the table to my left. When the father lifted the lid of his coffee, he discovered it was just hot water. He had asked the server to put hot water in his coffee. The employee had minimal English skills and obviously misunderstood. They checked the bill and discovered they had paid 53 cents for the hot water (the same price as a senior coffee). The father was incensed. The daughter went back to the counter and exchanged the water for the requested watered coffee.

Their conversation became more heated as they castigated "these people" who come here but don't speak the language and how they should be required to study English for a year. (For a digression -- yes, classes are available but they are frequently at inconvenient hours or locations for workers who take these kinds of jobs.)

The more they talked, the madder the father became. He announced his intention of going to the counter to complain again. After he left, the mother and daughter both talked about how they didn't want to be there to see it.

When he came back, the subject turned to their Bible study class. They were quite concerned about the proper sequence of creation -- Did God create Adam first, then Eve? Did God create Adam and Eve simultaneously? Did God create other people first but Adam was the first "special" one?

While they were talking, a Latino couple with a beautiful little girl sat down at the table on my right. They were speaking Spanish. The mother said something to the little girl and all three of them folded their hands as the mother said a prayer over their breakfast. Of course, I couldn't understand the words but it obviously was longer than the quickie God is great, God is good.

I know I am called on to love both the family on the left and the family on the right. But if I had to choose a neighbor to live next door -- well, buenos dias, neighbor.

Makin' a Food Baby

2010-07-29T20:18:00.000-07:00

Warning: Do not read this if you are hungry! You've heard me gripe about the difficulty of sticking to my Weight Watchers points on trips. Here's why. In addition to great meals, we often have extra treats like the lovely noms prepared for us at the Nagle Warren Mansion. Above, relishes and barbecued bits of chicken. There was also a deadly good dip with tostadas and, below, cheeses and fruit!

Then dinner in the Capitol Grille in the historic Plains Hotel, built in 1911. I photographed this plate of London Broil (flank steak marinated for 3 days, grilled over an open flame and finished with a mushroom bordelaise sauce), garlic whipped potatoes and mixed veg before I split it with an obliging friend.

The next morning I had the first of several excellent breakfasts at the Nagle Warren Mansion. There was always juice, followed by a fresh fruit cup -- it varied from day to day but included fresh strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries and watermelon in some combination. One morning it was topped with whipped cream; always garnished with fresh mint from owner Jim Osterfoss's herb garden. The first morning I had a frittata with tomato, mozzarella, basil and bacon, Yukon Gold diced potatoes with saffron, bacon and fresh tomato wedges.

We toured the Terry Bison Ranch, which sits on the border of Wyoming and Colorado, before having a great bison burger for lunch.

Funny, I wasn't hungry at dinnertime, so even though we ate at the Little Bear Inn, noted for steaks, I had a cup of soup and a small salad. Good for me, right? But who could pass up Bear Balls for dessert -- vanilla ice cream rolled in crushed oreo cookies! Usually on press trips we get several different desserts and pass them around the table -- so I just had a few bites. Well, okay, I had half a ball -- but how much will power can any one foodie conjour up?

Breakfast on Friday was at the funky Luxury Diner. This part of the diner was an once an operating trolley car -- from 1896 to 1912. The diner has been in this spot since 1926. This was definitely a get-your-day-started-with-a-kick breakfast -- huevos rancheros topped with refried beans and chile verde, great salsa, and luxury potatoes (diced and pan-fried with onions and peppers).

Saturday's breakfast at the Mansion included orange French toast topped with orange sauce and dried cranberries.

That night was our last dinner together. We ate at Little America on the patio. It was crowded when we arrived but quickly thinned out as everyone else was going to the Brooks and Dunn concert at the rodeo grounds. We enjoyed dinner and the music of a guitar player. After dinner he announced, "We have someone here who is having a birthday." Ours was the only table occupied and I was the only one having a birthday (on Sunday). I had obviously not been shy about sharing the fact. Bless Darren Rudloff's heart (he's the CEO of the CVB), he had arranged for a beautiful cheesecake. I blew out the candles and then we all did as much damage as we could before sharing it with our servers! Happy Birthday to me!

Sunday morning I was up before everyone else -- I spent the week in Wyoming on CDT. It wasn't quite time for breakfast but Sandra McClelland, who fixes all those wonderful treats, offered to serve me early. She was making ham and smoked gouda cheese omelets and nicely made mine with just one egg -- my idea of trying to redeem myself. I loved the fresh chive garnish!

And Monday morning, it was back to Weight Watchers yogurt, 1/3 cup of granola and a topping of blueberries. It will take me 3 weeks to get back to what I weighed before I left home -- and then I leave for Florida! What a life!

Rodeo Queen

2010-07-25T20:15:00.000-07:00

Cheyenne, Wyoming, was absolutely packed with queens this week -- before Frontier Days is over, they'll have rodeo queens from 30 or 40 states there. So, as the boss queen of the Edmond Redbud Queens Chapter of the Sweet Potato Queens of America, I was in the midst of a lot of royalty -- and they all had bigger tiaras! But I'll bet none of them had a more palatial place to stay than I did!

The Nagle Warren Mansion Bed and Breakfast is an 1888 beauty that once belonged to Wyoming Governor, then U.S. Senator, F.E. Warren -- who played host to his buddy Teddy Roosevelt in the home. You can see from the picture of the living room that it's as impressive inside as out. That fireplace, by the way, is cast brass -- very rare!

My bedroom was in the carriage house and I couldn't have asked for a more comfortable place to stay. This picture is of my favorite corner of the room. That window overlooks the garden -- and the window opens for that wonderful, fresh, Wyoming air.

All of the fireplaces in the mansion are antique. This is the one in my room.

I loved the old-fashioned tub -- with a great, modern showerhead. I'm not a bath person -- love showers -- but the little western duck almost tempted me.

I just got home this evening so I haven't uploaded all my photos yet. Just wait until you see the breakfasts here!

We Clicked!

2010-06-17T19:47:00.000-07:00

I snapped this photo of Heather Smith and her daughter at the Discovery Museum in Chattanooga. When I got home, I sent her a copy. I just received a thank-you note and, guess what? Heather and her husband have a photography business in Chattanooga. She sent me their website -- http://www.richsmithphotography.com/ -- what beautiful photos! Having a wedding in Tennessee? Check this out!

Falls to Fall for

2010-06-14T20:50:00.000-07:00

I've fallen in love with Ruby Falls. This super cave opened 80 years ago and doesn't look a day over 30 million years old. There are certainly older caves -- I've seen a number with huge stalactites, stalagmites and columns. These formations are not particularly impressive in Ruby Falls.

There are lots of soda straws and some nice drapery. Flowstone is common in the cave.

On a recent press trip to Chattanooga, we had the opportunity to see two different faces of the cave. One evening we took a lantern tour of the caverns -- seeing them more like discoverer Leo Lambert might have seen them. Our guide, Bill Weichert, loves geology and he told us several times that he prefers the lantern tours to the more conventional lighted tour we took the next day. But he knows the cave like the back of his hand. For me, not so much. I was too concerned about keeping the light on the path so I wouldn't slip or trip and I found later that I'd missed many features of the cave.

The next morning we took the traditional tour. Purists may disdain the colored lights but, frankly, I loved them. Especially when we arrived at the highlight of the tour -- Ruby Falls itself. We could hear the water before we could see it. Then, around a corner, there it was -- 145 feet from top to bottom. Dramatic lighting and majestic music blended, making it an absolutely magnificent experience. We only had seven minutes to admire it -- and I spent my time snapping as many photos as I could -- hoping one would come out. Next time I go, I want to just stand and soak it in.

This is one of the easiest caves to visit. Visitors take an elevator 260 feet down to the beginning of the cave trail. The path is practically level -- less than two dozen steps in the 4/5 mile route -- it's the mountain that gets higher. By the time you reach the falls, you're over 1000 feet below the surface. Ruby Falls is one of Chattanooga's oldest attractions and still one of the best.

Reuben, Reuben, I've Been Thinking.....

2010-06-04T18:53:00.000-07:00

I'm an absolute sucker for a good Reuben sandwich and, as much as I wanted to try some of the innovative items on the Sproutz menu, I had to succumb to the call of corned beef. Sproutz makes their own corned beef and it was truly authentic.

I was really tempted by the Hyman Roth sandwich -- described on the menu as "a hefty schmear of chopped kosher chicken liver with red onion and chopped gherkins on rye toast." Looking at the menu, I thought I'd been transported to the East Coast or maybe Nate 'n Al's in Beverly Hills.

"Are you Jewish?" I asked owner Don Eller. "No," he answered, "but I've traveled around a lot."

He said he'd run the menu by a Jewish friend who told him he should take about 40 per cent of the items off. "My generation doesn't eat that way," he told Don, "and the older generation will just tell you you didn't make it right."

I'm not Jewish either, so what do I know? I know I enjoyed that Reuben.

There are lots of other great sounding items on the menu -- salads, sandwiches and wraps -- like the Neiman Marcus Chicken Salad sandwich, Lobster Roll and The Gunni wrap with hickory smoked turkey, jalapeno ranch spread, tomato, sprouts, avocado and cheddar cheese.

Check their website at http://www.sproutztulsa.com/ for info.

Calvin's Graduation

2010-05-25T07:55:00.000-07:00

This whole last week has been all about Calvin. It started a week ago yesterday with the Baccalaureate service. Part of the service included each graduate's parents being asked to stand. The graduate's name was then read with its meaning and a special Bible verse. Then each student took a rose to his or her parents.

Afterwards there was a reception and lots of photos. Obviously this is Calvin with Jay and Carolyn and Cal with Jack and me.

On Monday Calvin left for the week on his senior trip to Florida. The kids went to DisneyWorld, Universal Studios and Daytona Beach. They got back on Sunday night -- in time for Monday night's graduation.

Before the graduation, there was a slide show of each student with three pictures. Here's Cal's baby photo and his current photo.

Then the students marched in and took their places in the front of the auditorium. Cal, being a W, was in the last row -- which was fortunate for photos.

Having been at OCS for 12 years, Calvin made many good friends. After receiving his diploma, he got a big hug from Headmaster Dallas Caldwell. Mr. Caldwell was a great mentor, taking personal interest in the students, and Cal admires him very much.

The tassel is moved!

'Shine On

2010-05-22T14:18:00.000-07:00

Being one of those people who doesn't understand the attraction of NASCAR, I can't say I was thrilled to be going to the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame. It's in tiny Dawsonville, Georgia, about 45 minutes north of Atlanta. I love it that the building says "Georgia Racing Hall of Fame" and "Dawsonville City Hall."

I must admit I got a kick out of learning some of the history there. Seems this area was noted for moonshine -- both during prohibition, into the 1950s and, truth to tell, now. Back in the old days, moonshiners would make the run down curvy Highway 19 to Atlanta, sometimes several times down and back in one evening.

One of those entrepreneurs who was in business in a big way was Raymond Parks. Not only did he run shine, he hired other drivers to help. Parks would laugh about the "young uns" running 'shine on Saturday night. Parks would just get a couple of nicely dressed ladies to sit on the 'shine and he'd make his run on Sunday morning -- at a leisurely, Sunday-goin'-to-meetin' pace.

The drivers were pretty proud of their cars and would meet in a local field on Sunday afternoons and challenge one another. Believe it or not, these races were the roots of NASCAR. This shiny '39 Ford belonged to Raymond Parks' cousin, Lloyd Seay.

I still think watching cars go round and round is the noisy equivalent of watching paint dry -- but I appreciate the history. And for those who are fans -- you'll find lots of autos and racing memorabilia here. Do check it out.

Kansas City in the A.M.

2010-05-13T20:40:00.000-07:00

For me, one of the highlights of the SATW meeting in Kansas City was participating in the Photo Shootout. We left the hotel before sunrise -- and I couldn't have found a greater group of people to get up early with. Bruce Meyer did a great job of picking photo spots. It was such fun to just shoot -- no hassling with notebooks or tape recorders -- forget the facts, just get the image. The shot at the top was one of my first -- definitely before the sun came up. The Power and Light District is Kansas City's newest arts and entertainment district but for me it was a trip down memory lane. The tall building is the Power and Light Building where my dad had an office for a number of years -- about half a century ago!

As the sun came up, we went to the Liberty Memorial -- now the site of the World War I Museum. When I was a kid we didn't have air conditioning and some summer evenings we'd drive up here. With the tall column and eternal flame and the veiled sphinxes, it was one of the most exotic places I could imagine. I still love it.

We stopped for breakfast at Succotash. It used to be in the City Market -- Jack and I ate there once several years ago. Now it's on Holmes near Hospital Hill. Funky is the only word for the decor while delicious is the only word for the food.

We ordered several different items and shared with one another. I think my choice was the absolute best -- Eggs and Crab Benedict with hash browns -- yum!

Beth Barden is the brilliant owner. The Rainbow Cake in the photo is a house specialty. Each layer is a different fruit flavor.

Our next stop was the City Market. I took the obligatory fruit and veg pics but I love this gnome who will never find a home in any article. He and a number of gnomey friends were hanging out in a seed and garden store in the market area. Here it comes; here it comes; wait for it -- THERE'S NO PLACE LIKE GNOME!

Barbecue 101

2010-05-04T09:42:00.000-07:00

This was the title of the afternoon adventure Jack and I took during the Central States SATW conference in Kansas City. We hit four of the top-rated spots in less than five hours. Here are the results of my research. Keep in mind that barbecue is subjective -- my faves are my faves; you may or may not agree.

For me, it's all about the flavor and the sauce. For this reason, many folks' favorite, Arthur Bryant's, wasn't so high on my list. The place has the requisite ambiance -- none -- it couldn't be plainer. Visitors here aren't looking for frills.

We sampled brisket, turkey and ribs and the meats were all good. The brisket was wonderfully lean. It was the sauce that left me cold. It contains vinegar, paprika and other spices and has a bit of a grainy consistency. Other sauces are offered. White bread and pickles are on the table. Sides include potato salad, baked beans and French fries are about as fancy as it gets.

Calvin Trillin proclaimed Bryant's as "the single best restaurant in the world." Bryant's has a long history and is certainly is iconic in Kansas City barbecue history. I could happily eat there again -- it just wasn't my top pick.

Some of the writers in our group rated Oklahoma Joe's best. We were there about 4:00 on Saturday afternoon and there was a line out the door. So a lot of people must agree. Ambiance gets a bit of a kick -- this busy eatery shares space with a gas station! There's an obvious joke there, but I'll let you do it yourself.

With its roots in Stillwater, Oklahoma, I felt a pull of loyalty. And their pulled pork was wonderful -- they take credit for putting pulled pork on the K.C. barbecue map. Not that it was unknown before, but they set the bar. They serve it plain or Carolina style, topped with coleslaw. Servings are whopping.

We had a sampler plate. The fact that this was our last stop may have blunted our enthusiasm. I'm a ribs and brisket fan -- not so much burnt ends. I thought these ends were a bit rubbery. This eatery ranks #3 on my list.

There was a tie for first place and I could go either way on these. Gates Barbecue started over 60 years ago on Kansas City's east side. The third generation of the family is now involved and the business has grown to half-a-dozen locations across the metro area and their barbecue sauce is becoming widely available nationally.

Meat choices are extensive, including mutton ribs. Their barbecue beans are cooked in the pit, catching the drippings and flavor of the cooking meats. If you have any room, don't miss the yammer pie (sweet potato).

George Gates could sell snow to Eskimos. We asked what made barbecue different from place to place. His answer, "Personality." This 'cue had personality and then some. And we loved dining outside. Their sauces were great -- sweet/mild, extra hot, mild and original classic. And they're organized from bottom to top -- running their own College of Barbecue Knowledge which all their employees attend. This spot is a winner.

Jack Stack is what you get when barbecue goes uptown. This is another family business with a solid history in the food industry. Company presiden Case Dorman gave us a quick course in burnt ends and a tour of the kitchen.

Their menu is huge and offers some options -- salads, steaks, fish -- that the more traditional spots don't have. But their barbecue can hold its own with any of their competition. In addition to ribs, brisket and burnt ends, and other expected items, they also have crown roast of pork and rack of lamb.

The sides push Jack Stack into a spot of its own -- the beans are the best I ever ate. Like Gates, they're cooked in the pit and are well-laced with bits of burnt ends -- a ratio of 20 % meat to 80% beans and sauce. Don't pass on the cheesy corn bake -- totally nummy in the tummy! And the onions are all hand-cut and battered and breaded with secret ingredients. The barbecue sauce comes in original and spicy. I like a sauce with a touch of sweet and Jack Stack's sauce really hit the spot. There are four Jack Stack locations -- we ate at the Freight Yard, near the Union Station.

It's really a toss-up for me between Jack Stack and Gates -- but Bryant's and Oklahoma Joe are certainly good choices, too. My best recommendation -- try them all.

Texas Tenderfoot

2010-04-25T20:44:00.000-07:00

It wasn't my foot that was tender! But I have to say that my ride at Wildcatter Ranch near Graham, Texas, was the best. First of all, I'm a big wuss and horses know it. So I asked Jay, the director of all the equine activities at the ranch, for a horse that was "sure-footed, half-dead and not hungry."

He chose Precious for me -- a chestnut gelding -- definitely sure-footed, not half-dead but very calm and exceedingly nice about not trying to snack on the trail. We rode for almost an hour and a half through meadows with lush grass, up rocky trails, through thick brush and shady junipers and on a bluff overlooking the meandering Brazos River.

The scenery was stunning with lots of wildflowers: bluebonnets, Indian paintbrush, prickly poppies, poppy mallow, prairie verbena and a variety of little yellow blossoms. Jay led the group and Bryan baby-sat me at the back of the bunch. They were both great -- wonderfully patient and soooo cowboy polite with their drawled "yes ma'ams."

I must admit I wasn't looking forward to the ride -- just doing it in the line of duty. I'm so glad I went. It was lots of fun; I didn't fall off and it only took a few minutes to make my legs work right again.

I'm having an awful time trying to get my videos to go anywhere. I did manage to get a short one up on YouTube. To see a view of the trail from between Precious's ears, go to www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrgRUOtr0dE .

Architectural Independence

2010-04-21T15:43:00.001-07:00

Visitors to the Kansas City area do themselves a disservice if they don't make a trip a few miles east of town to Independence. This little town has a lot of historical importance -- home of Harry Truman and site of his Presidential Museum, beginning of the Santa Fe -- and subsequently the Oregon and California -- Trail, and important to Latter Day Saints and their religious off-shoots.

And it presents an interesting variety of architectural styles from its traditional square with its Liberty Hall-influenced Court House to the space-age spiral of the Temple of the Community of Christ (formerly Reorganized Latter Day Saints). We could see the spire in the distance as we approached the town.

Jack and I had toured the Truman Presidential Museum on a previous visit. Of all the presidential museums I've visited (Ford, Reagan, Clinton, Eisenhower, Johnson, Bush, Carter and Clinton) this is my favorite. This time we took a walking tour past the home where Harry and Bess lived from the time of their marriage in 1919. It was the official Summer White House from 1945 to 1953.

The Waggoner-Bingham House was built in 1852 with later expansions. The artist George Caleb Bingham and his wife lived here from 1864 to 1870. This is the "Pink Parlor" -- the furnishings, many original, are turn-of-the-last-century.

We slipped into a prayer service in the Community of Christ Temple and got to hear a hymn played on that impressive organ, a 102-rank Casavante Freres pipe organ. Notice the nautilus-like swirl of the ceiling.

The Second Empire Victorian Vaile Mansion is a real jewel. The painting on the ceiling of this bedroom caused a local scandal.

Weight Watcher Woes

2010-03-25T10:24:00.000-07:00

Just when I thought I had it all figured out.... Before I left for the Dallas press trip I went online and checked the menus for each restaurant listed on the itinerary. I carefully chose the items I would order so that I could enjoy myself without a big set-back on my weight watching. What I didn't figure into the equation was the generosity of our host, Ray Hammer, the general manager of the downtown Sheraton Dallas Hotel, and his amazing staff. Instead of us ordering off the menus, each meal was a lavish banquet of multiple delicacies. Executive Chef Michael Braun, Executive Sous Chef David Smith and others spared no time and effort to create food so beautiful and flavorful that I was powerless to resist!

The top picture shows the array of breads, rolls and mini-smoothies on each breakfast table and the second picture shows two of the entrees -- a hand pie filled with chorizo and eggs and topped with ancho gravy and a bagel crisp with Texas goat chees, asparagus, peppered bacon and truffle oil. I passed on the Red Mill steel-cut oatmeal baked in an organic apple with honey drizzle, the other bagel crisps topped with Dallas mozzarella with grape tomato relish and pickled red onion or house smoked salmon with micro greens and chili cream and the frittata!

Dinner that night started with major appetizers. You can see from this picture how artfully everything was presented. And, believe me, I'm only showing you a fraction of the feast! On the left is beet gazpacho, in the center crudites with cocktail sauce, and on the right, traditional gazpacho.

I can't remember how many entrees were prepared. This is the lobster mac and cheese like momma never made.

Executive Sous Chef David Smith (from Dublin with an accent to die for) is preparing mini-tenderloins with mushrooms and blue cheese.

This picture of me below is from the first night in Dallas -- when I still had a modicum of dietary decorum. I lost it shortly thereafter. My last morning at the hotel, I had breakfast on my own and ordered an egg-white omelet full of good veggies. The omelet was great. It was too late

Restaurant sans Rival

2010-02-28T18:12:00.000-08:00

One of the pleasures of my job is eating in some of the country's finest restaurants. What a treat to find one in my own backyard! Oh, there are many fine restaurants in the Oklahoma City area but Friday night I dined (not ate -- dined) at a spot that exceeded all my expectations.

I was scheduled to speak on Saturday morning at the Norman Public Library. Having to make the trek, I decided to do some research in the process. Jennifer Tregarthen at the Norman CVB made arrangements for me to stay at Whispering Pines Inn. The owners, the Kchao family, also extended an invitation to dinner -- including a companion -- in their restaurant. I'll be writing about my stay in the Edmond Sun's next weekend edition but for this post, I want to concentrate on dining.

The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 6 to 8:30 p.m. Reservations are required -- they time the baking of their home-made yeast rolls based on the number and time of reservations. Everything is from scratch and the presentation is sheer artistry. Let me describe the meal.

The Whispering Pines main house is a large, Victorian-style structure. There are three dining areas. Two of the three rooms have fireplaces. The lighting is subtle; the linens crisp and white. The seating is limited but, unlike many restaurants, they've provided ample space so you won't feel crowded. And it's quiet. Everything is planned to enhance the dining experience -- to provide an atmosphere of serenity and elegance.

My friend, Billie Lee, and I each started with a glass of wine. We were brought a basket with rolls and dishes with honey/dill butter. I could have made a meal on the rolls alone! But we were in for more pleasures. The soup du jour was lobster bisque -- rich and rosy and garnished with a scribble of cream.

We cleansed our palates with a tiny scoop of citrus sorbet in an icy dish.

Billie ordered salmon and I chose filet mignon. I'm a when-Harry-met-Sally kind of a steak orderer -- "I'd like it medium -- on the rare side -- but not medium-rare" -- and it was absolutely perfect. Billie let me taste her salmon and it, too, was just right -- flaky, moist and flavorful.

Our entrees were served with fresh vegetables -- carrots, yellow squash, zucchini and asparagus spears. Rather than being cut into the usual bits, the vegetables (except the asparagus) were cut into little spheres -- a colorful confetti-look on the plate. Twice-baked potato was piped into a swirly design and browned. And there was a rosebud garnishing the plate -- not just any rosebud. This one was carved out of potato. I've seen tomato roses and radish roses but the potato rose takes the prize! The food was so good that no embellishment was necessary but the hallmark of the Kchao's is the attention they pay to the tiniest details.

In a fit of self-control, belated though it was, we decided to split a dessert. Our choices included a creme brulee, something chocolate and -- cinnamon raisin bread pudding with a scoop of homemade vanilla bean ice cream and fresh raspberry puree. Oh, died and gone to heaven!

The service was impeccable -- attentive without being obtrusive. The price? My steak, at $33, was one of the most expensive items on the menu. Our entire meal, with wine, was about $100. Given the ambience and the experience, it was a bargain.

Whispering Pines is located at 7820 East Highway 9, southeast of Norman. Call 405-447-0202 or 888-876-0202 for reservations.

This Is the Coolest!!!!

2010-02-20T15:44:00.000-08:00

The Hotel de Glace, near Quebec, has got to be the coolest hotel I've ever visited. Made of 15,000 tons of snow and 500 tons of ice, it takes a month to build and is open from January until April (weather willing). Then it's taken down and dumped in a nearby lake -- the ultimate in recycling.

This year's hotel features 36 rooms -- a number of them suites -- and some amazing public areas. The suites feature beautiful snow carved walls. Check out the roses in the honeymoon suite and the polar bear in the suite of that name.

The temperature is kept between 26 and 28 degrees Fahrenheit. The furniture -- including this fabulous chandelier -- is made of ice. Wooden boards and mattresses top the ice beds and visitors bundle up in mummy-like sleeping bags.

The chapel is a popular spot. There were five weddings over Valentine's Day weekend.

Did I spend the night. Nope. But I did enjoy the bar! The hard cider in ice glasses was super!

A votre sante!

La Belle Ville

2010-02-16T20:37:00.000-08:00

From my window on the 9th floor of the Quebec Hilton, I had a perfect view of Vieux Quebec, Old Quebec, a walled city so historic and beautiful that it has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Across the street from the hotel stands the Parliament Building built in the late 1800s in Second Empire style. Though outside the old city, the architecture blends perfectly with the gray city walls and the distinctive French flair of the city.

One of the reasons I love Quebec is that it is so French but it's chic without the cheek. Quebecois are proud of their heritage and language -- by law they must speak French to their work colleagues. One man told me that Canadian French may be more authentically French than the French they speak in France. Some old French words which are no longer used in France are still used here -- kind of the equivalent of remnants of Shakespearean English which can be found in some Appalachian expressions.

French Canadians, however, are unfailingly gracious to those of us who attempt the language. In every store I was greated with "Bon jour" and I politely responded "Bon jour." The next words out of the clerk's mouths were inevitably "May I help you with something?" Finally, I couldn't stand it any longer and had to ask "Is it my French or do I just look American?"

Gently, the clerk replied, "You have an accent. But don't feel badly, I have an accent when I speak English." And I thought I was doing so well! How badly can you mangle "Bon jour?"

Don't answer!

The first evening we had cocktails and dinner at the Chateau Frontenac, the iconic castle-like hotel that rises above the Old Town. This was the first of many amazing meals we enjoyed in Quebec -- innovative sushi at Yuzu; dishes featuring local products prepared with such style that Le Patriarche has earned a Four Diamond rating from AAA; great Italian food at Restaurant au Parmesan and our last dinner at the charming Franco-Italian Graffiti.

Below is the dessert we were served at Graffiti. I don't know if you can see the spun sugar garnish but the presentation was beautiful -- and I loved the hearts for Valentine's Day. On the plate is a piece of apple tart, ice cream in a crispy cup and a heart-shaped meringue cookie filled with jam. I loved the food and I HEART Quebec!

Snow Day

2010-01-31T17:15:00.000-08:00

Help, I'm being dragged kicking and screaming into the 21st century. I'm going to have to learn to use video. One of my first lessons -- I can only post videos smaller than 100 MB! I was fairly pleased with my long video -- a tour of the front yard with Roxie, complete with snow crunching sound effects. The little one posted here is Roxie eating snow on her morning walk. Obviously, I've got a ways to go. I much prefer my comfort zone with still photos.

If you're looking out your window at snow, you're probably sick of looking at it. This post is mainly for my daughter Zoe who lives in Penzance, England. They don't get this much snow there.

The storm started out with freezing rain and sleet followed by snow -- about 6 inches worth. The next three pictures were taken at the beginning of the snow -- it had been snowing about 2 hours when I took them. The views from the windows were taken the next day.

Close-up

Old Farm Lane -- looking south from just north of Echo Trail

View from the front window. Notice the Christmas lights which may be up until Easter.

View from the kitchen window.

Roxie takes a rest after her outing.

Magic Places

2010-01-19T20:31:00.000-08:00

When I was a kid I collected trading cards -- not baseball cards but regular playing cards with pretty pictures. Of course you could swipe a card from a full deck but we usually bought packs of cards at the dime store. We'd get a pack of ten or twenty cards with pictures of specific subjects like horses or flowers or an assortment, which meant potluck. We kept them in albums and traded with friends.

One of my favorite cards was a picture of Bok Tower in Lake Wales, Florida. It stood tall, reflected in a still pond framed with palm trees. I thought it must be one of the most beautiful places in the world. I didn't see it in person until my senior year in high school. The card didn't lie. It is one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen. I've been back twice since then and it's still just as lovely.

It stands atop a 300 foot rise -- the Florida equivalent of a mountain -- and stretches 205 feet into the sky. It is made of Georgia pink marble and Florida coquina stone and decorated with colorful faience. Inside is a carillon of 66 bells. The music rolls regularly over the hilltop either in recorded or live concerts. The only entrance is through a magnificent brass repousee door.

I was there again last week. The weather had been useasonably cold -- the day we visited was the first day I'd ventured out without my longhandles! The air was fresh but the sun was warm. The landscape was lush with ferns, palms and bromeliads and brilliant camellias dotted the bushes.

I left the group to stroll alone through the gardens, my destination the bird blind called "Window on the Pond." It was noon and there wasn't a lot of avian action -- just a juvenile red-winged blackbird and a towhee -- but it was peaceful and quiet and a pleasant place to stop.

As always, my visit was too brief. Leaving the gardens, I looked up at the entrance and the motto emblazoned there. It was advice to Edward Bok from his grandmother. "Make you the world a bit better or more beautiful because you have lived in it." She would be very proud.

Tacky Joke

2010-01-04T21:04:00.000-08:00

Okay, here's one of my favorite jokes and it really describes my feeling about my day --
This guy dies and goes to hell and the devil is showing him around. "You have a choice as to where you want to spend eternity, so consider the options carefully," he counsels the new arrival. The devil opens a door and the newcomer looks in. Inside are hundreds of tormented souls being prodded by little devils with pointed pitchforks. Moving on to the next room, he sees a large group of people hopping up and down on glowing coals. Looking in a third door, he sees a room with, to be delicate, poo up to his knees. Small groups of people are sitting around picnic tables chatting, smoking and drinking coffee. It's not pleasant but, considering the alternatives, he says to the devil, "I think I'll stay here." "Are you sure?" the devil asks him. "Yes, " he answers, "this is my choice." "Okay," says the devil as he turns to leave. Just before shutting the door, the devil sticks his head back in and shouts, "Okay, everybody, coffee break's over. Back on your heads!"
I've spent the last week and a half frittering my time away. Did I work ahead so that I was not up against deadlines? Nope. So today, my coffee break was over.

White Christmas -- Bah Humbug!

2009-12-25T14:51:00.000-08:00

For me Christmas traditions have always been important -- late Christmas eve church service with the bells at midnight, family all together. This has been one of my strangest Christmases. No church last night thanks to the blizzard. No brunch with the kids. Instead, Jack and I spent a good part of the afternoon trying to dig our way out of the house. We managed to get one of the cars out. A neighbor made a pass at the top of our driveway with his snowplow and Jack decided to back my car out of the street into the driveway. It's now sitting in the yard -- stuck until the spring thaw. Hope we can get the other car out in the morning and get to the kids for a belated brunch. It's not quite 5 p.m. and I'm already in my pajamas. After the shoveling, I came in for a shower and decided to get snuggy.

I think this year tops my previous weird Christmas -- the year we spent Christmas in Singapore. Sitting close to the equator, it was hot and sunny. We did get to late night church at the local Anglican church -- odd, with the windows open and anthuriums and orchids in with the poinsettias. No family that year and every time I walked into our hotel and heard the kids' choirs singing carols, I'd burst into tears.

I'm older now -- experienced Christmases with kids away from home and parents passing -- I know life isn't always what we want or what we expect. But I have learned that there is a bottom line. God IS and Christmas IS and so, even though this day was not as I had planned, I'm still celebrating. I hope you are, too!

The Christmas Blizzard of '09

2009-12-24T13:34:00.000-08:00

"Oh the weather outside is frightful...!" Oh, yeah. It started with rain and sleet this morning and morphed into a big snow storm. The snow's been falling for hours now and (for Oklahoma) it's gotten pretty deep -- deep enough that I offered to go look for the mail because I have snow boots and Jack just has loafers.

Roxie is frustrated because she doesn't like stuff falling on her -- especially when it's wet stuff. And how can you pee when you can't find a blade of grass? I've taken her out a couple of times but she's keeping her legs crossed as she skitters back to the door!

I can't deny that it looks beautiful. And I'm nice and cozy inside the house and watching one of my Christmas faves -- "White Christmas." Still, we won't be able to get up the driveway and go to church tonight. Don't know if we can get enough shoveled off in the morning to get to Jay's and Carolyn's to watch the boys open prezzies. They're supposed to come over here for dinner tomorrow night -- can you smell the turkey roasting? -- but who knows if they'll be able to get out of their neighborhood. For now, I'm just happy we're all inside and warm, all healthy, and we have plenty to eat. We are truly blessed.

Catching Up

2009-12-20T20:06:00.000-08:00

I can't believe it's been so long since I've posted! What a busy couple of weeks. I did post on http://www.teddietravels.com/ so that the school kids could keep up with Vanilla before their Christmas vacation but I just didn't get around to posting here. So here goes.

The first of the month I went to Nashville -- I hadn't been since 2001. The purpose was to enjoy the Christmas attractions like the decorations at the Opryland Hotel,

to see the Radio City Rockettes Christmas Show,

and generally celebrate the season. (Including a great dinner at the Capitol Grille in the historic Hermitage Hotel)

But I also enjoyed some of the year-round goodies Nashville has to offer. The Country Music Hall of Fame is fabulous -- even for someone who isn't a big country music fan.

The new symphony hall is gorgeous. I think the symphony is probably excellent. Hate to sound like a philistine, but the program the night we attended was so dissonant that I couldn't tell if the orchestra and chorus got the music right or not. Two of the three pieces were chosen to recognize the 200th anniversary of Edgar Allan Poe's birth. Or maybe death -- he wasn't exactly the King of Jollies. And neither was the music. I was scratching in the bottom of my purse for an anti-depressant but Staci came up with a better idea.

Honky-tonkin'! Oh, yeah, nobody does it better than Nashville!

Best of Both Seasons

2009-11-28T20:47:00.000-08:00

Bellingrath Gardens is gorgeous any time of year but on our recent trip, we got to sample both the fall chrysanthemum extravaganza and the Christmas display (as they tested the lights). There were still quite a few roses in the Rotary Rose Garden. The rose below is called Dream Come True.

Mums were everywhere -- in borders, draped over the balconies of the Bellingrath home and

cascading fron the bridge over Mirror Lake.

We got to the Gardens early enough to see the mums in daylight then, as darkness fell, to enjoy the many lights. Scenes ranged from a Christmas living room scene

to an undersea fantasy.

These poinsettias were among my favorites.

Bellingrath Gardens is one of Alabama's true treasures!

Family Feasting

2009-11-23T20:31:00.000-08:00

Now for something completely different. I'm thankful for so many things but top of my list is family and I'm looking forward to seeing almost everyone on Thanksgiving Day. We're missing Zoe and Simon -- doing their own version of Thanksgiving this weekend in England. I mailed cans of pumpkin so Zoe could make a pumpkin pie. Not sure what they'll do about turkey since they are vegetarians. Anyway, Thanksgiving here will be great with Jay and Carolyn and the boys (several years younger in the picture above), Carolyn's mom and sister and niece Alyssa. We're hoping Jack's 96 year-old mother will feel like joining us.

Nobody in my family likes dark meat so I'll be fixing two large turkey breasts. We'll have dressing and gravy, cranberry sauce, green bean casserole, a jello salad and sweet potatoes. I love my sweet potato recipe because it has all the taste without a lot of calories. My gift to you is my recipe:

Canned cut sweet potatoes to equal about 5 cups

! cup unsweetened applesauce

1 tsp. vanilla

1/2 tsp. cinnamon

1 egg yolk

2 egg whites

1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar

2 tbs. all-purpose flour

2 tbs. chopped pecans

2 tbs. margarine, melted

10 servings -- approximately 210 calories, 2 grams of fat and 2 grams of fiber

In a food processor, blend sweet potatoes, applesauce and vanilla until smooth. Add spices and egg yolk and continue to blend until smooth. Spoon into a large bowl and set aside.

In another bowl, beat room temperature egg whites until stiff peaks form. Stir a third of the egg whites into the sweet potatoes then gently fold in the remainder.

Spoon into a 1 1/2 quart souffle dish which has been sprayed with cooking spray.

Combine the melted butter, brown sugar, flour and pecans and sprinkle over the top. Bake in a pre-heated 350-degree oven for about 35 minutes or until set.

Enjoy!

Ghosts of Old Mesilla

2009-11-14T13:23:00.001-08:00

I LOVE Mesilla, New Mexico, a little town just south of Las Cruces. The first permanent residents settled here in 1848. Thanks to a mistaken Yankee mapmaker, Mesilla was in "no man's land." When most of the state was ceded to the U.S. by the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, it was discovered that the depiction on the map was wrong and a little chunk of southwest New Mexico and a slice of southern Arizona were unaccounted for. The Gadsden purchase in 1853, settled the boundary dispute. The old town clustered around a central plaza -- a defense against raiding Apaches. Many of the buildings here date back to the 1850s.

Our group was led on a walking tour of the historic district by Preciliana, an enthusiastic and voluble guide dressed as an "adelita" -- a female "soldier" in the army of Pancho Villa.

She regaled us with stories of Old Mesilla and ghosts of days gone by. One of her best stories concerned the building that now houses the Double Eagle restaurant. Though not approaching its current opulence, the home was large and impressive for its time. The matriarch of the Maes family, the owners, had grand plans for her son Armando -- no local senorita was good enough. Armando, however, fell in love with Inez, one of his mother's maids. When Senora Maes discovered this, she drove Inez from the house. But not from the arms of Armando. One afternoon, returning earlier than expected, Mama Maes found Armando and Inez in an intimate situation in Armando's room. Grabbing her sewing scissors, she stabbed Inez. In the struggle, she also stabbed Armando -- killing the two lovers. The star-crossed specters still inhabit the property.

Today the highly popular restaurant has a reputation for fine cuisine -- and they make a mean Margarita. There are a number of dining areas -- from the twinkle-light-bedecked enclosed patio to the elegant gold Maximillian room with its Baccarat crystal chandeliers.

There are two chairs in the corner of Carlotta's Room (once Armando's bedroom) said to belong to the ill-fated couple. Superstitious people refuse to sit in them. I am not one of those people. No shrieking shades followed me into the night and my slumber was undisturbed.

The Naked Truth

2009-11-06T18:34:00.000-08:00

European massage -- how do I say this -- observes a different standard of modesty than American massage. Thank goodness I've had a lot of massages and thank goodness for the kindness of Donna Long who'd had one before and clued me in before the experience.

And thank goodness for Norma, the grandmotherly manager of the spa, who hailed from Birmingham, England and spoke English. Otherwise I might have wound up putting my paper panties on my head. Yep, we were each handed packets containing a shower cap and a pair of (Norma's term) paper panties -- more like a strip of gauzy paper on a rubber band!

I carefully arranged myself on the massage table, covering as much of me as possible with the towel I found there. I needn't have bothered. Let's put it this way -- my first panicked thought was "I should have checked to make sure I don't have belly-button lint!"

What the heck, it was a great massage; the masseuse was a professional and, well, I suppose if you've seen one, you've seen them both!

And, in case you wondered, that's me in the Niagara bath -- a jetted tub full of spring water with clay and minerals.

Stuffed -- Like a Spanish Olive

2009-11-02T20:42:00.000-08:00

Eating was a significant part of my visit to Spain and we had the opportunity to sample many of the local delicacies during our stay. Fish and seafood make up a big part of the Galician diet -- unfortunately for me, since I'm not a big fish fan. I did find some real favorites, though. These scallops -- in "Albarino Wine Sauce in its Shell and on a Bed of Salt" -- really hit the spot. And the setting, the 600-plus-year-old Pazo de San Lorenzo certainly added to the enjoyment!

Another night we visited a tapas bar and tried a number of items. I loved these prawns.

I took this picture in a fishmonger's window. Octopus, or pulpo, is as common as hamburgers in Edmond.
Here's a dish of pulpo at the tapas restaurant. And yes, I did try it. It wasn't bad but falls in the category of "Okay, I ate it once, don't have to do it again" along with raw oysters and rattlesnake.
I've already written about the amazing hot chocolate but haven't mentioned the Tarta de Santiago. This is a sweet almond cake topped with powdered sugar and the cross of St. James.

I really fell in love with Galician cheeses -- they make some wonderful ones. My favorite was Tetilla. I'm not sure if it's called "titty" cheese because it wound up looking like a woman's breast or if the cheese makers had a little too much Albarino and said "Let's see if we can make these cheeses look like boobs." Whatever, it's a beautiful, creamy, mild cheese.

The toughest thing about eating in Spain was the late dinners. Everywhere we went, people graciously fed us copious amounts of food -- two hour lunches were standard. So it was almost bedtime before we wanted to even think about eating more. And that was time for the multi-course feast that also lasted two to three hours.

Everything was beautifully presented. The tables gleamed with crystal and silver. No one could have been more charming or welcoming. You'll be proud of me -- I did my best to show my appreciation by eating as much as possible!

I Love You, Santiago!

2009-10-27T20:20:00.000-07:00

It was a gorgeous day the day we arrived in Santiago de Compostela. Our flight had been great and I even got several hours of sleep. So rather than taking a nap, I took to the streets with my camera. The icon of the city is the Cathedral. Later than afternoon several of us went to Mass.

The cathedral is on the east side of a large square and our hotel -- Hostal de los Reyes Catholicos -- was on the north side. This is one of Spain's paradors -- the government turns historic buildings into fantastic hotels. This is quite likely the world's oldest hotel -- founded in 1499 by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain to house pilgrims who came to the shrine of Saint James. I loved my room and the hotel was wonderful -- beautiful rooms, courtyards, furnishings and a gracious staff.

The first music I heard in Spain was the last I expected to hear -- bagpipes! This northwest corner of the country has a great Celtic heritage. Cut off from the rest of Spain by mountains, Galicia was very different from my expectations -- and I loved it.

Spanish Amulet

2009-10-19T07:08:00.000-07:00

When Andreas told us he had an amulet in his pocket, we thought he said omelet! He struggled to pull out a small ceramic figure -- oh, amulet! He says Galicians are suspicious but he isn´t -- still he carries an amulet just in case.... His particular amulet protects him from hypocrites. You can buy different ones to protect you from other things or you can make a hand gesture for general protection.

Andreas was our guide to the Archbishop´s Palace and roof of the cathedral. His English was actually quite good but he apologized for it, saying it "sucked." Patricia (our hostess) told him if he knew that slang term, he was doing fine.

Yesterday was beautifully sunny and I took full advantage -- taking lots of pictures. Today is gray and cooler -- I needed my jacket. Even the exercise of climbing the stairs didn´t warm me too much.

Once you reach the second floor of the palace, you have 84 more tall steps to the roof. We climbed out onto the the granite shingles of the roof -- I don´t know what else to call them. They looked like the same stone used throughout the cathedral. From there we got a bird´s eye view of the bell tower, the rattle tower and the clock tower. The bell and rattle towers are on the front of the cathedral. There are 15 bells in the bell tower, which is the southernmost of the two towers. During Holy Week (I think in the past, don´t think so now, must check this out) they didn´t ring the bells since they were associated with joy so they used a large rattling instrument.

One of today´s highlights was stopping at a convent to buy pasteries from the nuns. We took them to a coffeeshop and Patricia bought me a chocolate espeso (since I don´t drink coffee). This is a wonderful, dark hot chocolate drink almost as thick as pudding. That should keep me awake for a while! And no, that isn't Patricia -- it's a lovely lady at the coffeeshop. I'm sorry I didn't get her name. Tonight we went out for tapas. I thought we'd be in about 10. Obviously, I'm not with the program yet. In Spain dinner starts at 9! We got home at midnight.

Blogstipation

2009-10-16T17:19:00.000-07:00

Please don't give up on me! I've been up to my ... in alligators -- literally and figuratively. Just got home from a great trip to Beaumont, Texas, and I leave in the morning for Santiago de Compostela, Spain! Hopefully, I'll catch up when I get home. In the meantime, please hang with me -- check http://www.teddietravel.blogspot.com/ , the site belonging to my traveling teddy Vanilla and, if I can get to a computer, I'll try to pop in to Facebook while I'm gone. See you soon!

Massage and More

2009-09-30T20:32:00.000-07:00

Zoe and Jack and Roxy and I are in Broken Bow, Oklahoma -- about as far southeast in Oklahoma as you can get -- close to where Texas, Arkansas and Oklahoma meet. This is one of the prettiest parts of Oklahoma but, for many years, has been one of the poorest. The area has, in the past ten years, had an influx of wealthy Texans -- mostly from the Metroplex -- coming here to enjoy the gorgeous lake, rivers, and pine forests. So elegant accommodations have sprung up to meet the need.

I love this part of the state so when I got an invitation to check out a new spa, I jumped at the chance. But this is no ordinary spa -- no mani/pedis, facials, etc. What you will get is the most amazing body treatment you ever had. There are elements of massage but it's really a banquet for your skin delivered with the most nurturing touch plus the added element of music, the vibrations of which will get your body humming harmonically with the sound and feel of the melody.

The result is relaxation so profound that I was reduced to a state of overdone pasta. Zoe put it a little more definitively so I'm including her description.

Here's Zoe:

"The next time someone tells me to 'go to my happy place,' I’m going to Body Harmony in Broken Bow, Oklahoma.

More than just a massage, Body Harmony offers a treatment unlike anything I’ve previously experienced.

Skin Treatment

The bulk of the treatment involves drizzling melted shea butter on the skin then rubbing with Dead Sea salts. The salts exfoliate and the shea butter moisturizes.

Nutrient Therapy

The salts aren’t just Sodium Chloride. They are 90% trace minerals, which your skin soaks up as the heat opens your pores. We don’t usually get enough trace minerals through food or supplements.

Healing Touch

The massage itself is gentle and relaxing. You don’t talk, and you don’t move, letting the therapist move your head, legs, and arms. The massage starts with your head and face (many massages neglect the face), moves to the legs, each arm, and then your back. The shea butter is an ideal massage oil and the salt increases circulation. Then you are swaddled in heated towels, first moist and then dry, and covered with a blanket as the next appendage is addressed.

Musical Beds

No, you don’t jump up and change places with another client when the music stops! The massage tables used by Body Harmony are completely unique, channeling the vibrations of the ambient music straight into your body. Our auditory accompaniment featured the sounds of rain, and feeling the thunder resonate through my solar plexus felt so … natural. After the first few minutes, you don’t really notice the vibration, but it subtly adds to the relaxation. The table is also topped with thick memory foam which molds to your curves and provides custom support. You feel cradled in the table rather than perched on top, and there are no pressure points.

Total Relaxation

The combination of the shea butter massage and salt scrub, the hot towels, the therapeutic technique, and the Body Harmony table, left me about as relaxed as I can ever remember being. The treatment also encourages the release of endorphins (you know, those feel-good chemicals your brain releases when you’re having a good time) which battles cortisol, the stress hormone we’re all carrying around pretty much 24/7.

No matter what your previous experiences with massage, I guarantee you’ve never had anything quite like a Body Harmony treatment. I can’t recommend it enough and hope to have another go someday!"

As for me -- yeah, what she said!

To Market, To Market

2009-09-21T20:36:00.000-07:00

Visiting local farmers' markets is one of my favorite things. And I always think of one of my favorite movies -- the 1981 "Four Seasons" with Alan Alda, Carol Burnett, Rita Moreno, Jack Weston and Sandy Dennis. Dennis plays an obsessive photographer who is focusing (literally!) on vegetables.

I totally get it. The colors and shapes are irresistible.

The market in Birmingham, Alabama, is one of the best! Between the squash and the scuppernongs (the white grapes larger than the end of your thumb), the photo ops were endless -- which is why I'm posting more pictures than text.

And the piece de resistance is the tomato shot -- I couldn't believe my luck. I hope you enjoy these photos as much as I enjoyed taking them.

Writers Gone Rogue

2009-09-14T19:16:00.000-07:00

I know people think the life of a travel writer is just one long party but the truth is, we work long hours, rush from place to place never spending enough time to really enjoy museums or galleries, and then spend hours writing and trying to find homes for our articles in an increasingly tight market.

Are you feeling properly sorry for us? Well, everything I said is true but it's also true that we have a lot of fun -- sometimes to the point of silliness. I have to admit that my own sense of humor often sinks to fifth grade level -- you know, booger and underpants jokes. And when we can find an accomplice, so much the better. Here the elegant and sophisticated Mary Hendron cooperates in a 2008, South Dakota, nose-picking photo op. So when my buddy Libba Young promised to show me the biggest ass in Alabama -- I knew it was time for misbehavior.

The statue of Vulcan, which has stood on a bluff overlooking the city of Birmingham since the 1930s, was designed and cast by Italian artist Guiseppe Moretti in 1904. "Vulcan" is the largest cast iron statue in the world. He symbolizes the importance of industry -- particularly the iron and steel industry -- to the city. Fifty-six feet tall, mounted on a 124-foot pedestal, it's a city icon. And it's REALLY ugly. And Libba didn't exaggerate -- it has unbelievably prominent naked butt cheeks.

Be honest -- these buns were made for mockin'!

In this shot Vulcan is too remote to get the full buttockal effect but props to Libba for the interesting angle.

I gave it a shot -- better bunnage but I couldn't get Libba's face in the frame.

Were the results worth the time we spent? I definitely think so. It's always a good day when I LMAO!

Hot Spot

2009-09-05T15:35:00.000-07:00

One of Oklahoma City's hottest dining spots is the Iguana Grill, 9 Northwest 9th Street. It opened in June of last year -- but I just got around to trying it the other night. Small, in a 1905 building tucked between Broadway and the railroad tracks, it may be a bit off the beaten path -- but folks are beating a new one to get here. With an attractive outdoor patio and several dining areas, it was packed full of people looking for food and fun -- both available here.

Colorful paintings hang on the walls. It's noisy, both with recorded music and talking, laughing guests.

And the food? Chef Ryan Parrott rocks! As a Weight Watcher, eating out is a challenge and a Mexican restaurant provides many temptations. Twelve tortilla chips uses up 3 points -- but how can I resist? I get my own plate, count out my chips and break them into pieces. Then I go after the salsa! And the salsa here was superb -- fresh, tomato-y, just a bit of heat and not too much cilantro.

One of my buddies and I split this order of Enchilada de Camarones -- two large tortillas filled with sauteed shrimp and a chipotle tomato sauce and covered with cheese and a sour cream sauce. For our sides, we chose fresh fruit -- peaches, apples, mangoes and pineapple -- and grilled vegetables. The sour cream and cheese pushed the points envelope but by splitting and adding healthy sides, I was able to work it into my allotted points (this is where the extra 35 come in handy!) The serving was ample enough that we were both satisfied and I can't wait to go back and try some other specialties like the Chile Rellenos -- fresh Anaheim peppers dusted with blue corn and filled with adobo chicken (I'll have to pass on the one filled with the four-cheeses). While this restaurant is worthy of a splurge, you can enjoy a number of choices without straining your budget or worrying about your next weigh-in.

The Play's the Thing

2009-08-31T19:08:00.000-07:00

Back in a previous life, I spent a lot of time at various theaters with my daughter Zoe. In one of her previous lives, she was headed for a career on the stage -- and she got her start with Oklahoma Shakespeare in the Park. For the first couple of years, she spent a lot of time with her legs unshaved playing servant boys. Her shining moment came in a production of "Romeo and Juliet" when at the dance, questioned by Romeo about the identity of the lovely Juliet, she answered, "I know not, sir." The line was short but she had a lot of power. She could have blurted out, "You dummy, don't you know that's Juliet Capulet? You'd better am-scray before her family finds you here!" She wielded her power with discretion and never missed her line.

After she went off to school, it just wasn't the same going to the theater without her being there and being involved. So I sort of got out of the habit. In the meantime, Shakespeare in the Park moved out of Edmond and to downtown Oklahoma City.

I needed some photos of outdoor theater, so Jack, a friend, and I went downtown last Friday night to see "Twelfth Night." The weather was fabulous, the venue idyllic and the play a delight. I've been missing a lot by not enjoying all the OSP productions.

You have three more chances to see the last play of the summer season -- Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. Do yourself a favor and "get thee to a ...." theater! Below is a picture of my pick for actor of the evening -- Kal Kohlman as Malvolio.

And Now a Word from our Sponsor

2009-08-22T14:14:00.000-07:00

Not really, but this is an unabashed advert for the beautiful jewelry my daughter Zoe and her friend Becca make in Penzance, England. Zoe's coming to visit in a few weeks and, if you would like to order anything, she can bring it with her and save you the cost of shipping.

I love their Celtic Lace pieces like the rose quartz and hematite bracelet and earrings above and the Crimson Lace necklace and earrings below. Each of the links is patiently hand-twisted and I love the Celtic/Cornish connection.

Zoe and Becca do a variety of pieces including necklaces like this one with a Tibetan silver puffed heart, crackle beads and a tiny seahorse dangle.

One of their cleverest ideas is a combo with earrings mounted on a piece of art (with hanger and stand on the back). The collection is called "Too Pretty to Hide" and this piece (including the five pairs of earrings) is "Target Artwear."

Please check the web site: http://www.silversistersdesign.co.uk/ for more details. Remember, prices are in British pounds. At the current exchange rate, each pound equals $1.65. The pieces are hand-made and one-of-a-kind. Just let Zoe (zoe.mcaden@hotmail.com) or me know ahead of time, in case the pieces you want are already sold. She and Becca can suggest something similar or create one with colors of your choosing.

Bloomin' Iris

2009-08-18T08:27:00.000-07:00

I just got a press release from Ken Rundel in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, and couldn't have been more delighted to see that one of my all-time favorite shops (and those of you who know me know I'm not a big shopper so it takes a lot to impress me) -- Iris at the Basin Park -- was named one of America's top retailers by NICHE magazine. Nearly 600 craft galleries, retail stores, arts nonprofits, museums shops, etc. were nominated by professional fine crafts artists from the U.S. and Canada. Of these 600 outlets, about two dozen were named recipients of the 2009 Top Retailers Awards.

This shop is one of the first places I head when I go to Eureka Springs. Owners Iris and Rick Feutz have eyes for the unusual and the shop just snaps with sensuality -- gorgeous colors, surfaces that beg to be caressed, pure pleasure interpreted in glass, paint, fabrics. Yep, I love this shop. And obviously, I'm not alone.

Congratulations Iris at the Basin Park -- and Eureka Springs, art capital of Mid-America!

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Top Attraction

2009-08-14T15:46:00.000-07:00

I've been to Discoveryland! to see Oklahoma! a couple of times and I've seen the movie and other productions of the play more times than I can count. So, while I knew I'd have a nice evening, I wasn't really expecting to be so swept away by the whole experience. Needing photos for a future assignment, this was just another job.

My friend Bev Schmoyer and I were guests of Discoveryland! founder Bill Jeffers. He treated us to the ultimate evening -- dinner, dessert, popcorn, soft drinks, all the pre-show activities, the Territory Review before the main production, and the musical. The dinner was tasty -- I had the chopped beef sandwich and Bev had the rib-eye steak sandwich. These were accompanied by corn, potato salad, baked beans and garnishes.

We visited with Bear O'Field, a Cherokee-Creek Indian, who danced for visitors and watched the Pony Express ride off with post cards purchased at the Trading Post. Then we got our dessert -- ice cream topped with strawberries -- yum!

Before the regular show starts, there's a variety show with lots of singing and dancing. Hmmm, those singers were really good and the dancing was skilled and enthusiastic -- actually extraordinarily good. I was getting an interesting vibe -- this evening was becoming more than I expected.

Next came the Overture. Discoveryland! doesn't have an orchestra -- they use recorded music but the system is top-notch and the sound was just fine. Carol Lavelle Snow as Aunt Eller came on stage and eased us into Oklahoma Territory. Coming through the trees and over a bridge, Eli Budwill -- Curly -- rode onto the stage and began the beautiful "Oh, What A Beautiful Mornin'."
Tall, good-looking, and great voice -- definitely above the average. And the play just got better and better.

I'd bet this cast and this production would be comfortable on Broadway or in London's West End. Yes, I'd seen the play before but Eli, Ally Ridley (Laurey), Carly Casey (Ado Annie), Levi Lawson (Jud Fry) and the rest of the cast made the production fresh and new. As my grandkids would say -- they owned it!

After the show, we met some of the cast members -- five of them are students at the University of Central Oklahoma in the Music Theatre Department, and one, Brett Rottmayer, is a graduate of the school. Auditions are held in many areas of the country and competition to appear at Discoveryland! is keen. These UCO performers aren't here because they're local but because they're so good.

Bev and I had a great evening and what started as sort of a duty quickly became a real treat. Thank you Bill Jeffers, all the friendly people at Discoveryland! and especially the talented cast for a memorable evening. Saturday night is the last show of the season. I wish I'd come earlier so I could come again this year! But I will be visiting again in the future -- and I'll be bringing more friends. Friends don't let friends miss Discoveryland!

Grand A-Cheevers-ment

2009-08-11T14:05:00.000-07:00

Ah, research, it's a tough job but somebody has to do it. And so I had lunch at Cheever's on 23rd Street in Oklahoma City. It's in a historic building -- built in 1927 for Cheever's Florist, a company that is still in business (12236 North May) and still owned by the same family. When the building was sold, the trademark Cheever's name stayed on the building and it was turned into a great little restaurant owned by the Good Egg Dining Company. Heather and Keith Paul, and Sean Ray, who founded the company, also own Red Prime Steakhouse, Iron Starr Urban Bar-B-Q, and Market-C (more about that later).

Robert Black is the executive chef for the entire restaurant group -- and he is a genius. I fell in love with his cuisine several years ago when he was executive chef for the Museum Cafe at the Oklahoma City Museum of Art. Ryan Lawson is executive chef at Cheever's. So there was a lot of experience behind my lunch!

My friend Melyn and I started with the bread basket as soon as it hit the table. It contained four dainty dinner rolls -- delicately flavored with rosemary and thyme -- served with a little tub of butter protected by a round of parchment with a scrolled C on top. My entree was Mixed Seafood Tamales -- chunks of lobster, shrimp, halibut and scallops with black beans and corn over a sweet potato masa tamale and topped with an ancho cream. Was it good? It was all I could do to keep from licking the plate!

The whole Weight Watchers thing kept me from ordering dessert but didn't keep me from going next door to Market-C and salivating over the choices. Market-C, which opened late last fall, was originally a Phillips 66 filling station. I'd guess -- but I don't know -- that it's about the same vintage as Cheever's. Good Egg has paid homage to the past with the traditional green and orange Phillips 66 color scheme.

Inside, you'll find take-and-heat goodies from the Good Egg restaurants, desserts, condiments and kitchen items. Here's a picture of the Giant Carrot Cake -- six layers of cake with cream cheese icing. You can see why I passed on dessert. Next time, maybe I'll go for dessert and pass on the entree!

La Fooda Loca

2009-08-10T14:17:00.001-07:00

Well, I managed to stretch my birthday into a birthweek! A week after the actual day -- when we were all available -- I celebrated with friends Terry Earnheart and Beverly Schmoyer. They took me to the Paseo Grill, a great restaurant in Oklahoma City's artiest area.

Those of you who have been following this blog know that I have to work hard to balance my love of food and enjoyment of writing about it with my desire to fit in an airplane seat. Weight Watchers has been wonderful. I have to keep track of what I eat -- yeah, it's kind of a pain but not as painful as not being able to zip my jeans. By doing this, I can plan for special times and there's almost nothing I can't enjoy.

My choice today was the Crab and Avocado Salad -- jumbo lump crab meat and avocado served with a Parmesan crisp and mixed greens drizzled with lemon vinaigrette and garnished with capers, basil, red bell peppers and red onions. I thoroughly enjoyed the combination of colors, tastes and textures.

So I managed to have a satisfying lunch and still keep on the right track with my eating plan-- then the birthday treat arrived. And it was a wonderful little wine glass with fresh berries topped with just enough whipped cream to hold the candle. Hooray for me and hooray for Weight Watchers! And a really big hooray for the Paseo Grill.

More Foodie 101

2009-08-02T15:13:00.001-07:00

One day on the Prince William County press trip, we had the option to take the train into D.C. to tour museums. Normally, I'd jump at that but, I reasoned, I wouldn't be spending enough time in D.C. to do the kind of story I like to do. So I, along with writer Shirley Moskow from Boston, opted to stay behind. Kathy Martin with the PWC/Manassas CVB offered to be our chauffeur for the day. We both wanted to return to Occoquan -- neither of us had had time to see the town on the first day of the trip.

After some other stops, we arrived in Occoquan in time for lunch at Madigan's. The day was gorgeous and eating outside was an appealing prospect. The menu offered a lot of temptations but this is prime crab country so my choices narrowed a bit. I asked for a taste of the crab chowder and our waiter brought me a small sample. I all but stuck my tongue in the cup! It was rich and creamy with plenty of crab meat and fresh vegetables. My ultimate choice was the crabcake sandwich with remoulade sauce on the side. Mmmmmm -- good choice. Lots and lots of crabmeat with little, if any, filler.

Great food, good company and the beautiful green river flowing by. It was one of those perfect moments you want to capture and save -- when everything in your immediate world seems perfect. My friend Betty Neal says this is a "Kingdom of God" moment. I love the idea that the Kingdom of God includes crabcakes!

Foodie 101

2009-07-31T19:27:00.000-07:00

I feel a couple of food blogs coming on. On our recent press trip to Virginia, I started early one morning with a visit to the Manassas farmers' market. Are you old enough to remember the Alan Alda movie "The Four Seasons"? In it, Sandy Dennis plays a photographer obsessed with vegetables. That was me at the market. What gorgeous fruits and vegetables! And look at the size of this berry!

The array was amazing -- corn, eggplant, cantelope -- a rainbow of vitamins! And the tomatoes -- every shape and color.

And they had lots of heirloom tomatoes -- not as photogenic -- my favorites are Cherokee purple. I couldn't help myself; I bought three, not knowing what I was going to do with them. Patty Tracy of Historic Manassas stepped in and offered to take them to Robert Barolin, chef/owner of City Square Cafe where I intended to have lunch.

What a great idea! When we got to the restaurant, the waitress brought out this lovely bowl of tomatoes and we shared them around the table.

For my lunch, I ordered the Southern Shrimp Salad -- grilled shrimp over mixed greens with tomatoes, red onions, corn and a blend of Cheddar and Monterrey Jack cheese. This was tossed with a chipotle ranch dressing and served with a crispy tortilla shell. And it was as good as it looks!

Iconic Architecture

2009-07-28T19:17:00.000-07:00

We turned off the main road and up a curving driveway. There was no hint of what was ahead -- just tall trees and green grass. Then, around another curve, there was this amazing building. It was stunning -- an instant WOW, even before I understood the significance of the design.
This is the Museum of the Marine Corps at Quantico in Prince William County, Virginia. A striking shaft 210' feet in length shoots out of the base building at a 45 degree angle. Squint your eyes and it becomes the pole of the flag raised at Iwo Jima. And inside you'll see that flag -- now tattered. This fabulous building is a perfect setting for an impressive museum honoring "the few, the proud." The architect is Curtis Worth Fentress of Frentress Bradburn Architects, Denver. Among his other works are the Denver International Airport and the expansion and renovation of the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Center here in Oklahoma City.

Happy Birthday to Me!

2009-07-26T19:11:00.000-07:00

The older I get, the longer I like to spread out my birthday. I just had the second day of it. Yesterday I was in Prince William County, Virginia, on a press trip. First big birthday treat yesterday was an email from Jack. Then, at the Marine Museum in Quantico, the press group -- and our Marine docent -- sang Happy Birthday to me in the rotunda of the museum. What a neat surprise. But then at dinner, the restaurant brought out a big dessert with extra spoons and the group sang again and gave me a neat card they'd all signed. So I felt well and truly celebrated yesterday.
I called Jay when I got into town today and he sang to me and he, Carolyn, Austin, Calvin and Alexander came over tonight with prezzies. Tomorrow I'll talk to Zoe and she'll sing to me, too.
I love my birthday!!!!

She's Baaaaaack

2009-07-08T19:17:00.000-07:00

Ah, I'm having a life! Last Sunday night -- late -- I sent off the last of my 109,000 words about Tulsa. I know there will be more work to do on it but it feels good to have a little break. If I had my way, the book would never be done -- I really worked hard and put a lot into it but there's always more...... What a great town Tulsa is.

So Monday morning early, we left for Texas so I could catch up with some work that got pushed aside during the book. We spent two nights in Salado -- the most delightful little village. People speed by on I-35 -- it's between Waco and Austin -- and never realize what a historic and charming spot they're missing.

Jack and I finally got around to celebrating our 48th wedding anniversary with a sentimental dinner at the Stagecoach Inn. Part of this historic inn dates back to 1860. The recipes are pure 1940s -- they're so popular that the restaurant can't change them! Jack and I ate here the first time about 43 years ago. We were on our way to Padre with my folks. We've stopped a couple of other times -- once when Zoe was showing her horse in Waco over Thanksgiving. Jay and Carolyn were in Austin where Jay was finishing his master's. Mom and Dad were there and of course Zoe and Jack and me.

Honest to goodness, this place has the best hushpuppies in the entire world. We talked to Morris Foster who now owns the place and he told us that the only ingredients are cornmeal, water and oil -- but the water has to be 40 degrees and the hushpuppies must be hand-rolled. Whatever, they had the most delicate crust -- as thin as the first skin of ice on an October pond. And inside, hot, light and wonderful.

I managed to wade in the creek twice -- once behind our bed and breakfast and the next day to get a good photo of Sirena, the little mermaid who sits by one of the springs that feeds the creek. Today I interviewed Kay Campbell at Paint Rock. There are over 1500 Native American pictographs on the bluffs on their property. She and her husband have been married 59 years and they are the most delightful couple. Kay showed me an article Rogayle Franklin wrote about her in AAA Texas Journey. She got a kick out of the fact that the youngsters in California, who edit the magazine, were concerned about publishing an article about someone of her maturity -- figuring she had to be senile or dead! Leslie, no offense intended, but Kay and Fred are probably in much better shape than your staff members will be at the same age! They are a delightful couple and it was a real pleasure to visit with them.

Will you get to see a picture of them? Wish I knew. I'm still having MAJOR computer/photo issues and I couldn't get off the computer long enough to take it back to the guys who messed it up. As soon as I get these Texas articles, plus a Lake Charles/L/Auberge article done for Southwestern Pubs (all due Monday), the computer's headed for the shop!

Blind and Silent

2009-05-27T20:00:00.000-07:00

Okay, it's been way too long since I've blogged -- but I have an excuse. First of all, I'm up to my armpits in the Tulsa guidebook project. Time is fleeting and the word count isn't rising nearly fast. But worse than that -- the last time I had my computer worked on, when it came back, the program that I use to upload my photos to the computer had disappeared. So I haven't been able to get my pics off the camera -- all nine million England photos are just sitting there. I'm headed to Tulsa for two days so Jack is taking the computer back to Computerzone. I'll keep you posted.

Legless but Smiling

2009-05-16T23:47:00.000-07:00

That's the slogan for Scrumpy produced by Healey's Cornish Cyder Farm -- and how I feel about our trip. We've done a LOT of walking. Some days we'll get back to the flat and I'll think I can't possibly make it up the stairs -- but I always do.

The Cyder Farm was lovely -- with acres of trees in bloom. They produce not only Scrumpy -- a traditional hard cider which was actually, at one time, a method of payment for farm workers -- but a number of different wines, jams, jellies, chutneys and even straight apple juice.

Parts of the buildings are 100 to 150 years old and there is a small museum with antique tools and equipment on the property. We took the tour, sampled the products and spent money in the gift shop. Jack forgot to bring a hat and his head has been getting red so now he sports a jaunty, green baseball cap with the "Legless but Smiling" motto.

Zoe's a whiz at driving here -- we've ginned all over the countryside -- through large towns like Truro and Falmouth and tiny hamlets with names like Water Ma Trout and my favorite, Praze-an-Beeble. Sounds like a pentacostal church service.

This day we went to Mousehole (pronounced Mouw-zel) and, yes, that's a two-way street. Mousehole has a lovely little harbor, interesting shops and galleries and Nigel Hallard. We were lucky to catch him in his gallery/studio-- wish I could afford one of his paintings. Here he's working on a painting of St. Michael's Mount -- a favorite subject for painters including J.M.W. Turner.

As you can see, it was a beautiful day for walking. Weather watching here is frustrating because, even with a sky like this, it's just as likely to become totally overcast and raining in 15 minutes! I spend a lot of time putting on layers and taking layers off!

Meanwhile, back at the flat, we have a fairly regular visitor. Zoe's named him Bandit and he's a shameless beggar of bread.

I Promised You Photos --

2009-05-14T14:16:00.000-07:00

And here are pictures of the ecclesiastical furnishings at Newlyn's Trinity Church. Copper work by Michael Johnson; woodwork by Dave Need.

Room with a View

2009-05-10T07:14:00.000-07:00

This is the view that greets me when I look south out of my front window in the morning. That's Newlyn, the next village over. The last time we were here Jack and I went to church in Newlyn. Julyan Drew, the minister who did Zoe and Simon's blessing ceremony, is the minister at Trinity Methodist Church there. Julyan was just as impressive this time as the last time -- he's an intelligent, engaging preacher and his message was thought-provoking and inspiring.

On our last visit we were so taken with the beautiful copper and oak lectern, baptistry and furnishings that we wanted to meet the man who made them. We achieved half our goal. The coppersmith is Michael Johnson, a wonderful artist and craftsman. We visited with him in his studio -- Newlyn Copper Works -- on Friday. Michael worked with woodworker Dave Need who made all the beautiful oak pieces.

Newlyn was once noted for its superb copper creations and Michael is working to restore that reputation. Here he is with a monstrance he created in memory of a friend. We took pictures of the church pieces this morning and I'll add them when Zoe downloads my photos.

This is a photo I took on the walk back from Newlyn. We walked along the shore -- this is looking north to Penzance. You can see the steeple of St. Mary's church on the right.

One of the little shops along the way had fresh, Cornish strawberries and we couldn't resist. Every single berry was perfectly ripe and luscious -- unlike the ones we get at home where half of the berries in the basket are, if not downright green, at best a sickly pink! And these tasted as good as they looked.

For a report on our trip to the Seal Sanctuary, check Teddy's blog -- Teddietravel.blogspot.com

Garden Heaven at Heligan

2009-05-07T14:15:00.000-07:00

Jack and I wanted to come to England in the spring because we love rhododendrons and today we saw some amazing ones. They towered over us -- one was 75 feet across at the crown. We visited the Lost Gardens of Heligan south of St. Austell -- I think it was about 40 miles from here. The day was overcast but didn't look threatening and we lucked out -- no rain while we were there. It was chilly, but we were dressed warmly enough -- in the 50s with only a slight breeze.

The first manor house was built here in the 12th century and was followed by rebuildings and alterations over the centuries. Earliest records of the gardens date back to the 1700s. They grew and thrived until World War I. Though the property remained in the Tremayne family for 400 years, for various reasons, the gardens were neglected following the war. The family now leases the gardens to a non-profit organization whose goal is not only to restore the beauty of the gardens, but to make it a working estate.

The Giant's Head, in the Woodland Walk, was created by local artists Sue and Pete Hill. Though a totally contemporary creation, it was done in the same spirit that Victorian gardeners had in creating features of interest to enhance the enjoyment of the natural landscape.

Although it is getting close to the end of the season for camellias, many of the plants were still blooming profusely.

Garden areas at Heligan range from exotic and wild to formal and utilitarian. These poppies were in the Flower Garden. Other gardens included the melon yard, vegetable garden, apple orchard and the oldest working manure-heated pineapple pit in England (since the 1800s).

Tropical ferns and giant rhubarb plants flourished alongside magnificent rhododendrons in the Jungle -- a tropical paradise in a deep chasm. The rhodies are definitely the stars of the show this time of year. Some of the plants are approximately 150 years old and were brought from Sikkim, Bhutan and Nepal by Sir Joseph Hooker.

Pleased to Be in Penzance

2009-05-06T13:44:00.000-07:00

After 22 hours of sitting, waiting, changing planes, sitting some more, running for trains, and sitting some more we finally arrived in Penzance. I slept for 11 hours and Jack slept for 12, then we got on with life -- starting with a walk downtown. This is one of my favorite corners in downtown Penzance.

I took Teddy everywhere we went and took lots of photos of him. Please check his blog at www.teddietravel.blogspot.com for more photos. The rhododendrons are just starting to bloom and we tucked Teddy onto a branch to take his picture. The result was a bit obscene so Zoe remedied the situation with a strategically placed blossom. Zoe and I picked up a couple more fallen blossoms and tucked them behind our ears. Look at the size of those things -- the blossoms, not our ears!

After dinner we walked down to the beach across the street. It was a bit chilly but still beautiful.

The swans didn't seem to mind.

Spring Has Sprung

2009-05-01T15:16:00.000-07:00

Between my travels and working on the guidebook, I've been slacking on blogging. So here's a quick catch-up -- but please hang with me. I'm going to go silent again for a bit but I promise I'll be back and be better!
Last week I spent time in Knoxville. What a great town! The azaleas and dogwood were absolutely stunning. And we were there for the Rossini Festival -- ate some great Italian food. I didn't actually hear any Rossini (they're doing "Barber" next year) but I did attend a marvelous "Pagliacci." The voices and orchestra were wonderful and the Tennessee Theatre was a beautiful setting.
Knoxville was a real treat. For a town of about 200,000, it packs all the amenities of a major metropolis. Art, music, food, great public spaces, interesting museums -- wow! -- there wasn't enough time to do and see everything and I'd love to go back.

P.S. I'm having serious issues both with photos on the blog and with photos in general. If you have any suggestions -- I'd be most appreciative. I really want that poster picture at the bottom of the blog -- but I can't get it to move!

And when my computer came back from the repair shop, the program that used to pop up when I plugged in my card reader or put a CD with photos in the CD drawer now has disappeared. It had a blue border and choices like "View as a slide show" and "Upload photos to computer" and "Open a folder to view contents." I have no idea what the program's name is -- it just used to appear as if by magic. AND I WANT IT BACK!!!!!! I went to Moto-Photo and put my Knoxville pics on a CD so I could erase my card, but I'm having issues getting them on to the computer. The program I'm using I have to do one at a time and it puts them on the desktop! Since there are over 200 photos on that CD, this is not a good solution!

Am I Blue?

2009-04-15T18:25:00.000-07:00

I am, as the French say, "a woman of a certain age" but I certainly don't feel old. So it constantly surprises me when other people treat me like I am. It happened the other night in St. Louis. And it's sort of a bad news/good news kind of thing. Fearless leader and hostess extraordinaire Mary Hendron took me and two other writers to a blues club -- Beale on Broadway. I must admit that 10:30 is usually my bed time so it did feel a bit odd to be heading out at that time of night (must be an old lady thing). The club was packed and Miss Kim Massie was ruling. The room was not large and we headed toward the back since there were no seats. As you can see, I had a pretty good view -- until the next wave of blues-lovers came in. I always hope for a convention of "little people" because, otherwise, I'm not going to be able to see over anybody. So I squeezed through the crowd and found a spot up by the front door. I stood there quite a while, totally enjoying myself, when the manager saw me, brought a chair and put it at a table (already occupied by another party!) right up in front. Now I was comfortable, happy and I could see. But it also bothered me -- did she do it because I look old? Nah! I'm sure she was just being polite -- nevermind that there were a lot of other women standing up -- and I'll continue to believe that until the next boy scout tries to help me across the street!

Big Hit in St. Louis

2009-04-11T19:27:00.000-07:00

My SATW Traveling Teddy and I made a nostalgic return to the city of his birth! Teddy was born in the Build-a-Bear Workshop -- headquarters, St. Louis. Though we didn't go to the factory, we did go to the BABW in Busch Stadium -- the first ballpark location for the company. Teddy watched while I made a Fredbird (the Cardinals' mascot) and other writers (Bob made a bear and Phil made a big Clydesdale named Clyde and a little one named Dale) and Mary Hendron made their little friends.

Teddy's becoming my alter ego and does things I wouldn't have nerve enough to do -- like asking Albert Pujoles and Mike Shannon to pose for pictures with him. Since he was so bold, I got in the pictures, too.

Teddy also got a new outfit -- a Cardinals' uniform. And he modeled an All-Star shirt. What a little ham. He thinks he's a real celebrity now!

Georgia on my Mind

2009-04-07T19:29:00.001-07:00

Oh, man, life is going way too fast. And I'm traveling way too much. And I'm writing way too little. But enough about me. Oh, I forgot, it IS all about me. So here's what I did last week -- went to Atlanta for the SATW Central States Chapter meeting. Was it fun? You bet.

I'm leaving tomorrow morning for St. Louis -- think baseball, beer and botanic garden -- so this is a quickie with just a couple of the many highlights of the Atlanta trip.

The first full day of the meeting -- with professional development in the a.m. and city tours in the p.m. -- it was drizzly and rainy. And sometimes it just flat poured. We toured the Martin Luther King, Jr. Historic Site and Birthplace and the Carter Presidential Museum. I was so looking forward to that -- only to be told not to bother with notes because they were about to redo everything but the replica Oval Office! The grounds were lovely, though too wet to get out in. Still, you can see from the picture that the azaleas and dogwoods were in full bloom.

The next morning -- 6 a.m. and 53 degrees to be precise -- we took a Segway tour of downtown -- went around the capitol and through the Georgia State campus. I was brilliant -- I wore long underwear under my clothes, put my knit bandeau (which Margo Lakin says looks like I have a maxipad tied on my head) under my bicycle helmet, pulled on my gloves and I was comfortable -- could have gone for hours. Some of my companions got a little cool. That's me -- just look for the lowest helmet in the group!

That night Zoe's and my friend, Jana Keeler, (who used to live in OKC but has moved back to her hometown of Atlanta) had a short visit before our Dine-Around. She suggested picking me up at my hotel and taking me to the restaurant early -- she could eat dinner and I could have a Diet Coke while I waited for the group. We had a great visit and the restaurant -- One Midtown Kitchen -- was a delight. I'm not a calamari fan -- but if I'd had theirs first, I would be and just realize nobody else fixes it as good. So I guess I'm a One Midtown Kitchen calamari fan.

Saturday was a really beautiful day. That was the day we went to Oakland Cemetery where Margaret Mitchell is buried. The photos might have been more effective if it had been rainy that day but still, the blue sky and the gorgeous flowers were awfully pretty. This lion statue, reminiscent of the Lion of Lucerne, represents the dying Confederacy and commemorates the unknown soldiers who are buried in this section of the cemetery.

Sunday I came home. I miss the great bed at the Marriott Marquis. I loved the hotel, loved my room on the 36th floor, but it's good to be home. Now I have to go pack!

Red, White and Blue, Blue, Blue and Leaning to the Left

2009-03-29T12:10:00.000-07:00

Okay, if you don't think that November 4th was one of the greatest days in American history -- or if you still have your W sticker on your car, skip this post entirely. I rarely get partisan on this site but I'm about to, so be warned.

On my recent trip to Brenham, one of the stops on the schedule was at the George Herbert Walker Bush Presidential Library and Museum. Let's see, which would I rather do -- go there or have root canal? Well, I didn't have a choice. So I went and I behaved -- mostly.

I did almost lose it when I saw the sign forbidding photography in the replica Oval Office. I went to the visitors' desk and asked about permission and was sent to the front desk to a young man who was about as interested in my problem as I was in the museum. I explained that I was with the group of writers and usually we were allowed to photograph whatever we wanted. He said he was pretty sure I couldn't. I asked for the p.r. person and he told me he/she had just left. He added that in the two years he'd been there, they'd never made an exception that he knew of. Which just shows what he knows!

I have to insert here that for only $9, the docent would take my picture in the Oval Office, so there was a profit motive going on -- exactly like getting your picture with Air Force One at the Reagan Museum.

I went back to the group, my feathers as ruffled as any righteously indignant hen, and was passing on the news when the museum director walked by. We grabbed him and asked him -- and got permission.

I had Teddy, my SATW traveling teddy, with me and I took lots of pictures to send back to Mrs. Kysar's class. And, trust me, Teddy will be respectful when he blogs about the visit.

On the way out. someone asked me how I enjoyed the museum. We try not to talk politics on press trips -- but usually you know where people stand. (Oh, yeah, "liberal" media, I hear some of my r.w. friends saying -- I prefer to think of it as "educated and intelligent" media. )

I ducked the question but replied that Teddy enjoyed it a lot and went on to describe all the places Teddy had his picture taken -- sitting on GHWB's knee (okay, it was just a statue), in front of the White House play house, reading a book in the children's library, in front of a piece of the Berlin Wall. A voice from the back of the group intoned, "Tonight we must burn Teddy!"

I thought it was pretty funny. Almost as funny as the group member who wore an Obama 08 ball cap and put it on the GHWB statue for a photo!

I really don't dislike President Bush -- he served his country well in many ways. I just wish he and Barbara had been more careful with their birth control!

Bluebonnet Bounty

2009-03-26T18:58:00.000-07:00

I just got back from a marvelous trip to Brenham, Texas, one of the country's coolest towns. It's charming, laid-back, off-the-beaten-track and altogether nifty. And this time of year, surrounded by fields of bluebonnets, Indian paintbrush, evening primroses and wild verbena.

We did a lot of neat things -- and I'll be blogging more about them in the future -- but maybe my favorite was driving the backroads and taking photos.

The only thing I could have asked for was a blue sky. It was mostly overcast -- with an absolute downpour last night. But they really need the rain there so I won't complain too much. I hope you enjoy the photos.

This photo was taken right before an old lady drove up and told us to get off her private road! Our guide from the CVB, Lu, apologized to us and made soothing noises about how she might have had bad experiences with people coming on her property, etc. Frankly, I think she was just a cranky old lady whose clip on earrings pinched and furthermore, I'm pretty sure she's not a native Texan because they are unfailingly friendly and hospitable.